On Wed, 11 Mar 2015 12:40:30 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
Rust? Must be the salt. Living in CA, I never saw rusted lines.
Um, ouch. Yeah, pass. ;)
Working with old brake lines is a brass coated bitch. Good luck
getting a solid double flare with the now brittle tubing. I much
prefer to work with all new tubing. Perhaps look into the possibility
of annealing it prior to working with it? I haven't heard of it, but
it has been a long while since I was wrenching. <shrug>
Work super clean. Fully steam clean the area prior to working on it.
Use flare wrenches only. Dem tings is TIGHT and round off at the
If you decide to reroute the tube, watch for things like abrading
positions, heat from the muffler, rocks from the tires, etc. Shielding
and padding are both good workarounds, but some lifts catch different
points than you might think, so be aware.
Make sure to use the exact double-flare kit for that line size. I've
seen guys try to use SAE tools on Metric lines and fail every time.
One guy crimped a line so the flow must have been half what is was.
(someone left a note for the service manager) Brakes are a life saver,
so I don't fark around.
Before/After photos, please!
Enjoy! This just in via email:
Facts You May NOT Know:
Researchers for the Massachusetts Turnpike Authority found over 200
dead crows near greater Boston recently, and there was concern that
they may have died from Avian Flu. A Bird Pathologist examined the
remains of all the crows, and, to everyone's relief, confirmed the
problem was definitely NOT Avian Flu. The cause of death appeared to
be vehicular impacts.
However, during the detailed analysis it was noted that varying colors
of paints appeared on the bird's beaks and claws. By analyzing these
paint residues it was determined that 98% of the crows had been killed
by impact with trucks, while only 2% were killed by an impact with a
MTA then hired an Ornithological Behaviorist to determine if there was
a cause for the disproportionate percentages of truck kills versus
car kills. He very quickly concluded the cause: When crows eat road
kill, they always have a look-out crow in a nearby tree to warn of
They discovered that while all the lookout crows could shout "Cah",
not a single one could shout "Truck."
Makes you wonder why you gave me your email address, huh?
Stoop and you'll be stepped on;
stand tall and you'll be shot at.
Many imports have bubble flares instead of the double flares common on
Go get a length of Nicopp or Cunifer (same alloy different companies)
It's great stuff, bends easy, flares easy, doesn't rot. It's more money
than steel but less than stainless which is a PIA to work with.
Not hard to run the line yourself with this stuff.
OR you could go with the precut sections of steel and just couple them
with the correct parts.
I want to know my options before I ask the inspection shop what they
will accept, and have several good examples to show them I can do it.
They trusted me to replace bad ball joints and brake rotors myself and
helped with the Ford's intermittent electrical problem.
It looks like coupling in a new section is possible if I can make good
flares in the vehicle's tubing. So far I've made decent practice ones
on replacement line with the cuts squared and chamfered in the lathe,
to isolate the potential problems. I have a mini tubing cutter that
cuts cleanly and will fit the tight space but I don't want to wear it
dull. Double flaring is turning out to be tricky and error-prone like
Here's an example of mixed reviews on the next step up in tooling:
The vehicle line is straight for several feet in front of the
rust-out, so I could cut out a test section and try different tools
and techniques like annealing on it.
Cunifer is legal in every state AFIK. It is being used on a lot of the
high dollar imports and I've been using it in NY for years, it's in the
inspection regs as legal.
Factory line is soft steel tube, I've never had to do anything other
than the steps below.
To do a good flare isn't hard IF you follow a few steps.
1 CLEAN the outside of the line. Dirt/rust/crud is not helping. Neither
does the coating that some after market line has.
2 cut the tubing square as possible.
3 chamfer it inside and out to eliminate any burrs and clean up the weld
4 REMEMBER TO INSTALL ANY FITTINGS BEFORE YOU ATTEMPT TO FLARE THE
5 Set up the tool and it's adapter properly.
6 LUBE the line and forming tip.
I've made good flares with just about every flare tool I've ever used.
From the cheap chinese ones to my mastercool unit. Some are easier than
others but if you do the steps they work.
This is the one in my tool box
It's basically a hydraulic version of the tool you have.
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