I brought in an outdoor forklift on pneumatic tires. It is not the one
that I bought for $500, but another one.
This outdoor one, runs good, but has nonworking brakes. Quick
investigation shows that brake system is full of air, and that brake
fluid is leaking from the right brake drum (I can see it leaking).
This is a Cat V50B LPG powered forklift.
Am I correct in assuming that a repair is simple, though not
necessarily easy, and likely amounts to replacing or fixing the brake
cylinder os some such?
Likely needs a flush and fill of the entire system
and rebuilt wheel cylinders all around
Check the brake fluid. Is it clean and
clear or does it have a green tinge?
The green is likely algae and needs to
be flushed out. I found algae in the
clutch cylinder on my truck. I flushed
the heck out of the system then replaced
both the master and clutch cylinders.
The parts were inexpensive.
Now the master cylinder is nice and clear.
The clutch works much more linearly and easily.
Recommend purchase a power bleeder.
It will save you a *lot* of time and aggravation.
I spent my life doing it the old way and the
power bleeder makes the job almost a pleasure.
OK on any I've seen.
I'm sure if you look you can find out anything you want/need to know
from Cat--they'll have parts diagrams, spec's, everything except
possibly service manuals online (we're all Green, but same is bound to
hold for yellow).
I agree with Paul.
This sounds like an excellent excuse to get that 1" drive socket
set you always wanted. :)
Buy a box of nitrile gloves, not the dissolving latex kind.
Brake work is really dirty. The asbestos dust is hazardous so
wear a respirator. Nobody will be looking at you. :)
A can of penetrating oil may be useful to soak the wheel cylinder
bolt and plumbing.
Resist the urge to clean the brakes with your air nozzle.
You really don't want anybody breathing that stuff.
Provide yourself *a lot* of ventilation.
Have a few cans of 'brake cleaner', a couple clean parts
brushes and your camera on hand when it is time to disassemble.
After washing down the brake mechanism, take pictures at
various angles at every step of disassembly so that you will
be able to reassemble everything properly. There is no such
thing as too many pictures when repairing brakes, especially
Pay careful attention to the springs and sheet metal
parts you encounter.
The springs really like to 'let go' at exactly the wrong
time, propelling parts underneath heavy work benches, so
stage your tools so that you can get at them comfortably
without having to stretch too much.
If you discover a cracked hose, put the tools down and get
the part on order.
As dpb notes, get the correct info from Cat.
(I see that brake fluid is up to 'DOT 5.1'.)
Turns out Cat isn't quite so easy as Deere--you have to pick a Cat
dealership and access the parts/service web site through their web site
portal. (Deere has open access to the parts books online w/o
registration.) But, while a pita initially, it's bound to be worth the
hassle if you have the machine and intend to do anything at all with it.
2nd on the power bleeder, and any DOT fluid.
I did my truck a couple years ago, It was a stone bitch to get the
drums off, they had rusted in place. Crowbar and BFH time. After
that, it was a standard brake job. They are built just like every
other drum brake. I turned the drums on my lathe, bought the shoes
from hyster, the cylinder rebuild kits from NAPA. Had to build a
custom thingy to adjust the brake shoes, there's no room for a
It should be fairly simple, frozen bolts and inaccessible bolts
notwithstanding. Winnie's right, avoid the dust. Wet down some
newspapers after placing them on the ground below the brake job,
remove the drum, and drop it flat on the paper to shake off dust. Use
a stiff brush (cut-down 2" nylon paint brush works well) to work more
off and then take the drum outside (downwind) and blow the remainder
off. Then have it turned and wash it down with brake kleen before
installation. I usually marked the customer's name and wheel position
on the car into the drum before sending them out, and marked the lug
and drum to put it on the same way if the wheels were spin balanced on
the vehicle. It reduced error.
The person suggesting the 3/4" drive socket set was right. HF has some
cheap sets in both 3/4" and 1".
You might want
both regular and deep (impact!) sockets, a breaker bar (for places you
can't get your impact into), and a 3/4" impact gun. Maybe you can
find another cheap impact gun like the one you sold for a gazillion
percent profit that last time. ;)
Algae grows in water. Water is the bane to brake systems. Replacement
of the cylinders was the way to go.
Howard had the correct answer: Find out from CAT, then use the
suggested fluid. Power bleeders (pressure from the master or vacuum
from the wheel) are good. They allow you to do the job yourself,
Karl, they sell brake spoons, y'know.
yours look like that when you were done?
I cut mine in half when I needed a shorter one for an import truck
with top adjuster once, and it turned out to be very handy for
everything at that length. I most often used the angled side rather
than the curved one.
Knowledge speaks, but wisdom listens.
-- Jimi Hendrix
Which reminds me of something I wish I knew much earlier!
Drums can be a pain to remove even if you have sufficient
gap and they can be impossible to remove without the gap.
You will want to turn each adjuster so that you increase
the gap between the shoes and the inside of the drum
*before* you attempt to remove the drum.
You would poke your adjustment tool through the back of
the mounting plate and rotate the star wheel down a few times.
If your drum has threaded removal holes, you can
then put bolts in them to pull the drum off the axle.
I took off the wheel and the drum. It looks like the brake shoe
cylinder is leaking. I hope that I can find a replacement.
>> 2nd on the power bleeder, and any DOT fluid.
>> I did my truck a couple years ago, It was a stone bitch to get the
>> drums off, they had rusted in place. Crowbar and BFH time.
> Which reminds me of something I wish I knew much earlier!
> Drums can be a pain to remove even if you have sufficient
> gap and they can be impossible to remove without the gap.
> You will want to turn each adjuster so that you increase
> the gap between the shoes and the inside of the drum
> *before* you attempt to remove the drum.
> You would poke your adjustment tool through the back of
> the mounting plate and rotate the star wheel down a few times.
> If your drum has threaded removal holes, you can
> then put bolts in them to pull the drum off the axle.
W/ the caveat it's highly unlikely it will have a DOT 5 (silicone-based)
fluid but be sure to not mix the DOT 3,4, or 5.1 (glycol-based) with a
DOT 5 if it were to be (or vice versa).
Again, place to find out what was recommended/used before going ahead.
Actually, I'd presume there would be at least a reasonable chance
there's an indication on the master cylinder cover or a decal or
something that notes the DOT classification.