fire proofing shop

On 11 May 2006 11:13:15 -0700, snipped-for-privacy@robustmachine.com wrote:


I used 4'x8' sheets of 24 ga. galvanized steel ordered from a local HVAC shop. I simply nailed the sheets onto the studs. The idea is to prevent sparks from welding coming in contact with flamable parts of the wood frame structure. Steel does the job.
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snipped-for-privacy@robustmachine.com wrote:

Others have recommended drywall. I hate taping/sanding, so in my 2 story garage/shop I'm gonna do plaster. With a skim-coat system, the "lath" is basically drywall (with a blue paper that holds plaster better). You screw it onto the studs just like drywall and tape with a fiberglass-mesh, self-adhesive tape. I plan to apply the skim coat and then smooth it out moderately well, and paint it. No need to sand, and the wall will have a trowelled stucco look to it. A bonus to this method is that plaster is so much harder (and dent-resistant) than drywall with joint compound. Properly smoothed plaster is very hard work, though, 'cause you have to wait until the plaster is set stiff, then *lean* into it with the trowel to get that nice smooth finish. My method requires a lot less work, and very little skill, and the result should look good (at least that's the plan). I should be starting it in about a month.
I also plan to use cement board (Hardi Panel) for the bottom 4' in the garage bays, just to resist abuse.
As for fire resistance, you may notice that many (most?) fire-rated safes use regular gypsum board as the fireproofing material.
Joe
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snipped-for-privacy@robustmachine.com wrote:

A few things I'd add..
Try to limit the number of crevices and corners, dust accumulators are a bigger fire risk than just a flammable wood wall or floor. My welding table has a layer of 1/4" lauan under the grid to keep spatter off the stuff below, Never set it on fire in 7 years of daily use. Wood shavings or other flammable debris will burn much easier.
There are wired smoke detectors available that use a third 'carrier' wire to tie multiple units together. I'd put one in the shop and one in the house if the wiring were practical, thus if a fire starts where you aren't you'll find out faster than you otherwise might. Home depot sells these.
There are flame retardant additives for latex paint, we use the stuff all the time at work. One cup per gallon of paint meets NYC, L.A. and Chicago fire codes for places of assembly, which is probably a lot tougher than what you need. This is what we use. http://www.rosebrand.com/A_Com/showdetl.cfm?&DID=6&Product_ID (48&CATID=9&ObjectGroup_ID"2
Stuart
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wrote:

I recently got accused of not being able to read, because I deliberately ignored part of a request, and gave my own answer.
But did everyone miss the question here? He didn't ask if we had suggestions about how to flame-proof his shop, he asked, "Does anyone have an opinion on the flame retardent paint?"
Does anyone have experience with it? I gave him a tech overview of the product, but I've only ever used it once.
LLoyd
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Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote:

I'll accuse you of it again,

I did give him exactly that and you chose to CUT that part of my answer.

I gave him a review and a link to a supplier, we use it every day, But you cut that too.
Sure I gave him a few other ideas to think of, but I did answer his question, so why were you quoting my post?
Stuart
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Hi
Any information related to the topic is useful as far as I am concerned.
stan
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Thanks for the link, I will see if this is available in Canada.
stan
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We had to coat some columns with a fire retardant paint about four years ago. Got the stuff from Sherwin-Williams, it was a special order and not cheap. Very heavy bodied paint, rather difficult to work with even for an experienced painter.
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