Good vertical bandsaw?

I wasn't able to find a decent bench top bandsaw. I need to be able to cut metal to shape a part. Horizontal / vertical bandsaws seem too
half-assed to cut metal accurately.
Rules of the game: 115v, 20A. Metals range from aluminum to cast iron to CRS to 4140
Motor about 1/2HP? SFM below 100 Make of sawblade? May use one blade for a specific material. Changeable speeds?
Price, I'd love 0$, and they'd ship it for free, but $300 to $500 is OK if it works well, cuts square, and lasts.
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wrote:

Where are you at?
Ive got a 18" Walker Turner and an 18" DoAll that I might sell/swap/
Both have 2 speed gear boxes and variable speed drives for metal up through wood\
Btw....such saws normaly start off at $1800, used
Whatcha got to trade?
Gunner, Bakersfield, California
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Wisconsin. And I sold my F-150 back in 2004. Your saw won't fit into my Ford Focus' trunk.
Gunner wrote:

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wrote:

No..nor fit on the roof.
Bummer
Gunner

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I can hear the crumpled beer can sound thinking of the Do-All being lowered on my roof.
Gunner wrote:

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wrote:

Got a laugh this afternoon at one of the local thrift stores, gal had bought a framed picture about 3 x 5 feet and was trying to fit it into a Smart Car. When I left, she had it in a garbage bag and was trying to tie it on top. Gerry :-)} London, Canada
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I missed the Staff meeting, but the Memos shoed that Gunner
-0800 in rec.crafts.metalworking :

    Oh, it will fit on the roof.
    Might cause some incidental scratches and dings, but it will fit on the roof. Not saying the roof will hold it up where people think it ought to be, but it will fit on the roof.

    , dude.
tschus pyotr -- pyotr filipivich "Quemadmoeum gladuis neminem occidit, occidentis telum est. " Lucius Annaeus Seneca, circa 45 AD (A sword is never a killer, it is a tool in the killer's hands.)
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You might want to look at the Wilton saws. I know Wilton is good with the quality, and in my last Rutland Tool catalog, they had several smaller models alongside their larger floor models (I'd personally love to have a 20" roll-in, but alas, no more $$ in the budget nor room in the shop). Looking at their website, their smallest saw is a 14", 1HP, 110V, with both metal (39-278 SFM) and wood (3300 SFM) speeds. I think that you'll find that anything smaller than a 14" vertical bandsaw is going to be far too flimsy for serious metal cutting. You can stick it on a mobile base and it'd be plenty portable, much better, IMO, than heaving one on and off the bench. Also, Enco and others sell dedicated metalcutting blades for the 14" saws, unlike the smaller machines, for which you'll need to use woodworking blades or weld your own. At just under $1000 (Enco: http://tinyurl.com/yr2bwk ), it's probably going to be one of your best options.
Hope that helps ww88
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On sale! Only $998!!!
woodworker88 wrote:

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Wilton 820x series.
Metal (SFPM) ....... 39, 57, 78, 107, 142, 196, 278 SFPM
Louis Ohland wrote:

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Louis Ohland wrote:

I think you'll need to buy one of the inexpensive 14" wood cutting bandsaws and repower it with additional belts / gearing to a metal cutting compatible speed. I think all the "real" vertical metal bandsaws will be real $$$.
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Has anyone installed different pulleys to do that?
Pete C. wrote:

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Louis Ohland wrote:

I seem to recall reading at least one magazine article on doing just that, and seeing a few web sites with the same.

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Pete C. wrote:

This subject comes up frequently. There are limits to the power that a belt/pulley can transmit - the data is in Machinery's Handbook.
Grant
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Jet, Powermatic, and Wilton are the same company. I also thought I saw a spare part for the Jet bandsaw that adds additional pulleys (making it a wood/metal bandsaw). However I cannot find the info on this...
Perhaps it was Delta. A few years ago I had a printed product manual. This was SOOOO much easier to use.
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Bruce Barnett wrote:

Please don't confuse the modern marketing term "wood/metal" on the Jet or Grizzly saws with a true metal cutting bandsaw. Those are wood cutting bandsaws with speeds something like 3000/2100/800, with the 800 sfm speed being for cutting hardwoods. Some sharp-eyed marketing puke said "Hey! At 800 cfm you can cut some aluminums - so let's say it also cuts metal!"
But you want one with several speeds in the range 30-300, as well as 750-3000 for wood.
GWE
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Delta has the retro kit. I have the 14" wood saw and had considered the option - but I got a nice horizontal saw instead.
Why not put a 3 phase and a box to control it for speed.
The real issue is throat size - how large is a plate to be cut ? or how long a rod or channel is ? That might be the limiting factor.
Martin
Martin H. Eastburn @ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net TSRA, Life; NRA LOH & Patron Member, Golden Eagle, Patriot's Medal. NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member. http://lufkinced.com /
Louis Ohland wrote:

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Most of the stuff will be either rod, angle, or small (maybe 6") stock. No engine blocks.
Martin H. Eastburn wrote:

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...
...
SOME of the 4x6 bandsaws are OK. Mine will cut 1/2" thick by 6" wide steel the hard way, and its adjustable blade guides can be set to cut square within about 0.005" per inch. It could probably be set more closely but I use it to cut structural steel outdoors on uneven ground and the frame twists.
Jim Wilkins
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I have a bandsaw that is belted down with a manufactured stand. I don't suggest this but include this to show how it works and what I think are the weak points.
http://metalworking.com/Dropbox/bandsawbelt.txt
http://metalworking.com/Dropbox/bandsawbelt.jpg
The text file is below
These are some photos of an old Grob belt reduction base that is mounted under my 14" Delta bandsaw to reduce the blade to metal cutting speed.
The motor has a 2 1/2 in pulley and reduces the speed through two 10"-2 1/2" combination pulleys finally ending in an 8" pulley on the saw.
The motor mount is not original but is probably of a similar design.
The right side of the photo shows the pulley adjustment mechanism.
It drives the saw at about 120 fpm and is not really adjustable. I could drop out one 10" pulley and get it to run about 500fpm but that's about it.
It is driven by a 1/4 hp motor. I can and do stop the blade regularly.
The problem is not the motor, but the last reduction. At that belt speed (87 fpm) the pulley can only transmit .05 hp or so. If I were designing this from scratch, I would use a chain drive at this point.
Although, if were designing this from scratch I think I would use a gear reducer.
Paul K. Dickman
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