I originally posted this on 11 March 2009, but didn't have the pictures up on the dropbox, due to a cockpit problem. That's solved, and here is an updated version of the posting.
I finally got around to making two sets of flanged half-sleeves that fit nose-to-nose, two to a grinding wheel with the wheel between. This pretty much tamed the vibration. What remains appears to be due to slight warpage of the wheels themselves. I'll dress them true when I have time to drag the grinder outside (so the resulting cloud of grit doesn't coat everything in my shop).
The files are:
While taking the photos, I found that using a textured background helped the autofocus camera a lot. Autofocus cameras are not really designed to focus on shiney metal, and often become confused. This is the cause of many a blurred photograph. With my camera, an Olympus eVolt 510, it is also essential to use Macro mode (the symbol on the camera is a stylized flower).
What also helped a lot was to use a slave flash to fill the room with light, triggered by the pipsqueak flash on the camera. The slave flash is pointed away from the camera at the wall and ceiling to the left of the objects in the photos. The wall and ceiling are painted white.
The trick is to use enough flash power to fill the room without making the item being photographed too bright. This is actually easy to accomplish. One just tries flash levels until it works.
I used an old studio flash (from my photo hobby days) turned down to minimum power, but edison-base AC slave flashes are cheap and common. One just screws them into a ordinary lamp, and fires away.
.What also works is a tabletop size light tent illuminated by the flash. One can improvise serviceable light tents out of white nylon shower curtains and #10 galvanized steel wire. Almost anything that's translucent and white will work.
Joe Gwinn