He sold it not long after he bought it. And it would have been a bit
of overkill for this, plus he would need enough air to get it moving.
For this, something in the 3/4" to 1" impact would be plenty.
The fun part is picking it up to work on it - you need a special
low-profile high-load floor jack to pick it up, so start looking.
Sometimes there's a place for a 'stubby' bottle jack or a "Toe Jack"
they use to get charter bus Tag Axles off the ground - but be careful,
if you drop that fork truck on your toe...
You are also supposed to have special low-boy jackstands for fork
trucks, but that's easily substituted with good cribbing lumber and a
chunk of 1/2" steel plate on top to spread the load steel to steel.
One Good Thing: This one looks like it has enough ground clearance to
go outside and deal with a little snow without getting instantly
stucked. Once it has working brakes, that is...
--<< Bruce >>--
Lifting the forklift was the easiest part of the job so far. I used a
Simplex 10 ton mechanical jack. Right now the front of the forklift
sits on 4x4s.
I also took the wheel off with a 3/4" electric impact wrench.
I bought a Timken bearing for the wheel, however, not the brake
cylinder yet. Forklift dealers seem to be intent on wasting a lot of
my time. I should have bought one online.
i
On Sat, 05 Nov 2011 08:14:50 -0500, Ignoramus27678
Generally, when a dealer/mfgr wastes your time, it is for one of two
things. One is that they simply don't care a rat's ass whether or not
it is an inconvenience to you. Second is to figure out a way to make a
really hefty profit from you. A distant third is that the person you
talked with is extremely incompetent, though this possibility may crop
up during your stint with #1 or #2, too.
(Cynics Unite!)
--
The unexamined life is not worth living.
--Socrates
On Sat, 05 Nov 2011 08:14:50 -0500, Ignoramus27678
Okay, Gunner, Test Grading time - Fail, or Partial Credit?
I vote for Partial Credit, because he WILL need that Simplex for
working on the rear tires and suspension - no mast on that end.
But if the truck runs, the 'tilt mast back, add cribbing under mast,
tilt mast forward, safety cribbing under chassis' is a lot easier.
(And for 's sake, don't anybody show Iggy that "Self Loading
Excavator into the back of a Dump Truck" footage for a few years. He
might get ideas he shouldn't have yet. That's an advanced level trick
for someone with a few hundred operating hours under their belt.
People like Adam Savage - and he freaked when he first tried it...)
Sometimes there's a valid reason for the 50 Questions - especially on
industrial gear where they've made the same item for 30 or 40 years
straight. They make production changes, so you need to know the
serial number and/or the manufacture date. And if you can get the
casting numbers off the bad parts, that helps too.
Some trucks use the same axle and backing plates for several different
weight ranges - there's one part for 13X2-1/2" brake shoes for the
single-wheel, and a different size wheel cylinder for the 13X5" shoes
on a Dually tired truck. And it's easy to swap the parts around in
the field, so they need to know what you've got.
--<< Bruce >>--
Be _very_ careful there about what you substitute...more often (or at
least as often) than not those will be OEM-specific stuff not sold other
than thru the OEM supply chain. The disadvantage of Green and/or Yellow
or other NamedPaintSchemes, but there's the fact they are what they are
and parts are available for 20-, 30=, maybe even 50 years (and the gear
is still functional after that long).
--
On Sat, 05 Nov 2011 13:07:16 -0500, Ignoramus27678
The pneumatic tire outdoor duty forklifts actually have ground
clearance. A Simplex railroad jack, stubby bottle jack, or other
devices can be used to get them off the ground for repairs.
Nothing "wrong" with using a jack for that, but the Mast Tilt trick
means you don't need any of that.
The solid tire Indoor Only fork trucks do Not have clearance for a
regular jack, if you're lucky you have three to four inches from the
floor - and that's with new tires and full tread. I've seen under two
inches lots of times. A regular trolley jack won't fit under there,
and two tons isn't nearly enough.
Takes a special floor jack with a very short nose to do the pick on
these safely, and you have to be Real Sure the truck is blocked up and
stable before you start taking wheels off and sticking your body parts
in bad places.
Wait till you have a year or so experience on it with a lot of
hours. As you're buzzing one around like it's second nature, and
running the valves and digging holes like you are playing a Video Game
- without even thinking about which valve does what and whether you
just push or pull (or twist and tilt and trigger on a Joystick style
digger) just a flick of the wrist and you're digging.
THEN you can do the self-unload trick. And it'll be fun.
--<< Bruce >>--
On 2011-11-06, Bruce L. Bergman (munged human readable)
Simplex is a mechanical toe jack, they are awesome for moving
machinery. All riggers have them.
I have two, a 5 ton one and a 10 ton one (plus a giant 20 ton Buda
that I never use).
http://www.ebay.com/itm/270822920928
i
On Sat, 05 Nov 2011 10:04:03 -0700, "Bruce L. Bergman (munged human
I do it all the time to load my excavator on the trailer. The
ramps are too heavy for me to carry comfortably at about 50 kg each.
The ramps are long as #2 son uses it to carry cars he soups up for
customers and they have very little ground clearance.
OK, it is only a Yanmar B17, 1.3 tonnes and the car trailer (
flatbed ) is only about 600 mm above ground level.
Drive forward and place bucket on bed, lift front end with bucket
arm and drive forward until tread is on rear of trailer, lower dozer
blade so it cannot accidentally slide off, spin body so bucket is at
rear, raise body with bucket, drive on to trailer while operating the
bucket and blade to help push it on.
I do choose the loading place to get the rear of the trailer as low
as possible, so the Patrol is always higher than the trailer.
Alan
On Sun, 06 Nov 2011 22:54:07 +0800, snipped-for-privacy@iinet.net.oz wrote:
Yes, but that's onto the back of a car trailer without ramps, not
into the back of a full-size dump truck without ramps. Same process,
but the "Angle of the Dangle" is a little more serious, you're at
about 45 degrees as you spin it around.
Be sure to pull in the boom as you go around for the push-off, you
don't want to fall over sideways right about then.
And be real careful about selecting the tracks Forward or Reverse if
you've got the cab spun around to the other end. I'd almost have a
bystander throw chocks behind the tracks if I was doing it for the
first time, so I don't mess up too spectacularly...
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