Dual Saw informercial

Awl --

Billy Mays continues to arise from the dead, and pitches the DualSaw, graveside, along with the Cockney Magnificent, Andrew Sullivan.... TWO hucksters, on one product. wow.......

And here is the Q: all who think the dualsaw is a completely superfluous tool, raise dey hands.....

Ooohhh, OOOhhhhh, Me, ME!!!!

Does anyone here use/own a dualsaw?? Does anyone see any real value to it?

The infomercial, as are all infomercials (esp. those with the erstwhile coked-up Billy Mays -- I mean, aren't all infomercial hosts on coke or speed??), are artful well-choreographed LyingFests, such as never revealing that ""diamond plate"" is just softshit 1/8" aluminum, and that cutting out a sink countertop with ANY circular blade used above-diameter (as they must be used) CANNOT result in the slug just dropping to the ground, etc. Or that it can miraculously "cut all those diff. materials" is simply the gift of carbide, etc etc.

The claim that it is the only saw that can cut backwards says that, well, Billy et al don't unnerstand climb vs. conventional cutting, altho I will concede that making that concept moot with counterrotating blades does make forward/backward cutting more seamless -- to the extent that backward cutting is even an issue. I don't think I've had the need to cut backwards with a circular saw more than twice in 40 years.

But in my mind, the dualsaw is little more than an overly expensive trimsaw, and really just less capable than a regular ole circular saw with a fine-toothed blade.

In fact, you can calculate the net effect of counterrotating blades, pitch-wise: It is just half the measured pitch on one of the blades. So a conventional circular saw with a blade twice as fine as one of the blades on a dual saw should give essentially the same effect. With the advantage of a thinner cut/kerf, since you have only one blade.

More shameful milking of the consumer, social darwinism, imo. BUT, an inneresting mechanical accomplishment, and I wonder if it has any compelling real-world utility.

Inyway, a trip to the dualsaw website will lead you to well of expense..... visavis a $39 71/4" Skilsaw (poss. with ball bearings!), and a $10 fine-toothed carbide blade.

Sed trip will reveal an approx price FACTOR of 5-10 TIMES -- which is ackshooly par for the course for The New Marketing Model (aka The New MindFuck): we are being sold the same ole shit (like vits) for 10x their normal "fair" retail price -- sometimes 30-50x the fair retail price in the case of some vits with kitschy names..... holy shit....

Speaking of kitschy, I realized the world of rational marketing had come to an ignominous end, and The Great MindFuck had begun, when we started giving fuknautomobiles *names*, instead of simple identifying alphanumerics, the way MB, bmw sitll do. A Tundra????? WTF is a fuknTundra????? Armada???? Are we being invaded??? Goodgawd.....

Ed H., help me out here..... I need to be held.....

Reply to
Existential Angst
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Hi Ed,

Ed Huntress Inscribed thus:

Please explain your terminology re:jointing ? its not a description I've heard before. Thanks:

Reply to

Sure. It's the first step in sharpening many kinds of cutting blades, particularly sawblades of many types. It refers to the process of getting the peaks of all teeth set to the same level, so that, after sharpening, they'll all cut the same -- or as close to that as you can get them.

Here's a Google magazine reprint that describes it and illustrates what I was talking about:

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For straight handsaws, you typically use a fine-toothed mill file, unless you have one of those rock-hard Sandvik saws, which requires an abrasive stone.

"Jointing" also applies to setting the peaks of the teeth on the *sides*, as well. These vary as a result of unevenness that results when you set the teeth by bending them over, with your saw-set or punch and anvil jig. For the cleanest cut and for the longest blade life, you joint the blade on it's periphery (for a circular saw) or its top (for a straight saw) and on both sides.

However, you usually joint the sides AFTER sharpening the blade. You just want to touch the sides to cut the peaks down. It's less important on the sides to have them all uniform; you just don't want any sticking out, which will tear whatever you're cutting.

If you're serious about this, it's worth getting a good article or even a book on sharpening. The old Maine boatbuilder, Dynamite Payson, wrote a slim little volume on the subject that is excellent.

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A carefully jointed, set, and sharpened steel sawblade will cut cleaner than all but the very best and most expensive carbide blades. For a while. If you get good at it, it goes pretty quickly.

Reply to
Ed Huntress

hi Ed,

Ed Huntress Inscribed thus:

Thankyou for your explanation. I appreciate the need to ensure that the tooth hight is the same for all the teeth on a blade. I just hadn't heard the term before.

I will check out the url's that you provided.

Much appreciated.

Reply to

You could fix all of the Nation's problems virtually overnight - just replace all the hardon pills with cyanide.

Cheers! Rich

Reply to
Rich Grise

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