how fast do i dress a white wheel or a blue wheel on a surface grinder
with a diamond dresser,
i would like to know how slow and or how fast to you move the tabl
across on this surface grinder.?
and how many tho's are you dressing off at once?
and with a borazon wheel how fast and how many tho's do you dress it?
on a piece of mild steel.
please give me some of your dressing techniques for this type o
Depends on the wheel condition and what you're trying to accomplish.
Personally, when I spent time on surface grinders, my objective was usually
good surface finish, and often on hardened materials, which grind far better
than do mild steel or other soft materials. At any rate, in order for
your wheel to have a good surface, which helps translate into a good finish,
my policy was always to plow off about .005" per pass, fairly quickly. You
don't have to worry about over feeding the diamond if you're hand cranking,
it will handle what you throw at it with that shallow depth, but the finish
on the wheel will be somewhat coarse. Once you have the full profile of
the wheel re-established, my policy was to take one or two shallow passes,
.0005" at the most, slowly, so the wheel was left with a good surface.
This dressing technique is important to the way I ground and may not be good
advice for you-----so please read on.
While most of what you read will tell you to place your diamond away from
center, so the wheel is pushing it out of the cut should it tip, my policy
was always to dress as near center as possible, but with the diamond held at
such an angle that any motion moved it away. The angle in question (maybe
15 degrees or so) was perfect for turning the diamond to keep exposing a
sharp edge, so it's a win/win situation. My rational, and it's important
for older machines, is if the spindle is no longer perfectly parallel with
the table, you will still dress a surface on the wheel that is. Dressing
away from center will dress a slight, but detectable, angle. That's
important for achieving a good surface finish on parts (no, or minimal feed
marks), particularly the way I ground.
How you grind makes a serious difference. Where grinding is used to
remove stock, shallow plunge grinding and rapid saddle feed are often the
method employed. I don't like it, and for several reasons. The
surface finish sucks, as does wheel life. It works far better to take a
cut of no more than .008" (when conditions demand, or permit) and feed the
saddle slowly (.030"/.050") at the end of each stroke of the table. You
always use the same edge of the wheel by this method, which will hold up
surprisingly well, assuming you have matched the wheel to the work. When
the shoulder breaks down to the point where you're starting to have a rough
finish, it's time to dress the wheel to a full profile and start over, or do
that when you've finished roughing the work at hand and it's time to go for
size and finish. Finish passes, it should go without saying, should be very
fine, no more than a thou, but a few tenths are even better----when you're
working for finish and close tolerance. Unlike a machine that uses various
cutting tools, an abrasive wheel has no trouble removing a few millionths,
and improving finish in the process, so that's part of the secret to
improving surface finish. None of this may make sense to you right now,
but as you develop your grinding skills all of it will-----and it's
Sorry to say, when I left the shop, there was no such wheel on the market,
so I'm not the person to ask. I'll step aside for those that have
experience with them.
Re the borazon wheel, it is important to differentiate between truing
and dressing. If you are using it on a surface grinder then it should
be trued before you can dress it. Most manufacturers recommend either
diamond truing blocks or brake controled truing device. Once trued the
wheel can be fressed with an alox truing stick. Here are a couple of
sites I found on a quick google search.
I did a little surface grinding with diamond wheels on ceramics, It was
a bit of a pain in the ass, especially for short runs. If the wheel was
changed, it had to be retrued to keep the surface finish we were trying
to get (4rms)
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