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Electricital question

I just got a BIG combo oven and microwave from my daughter. She said she had not used the microwave for a year and a half, and my son in law isn't mechanically inclined, so they got a new one. Oven, MW combo and all.

I pulled the panels and looked for the obvious. The fuse was quite corroded. I pulled it, polished the ends. It's a small Buss type fuse. Cleaned the contacts, too. Reassembled.

Had to trim the door hooks a slight tad, too to get it to release when you push the release bar, but works like a charm now.

I have to put a plug on it tomorrow, and test, don't know if that solved the problem. Could the corroded fuse on the end have caused it to stop conducting electricity? I did a continuity check on it using a 9v. battery and tester, and the reading was right at 9v., so I think the fuse is good.

Just wondering. Don't know what got in there to cause the terminals and fuse ends to corrode. Hope it works tomorrow when I fire it up.

Steve

Reply to
Steve B
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It could have corroded and made things not work, it could have corroded because the oven wasn't in service. It's hard to tell.

Fire it up, and hope you don't _really_ 'fire' it up. That's what I'd do.

Reply to
Tim Wescott

After cleaning and to foreclose the notion of some corrosive environment, I've lightly put a protective coating of clear elastomeric caulk around the in-place fuse, being careful not to infiltrate the contact. No problems have arrived to deter this approach so far. If necessary, later caulk removal should be doable.

Regards,

Edward Hennessey

Reply to
Edward Hennessey

Just don't use the stuff that smells like vinegar -- that's acetic acid you smell, and it'll promote corrosion as good or better than salt water.

Reply to
Tim Wescott

Just a quick thought about Microwave corrosion issues...

In my experience, if you insist that all foods/liquids be removed from the oven immediately upon timer expiration, and always leave the door open until the cavity is dry seems to greatly extend the lifespan of these ovens.

If the cavity is especially wet, wipe it out and run the oven 3 or 4 minutes at power level 'zero'[1]... to run the fan/s sans magnetron.

Erik

[1] I've been told, (but don't know for sure) that running the fan/s alone without the magnetron isn't possible with all microwaves.
Reply to
Erik

Conductive grease is another, probably easier, way, Edward.

-- Some people are like Slinkies ... not really good for anything, but you can't help smiling when you see one tumble down the stairs.

Reply to
Larry Jaques

Speaking of freebies, a friend moved to CA, layed me on to a nice Sony am/fm/cassette/6cd ghetto blaster (big) and a cherry 2003 Toshiba 32" CRT teewee-color too. JR Dweller in the cellar

Steve B wrote:

Reply to
JR North

LJ:

That's a good choice with the added asset of no worry about compromising the contact interface. Inadvertent grease transfer would be the only reservation, aside from not having the lube as handy as a caulk tube.

Regards,

Edward Hennessey

Reply to
Edward Hennessey

Good luck and good hunting!

I suspect you found the issue.

We have a toaster - those things that should last 20 years or more - simple and reliable...

2 years and it is a bit bonkers. Tends to burn everything. Name brand. I suspect a lower cost chunk of metal is getting bent. FA will occur this week - beloved is at her sisters :-) But then there are downsides also :-(

Martin

Reply to
Martin Eastburn

...

A couple of brands of microwave ovens turn on the light and fan if you pull out lightly on the door -- ie opening an interlock but not the door itself.

Reply to
James Waldby

I wonder if it's just condensed goo from cooking fumes.

Cheers! Rich

Reply to
Rich Grise

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