George McDuff contacted me and asked that I post the following message to this thread because he does not currently have write access to the newsgroup. It's rather lengthy so if he went to the trouble of typing it all, posting it is the least I can do. :-)
Since the original message appears to no longer be on the server I'm just adding it to the last message in the thread. His message is below my sig. Since I'm just the messenger there is little point in replying to me. :-)
Best Regards, Keith Marshall snipped-for-privacy@progressivelogic.com
"I'm not grown up enough to be so old!"
P.S. OE seems to be screwing with the format and won't let me change it. Hopefully it'll end up corrected as it's posted. :-/
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Keith:
I don't have write access to the RCM news group. Please post to the
faceplate thread is you think it would be helpful.
GmcD
======================================
Faceplates
The school purchased the assets of an other institutions technology
program which included 4 4900 series Clousing lathes.
We were able to get three of the operational with one hangar queen for
spare parts.
Limited numbers/types of chucks were included, but no face plates.
We are fortunate enough to be in the oil patch so our local fastener
supplier had 1-1/2 X 8 hex nuts and threaded bar in stock. As I recall the
nuts were about $3.00 each. I purchased 4 of these for spindle thread
protectors.
As our need for at least one face plate became apparent, these were priced
and found to be very expensive. We inquired at several of our local metal
dealers for 9 or 10 inch MS rounds about an inch thick. These were
available but were not only expensive but would be flame cut to size making
them difficult to machine.
Wood lathe face plates were considered, but examination of those on the
lathes in the wood shop indicated these were too light for metal lathe use
and some were cast aluminum.
A look in my 15th edition of Machinerys handbook (page 1776) indicated
that American Standard Cast 125 pipe flanges were 9 inches in diameter for
the nominal 4 inch pipe and 10 inches in diameter for the nominal 5 inch
pipe. American Standard 250 Standard Cast pipe flanges were 9 inches in
diameter for 3-1/2 nominal pipe and 10 inches in diameter for 4 inch
nominal pipe.
Blinds or blank off plates were priced at our local pipe supplier and
were found to be surprisingly inexpensive, around 30$ for the 125 series
which is nominally 15/16 thick which seemed adequate for our uses. The 250
series is about 1-1/4 thick and slightly more expensive. After some
measurement, we purchased a 125 series 5 inch blank off plate for about 30$.
A spare 1-1/2 X 8 nut was threaded on the spindle nose, faced and
counterbored to match the back side of the chuck mounting holes. It was
then reversed on the spindle, faced and heavily chamfered to allow adequate
weld penetration.
The plank off plate had been faced machined on both sides so it was not
difficult to pick up the center within a 1/16 or so. We scribed a circle
the same size as the across the flats dimension of the 1-1/2 X 8 nut (as I
recall 2-1/4 diameter). By using a square against the sides of the nut it
could be positioned quite accurately. A piece of 1 inch square stock was
drilled to take 3/8 bolts and this was used to clamp the nut into position
using some long 3/8 bolts and some big washers through the flange holes.
The school is fortunate to have a superb welding instructor with every
certificate I have ever heard of and he agreed to tig weld the nut to the
blank off plate. I am not sure what he used for filler, but it was a
beautiful weld job.
The assembly was allowed to air cool overnight.
We are fortunate to have a sand blast cabinet, and the weldment was
thoroughly cleaned. When mounted on the lathe it would clear the ways but
would contact the saddle at a few locations [The OD of the blind was not
machined.
The 1 inch square bar used to clamp the nut in position was recycled by
milling the thickness down until it could be clamped in the lathe square
turret, drilling a 5/16 diameter hole to accept a 1/4 square lathe tool,
and drilling/tapping a 10X32 hole to clamp the lathe tool. The location of
the 5/16 hole was eye-balled to put the lathe tool on center.
Considerable chatter was experienced when taking anything but very light
cuts, but with patience and a very sharp carbide tool the OD was machined
to clear the front part of the saddle so that we could get a tool directly
mounted in the square turret in far enough to face the face plate.
The faceplate was then center drilled to eliminate the tit in the middle
and allow inside-out machining with a right hand lathe tool. (See comment
below on this)
Two problems surfaced at this point. (1) Some areas were harder than the
hubs of hell -- we should have put the weldment in a box full of lime or
mica to cool. (2) Selection of feeds and speeds was difficult because of
the large change in SFM between the center of the face plate and the
outside edge.
After several false starts, a special tool grind seemed to work the best.
From a suggestion in an old shaper book a tool was ground from M2 HSS with
about 45% side rake and a large (c.2 inch) nose radius. This gave a
shearing action with good surface finish across the entire cut with a fine
feed and .002 to .005 depth of cut using Tap-magic spiked with Castrol
moly disulfide concentrate for lubricant. The chips came off very tightly
curled.
Because we do not have a T-slot cutter, we decided to use tapped holes.
Machine Shop Methods by Lorus J. Milne has a suggested circular/radial hole
layout for a drilling table [p238] which was also shown for a lathe face
plate [p64 & 65]. After some research and consideration of the size parts
we can machine on a 4900 series lathe, we decided to use 3/8 X 24 hold
downs. Fine threads were selected because of the easier tapping and
resistance to loosening because of vibration. It was found worthwhile to
counterbore the Q tap drill [0.332] to 3/8 to a depth of a light 1/8 or
about 2 threads. This not only helped start the tap but also avoided
having the threads stick up above the surface after tapping or applying
considerable clamping force.
Because we had center drilled the face plate, we had to drill through, make
a plug and re-establish the center to accurately lay-out the holes.
This face plate has been very satisfactory, and we are planning on making
two more as student projects.
You can get a reprint of Machine Shop Methods [and many other very helpful
and/or entertaining reprints] from
formatting link
for $18.95 +
S/H.
I find the Lindsay reprints, stressing one-off machining with minimum
attachments and maximum imagination/initiative as was traditionally the
case, to be much more useful than the current books stressing high tech /
high volume manufacturing, for introductory machining instruction and the
home shop machinist.
George McDuffee
1401 Boyd - Apt D
Borger TX 79007
snipped-for-privacy@texasonline.net