It's a far less efficient way to grind. You're better off with a lighter depth of cut, so the wheel isn't crowded . Keep in mind, the depth of cut dictates the amount of wheel loss when dressing.
Exactly------but that's more an indicator of the wrong wheel hardness than feed rate. The wheel must be friable enough to break down when the individual bits dull, not before. By exceedingly heavy cuts, you crush the wheel prematurely. You think you're gaining ground on the project, but you're just wasting the wheel.
Grinding too slowly will actually generate
Again, that's a sign of the wrong wheel. A light cut doesn't dull the wheel-----if anything--it prolongs the useful life, actually working the wheel instead of reducing it by crushing. I'm no stranger to precision grinding, be it cylindrical, internal, surface or centerless. I've even spent a little time on cutter grinders.
How fast the edge moves across the wheel is a more than adequate indicator of how the wheel is performing. If it won't tolerate a feed of .030" or slightly greater, the depth of cut is greater than it should be. That's been my experience, and has served me well. Understand I'm not timid in my approach to grinding, but I'm wise enough to understand that sacrificing wheel life for the appearance of kicking butt is a false economy.
Do that when the wheel breaks down too quickly and you don't have to worry about anything in your neck. You don't have to have a catastrophic failure to know when you've gone too far, you simply have to understand what the wheel is telling you-----and to be able to discern the difference between a loaded and dull wheel.
Efficient grinding, *if size is critical*, relies on coolant, full stop. It has nothing to do with the size of the part. Ten thou off a piece that's a couple inches thick is going to raise the temperature of the part to some degree----like it or not. There's a reason gage labs are operated in temperature and humidity controlled rooms----because miniscule temperature changes make a difference. The closer you come to duplicating those conditions, the better your chance of achieving your objective. Sure, you can grind dry------and guess at the amount of heat in your work------or even give the part an hour to stabilize. I see no advantage when coolant prevents the problem and allows for faster and cleaner stock removal, with size control left to direct measurement, not chance. I've ground enough to know that doing so without coolant is a mistake, but then I also had to work to specifications. Given a free reign of size, maybe you're right.
Before you jump to conclusions about my comment, yes, I understand that there are exceptions -----just like there are exceptions to using manual versus hand operated surface grinders. I'd rather fight the hydraulics when grinding intricate pieces on an intermittent basis than fight hand grinding on a regular basis. I'm funny like that.