I have limited experience in metalworking. I am a wood & stone carver
trying to make a tool to "distress" stone. Basically about sixty 3" pieces
of 25ga music wire chucked up in a socket. Then this is used in an
pneumatic impact hammer to texture the stone. My question is, what is a
good way to flatten out the music wire? The tool will work best if I can
take the slight bend out of the wire, (since it comes rolled up in a 6"
It's like a miniature needle scaler. It can have .016", .025", or .035"
wire compared to .125" needles. However, it would be a pain to do a big
surface. It shines in the hard-to-reach or irregular areas. On a forklift,
I have used 6" knot-type cup brushes on a 9" angle grinder then an Impact
brush to get around the bolts and such.
See Roy's blurb:
I think the counterweight and part of the mast assembly will be all I have
to scale. I got lucky in that it is an old Datsun forklift, and the major
components are bolted on as sub-weldments. I have removed them all down to
the chassis and am taking them to a friend for sandblasting. I'm trying to
use the old adage "Work smarter, not harder" these days. <G>
Did I miss something here or are you a poor salesman, Where is the location
of you business and how do we discover what all you sell and where from do
you sell it? I have no problem with people selling here as long as they put
up with small scale people like me.
no neat sig line
Uh, try the obvious, eh? Email address is @ohiobrush.com, that might be
a clue to the clueful. 15 seconds later, here we are:
Look at the bottom of the page for the impact brushes.
You're wanting to straighten the wire, rather than flatten it. When wire is
spooled in production or produced in loose coils, it's processed thru a
series of ball bearing assemblies that are situated in 2 staggered parallel
rows (maybe 20 per side).
I've seen lots of MIG welding wire transferred from large (approx. 3 ft
spools) to the smaller spools. If the arc in the wire isn't set properly,
the wire will unspool when the end is cut loose from the spool.
The ball bearings that were used to straighten and reset the wire to other
sizes were about 1/2" OD, and had a shallow groove ground in the face of the
These bearings were adjusted inward to remove the set of the wire. This is
similar to a sheet roll, where the arc is formed as the the ODs of the rolls
change the sheet from flat to round. Instead of forming an arc, the parallel
rows of bearings remove it.
In working with the relatively short lengths of music wire that's not
supplied on a spool, you could improvise some sort of holder that you could
load the wire on, maybe 2 discs with a hub (or pins) that would be able to
rotate on an axis.
The straightener wouldn't necessarily need to be ball bearings, depending on
how much wire you want to straighten.. it could be dowels or other parts
that could be adjusted in a straight line, and fine adjusted for the ODs to
slightly overlap (over the wire's outside dimension).
Most hobby stores carry 3 foot lengths of music wire, no coiling
involved. The K&S wire is sold in tubes of 4 for most sizes, I use then
for clock pinion replacement. Seems tubes of 4 wires cost around $1.70
Kevin Austin wrote:
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