On Wed, 11 Mar 2015 12:40:30 -0400, Jim Wilkins wrote:
I wouldn't splice into the existing brake line, on the general principle
that if it broke once, it'll break again. If you can replace the whole
thing in sections, with all new pieces, yourself, without major
disassembly, then that's to be contemplated.
brakes = safety item
safety item = don't mess around
HAH! This IS the "net". Do you (necessarily) expect any better advice
here than you'd get elsewhere on the net?
(This is not to criticize anyone's advice... only to point out that this
is just as unreliable a resource as anything else you might pick up on
On Wed, 11 Mar 2015 15:17:01 -0500, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote:
Unless you've been watching the group, and you have a notion of who's full
of BS and who isn't. Strangely, must of the folks who answer questions
here give pretty good advise, IMHO.
When I ask for advice on the net I generally pay attention to all of it,
but only follow the bits that make sense after I think about them a bit.
Here's the best, which I think you posted: Don't screw with brake
lines. Do not splice brake lines. Do not jury-rig brake lines.
If you had an accident and they found out you'd done something like
that, I doubt if the insurance company would pay.
Is standard hardware made for the purpose considered jury-rigging?
Today I got a quote of $500 to replace both rear lines with
copper-nickel which is flexible enough to thread through the tight
gaps where the factory lines go. Does anyone have experience with it?
"Copper brake lines are not advised, but Copper-Nickel hybrid lines
are available that won't corrode and will bend easier than mild or
stainless steel lines."
The copper nickel lines are common in europe but almost unheard of
here. The copper-nickel alloy used for brake tubing typically contains
10% nickel, with iron and manganese additions of 1.4% and 0.8%
respectively. The product conforms to ASTM B466 (American Society for
Testing and Materials), which specifies dimensions, tensile strength
and yield strength. Formability and internal cleanliness conform to
specifications SAE J527, ASTM A254 and SMMT C5B (Society of Motor
Manufacturers and Traders). Also, the alloy meets the requirements for
pressure containment, fabrication and corrosion resistance for ISO
4038 (International Standards Organization) and SAE J1047.
I have used the stuff, and it is easier to use tha steel, and is
almost totally corrosion resistant and does not work harden and crack
like straight copper. Straight copper is not only "not advised" but is
specifically prohibited for automotive brake line use - for very good
The stuff isn't cheap, however. I believe one of the most common names
is Cunifer. I see Jeggs is carrying the product now at reasonable
A local auto store had it on the rack at $30 for a 25' coil of 3/16".
NAPA was nearly twice that.
I ordered this to fit the cramped space up beside the gas tank and
hopefully do better than the usual cast yoke and 2-bar clamp flaring
tool I've been practicing with.
Thanks for the help
HEARTBREAKING! Dad and I refurbed Mom's 64-1/2 with the 289 and he
got $6k for it in 1989, before it was a true classic. He surprised me
by handing me ten Benjies, too. "Thanks for the help!" I had done it
out of love, but didn't turn down the money. It would have hurt his
What? You had a mechanical failure and didn't deserve a ticket. I
hope they wrote it off after you showed them that the seller had
Always bear in mind that your own resolution to
succeed is more important than any one thing.
On Wed, 11 Mar 2015 16:27:41 -0400, Ed Huntress wrote:
Actually, I didn't say "don't screw with it". I said don't splice to a
known-bad brake line. If the OP can use approved aftermarket components
(i.e., brake lines and blocks from the auto parts store) to do the job,
more power to him.
I suppose I might think differently if he does it up out of 64 3" sections
of line, with 63 splice blocks -- but replacing one 16' long line with two
8' lines makes perfect sense to me.
On Hondas and Toyotas it is not uncommon to see a perfectly solid
line rot out under a retaining clip (holds line to body) and the rest
of the line is perfect.. In this case, installing a short section can
be effective and perfectly acceptable. Just make sure the line IS
solid, and make sure you do a good jog ov double flaring the line, and
supporting the repaired section when you are done. Generally a good
idea to replace the entire run that is clipped to the floor - but you
can sometimes avoid having to do the twisties on the firewall and
around the rear suspension - or at least the twisties up on the
firewall/inner fender behind the engine.
The lines run from front to rear through a slotted plastic shield
under the body. I sprayed LPS-3 into it and the visible sections still
have their factory green finish. There's a little corrosion where the
retaining clips blocked the spray but the only serious rust is at the
rear behind a solid part of the shield.
On Wed, 11 Mar 2015 18:41:33 -0400, Jim Wilkins wrote:
I guess the key word for me is "workmanlike". A long run that used to be
one piece that's had one section cut out and replaced (making it three
pieces) is "workmanlike" to me. A long run that used to be one piece with
five rusted out spots, that's now in 11 pieces, is not "workmanlike" --
it's "piece of shit" (unless it's a mile long, but there aren't very many
mile-long runs of brake tubing in the average car).
In Oregon you do the work and you drive the car, and things only become an
issue if your brakes fail and you whomp someone. In states that do
inspections you have to please the inspector -- but you probably get to at
least partially hide behind him, too, if he approved the work and your
brakes fail and you whomp someone.
NH has salted roads and yearly inspections. When I told the inspecting
mechanic that the line had failed he showed me a rack of flared repair
sections to fix it, but said do NOT use compression fittings.
I cut out the rust-through and a suspicious spot caused by the
adjacent clip and put in a 20" premade section today, with enough of a
service loop to cut off and redo the flares if they leak. The spliced
line still fits neatly in the clips. I'll be rained/snowed out of
working on it this weekend but at least the line is sealed again.
Be sure to secure that service loop so vibration doesn't come into
play. That gooey cork/tar looking stuff they put around A/C low
pressure lines works well. It's sticky and stays put in heat.
Stoop and you'll be stepped on;
stand tall and you'll be shot at.
The U is only a few inches long and will be restrained at one end
where it exits the plastic shield, after I bleed and leak-test the
line. On the other side the well-braced parking brake cable is
available to support the added mass of the coupler. One of the
mechanics I talked to suggested to pad a replaced line with windshield
washer hose and tie-wrap it to something nearby if duplicating the
factory routing would require too much disassembly of rusted
Neither the factory nor the Haynes manual give much advice on
replacing brake lines. This may be one of those skills you are
expected to learn in person from the shop foreman.
I feel sorry for mechanics who have to learn how to diagnose complex
electronics. The initial drop-out rate at the Army electronic repair
school was quite high during the Volts - Amps - Ohms - Watts section.
I used some clear hose (happened to have some about the right size) at
the clips when I replaced one of the rear lines that runs along the
axle. Cut a slit in it to get it over the new line and then positioned
the slit to be down or on the bottom. The whole area, whole line
actually was liberally coated with wheel bearing grease. I could have
slid it over first and left it whole but I figured the slit would let
moisture drain out.
Not that it matters at the rear axle, but I try to pre-stock and use
plastics known to survive engine compartment temperature like washer
and fuel tubing and radiator hose repair tape for DIY patching. I have
some tie-wraps, heatshrink, silicone-insulated wire and Anderson
connectors in there now to see how they hold up.
(Amazon.com product link shortened)
It's very flexible and rated for 200C. It just barely fits into a 30A
Anderson pin if I wind solder around the strands first to pull them
I just missed capturing 3/14/15 9:26:53 on the clock this morning
because I forgot to shut off the flash.
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