hand-held electric drill for bigger drills in steel

Hi everyone
I searched and found these electric drills...
Metabo BDE 1100
Milwaukee HDE 13 RQD
Milwaukee B2E 16 RLD
These all have stirrup-like handles in line with the drill-bit and
specialise in power and control at lower drill revs (and no hammer
action - they are for metalworking only).
Reason for asking - my situation
I've now drilled hundreds of holes 11mm [7/16th-inch) holes in 8mm
[5/16th-inch] thick angle-iron.
With many more to go...
And now painfully (literally!) aware - classic "electric drill" with
pistol-shape is good for carpenters - where need a light touch. But
not for metalworking! Need to easily be able to apply the large force
needed to get spiral swarf formation with a twist-drill.
So - question - What is the best drill for heavy-duty metal-drilling?
Experience tells me:
* The handle must be in line with the drill-bit, so the applied force
goes straight down the bit
A good strong depth-stop close to the drill would make life much
easier so don't have to worry about the break-through moment
The Milwaukee HDE 13 RQD looks specifically designed for this exactly
this job in commercial work - where can guarantee there is another
higher-revving electric drill on the job for piloting. Is lighter
than the 16RLD and shorter - shows higher torque and is presumably
more robust, with no gear-change. Have I got this right?
Presumably also - as it has few other uses, with slow revs and no
hammer action, it isn't "desirable" outside the workplace...!
By the way - working in a team of two, one piloting at 5.5mm
[7/32nd-inch], the other following at tapping size at 11mm
[7/16th-inch] then the one on piloting threading with the tap-running
tool. Always up on a scaffolding.
What is the advice from all you folk out there?
Richard Smith
Reply to
Richard Smith
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You want this one:
Too small? :-))
Reply to
Nick Mueller
Whatever drill you use, use a pushbar with it. A leaf from a spring works very well- cut a notch in one end and stick the leaf through the drill handle, catch the notch in a chain that's hooked to the work and bear down on the free end of the leaf. No pilot hole required, save heaps of time and effort.
Reply to
Personally I'd go for a magnetic based drill, far more control and an assurance that you are drilling at right angles. I bought a fairly worn out one many years ago and re-built it with new guide rods and bearings and wouln't be without it. Doesn't get used very often, but when it does it makes the job so much easier. Similar one here:
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Mine has a 2 MT spindle with an adaptor for rotabroach style cutters, which means I can use normal taper shank drills in it. I have also got a 2MT / 1/2" chuck for it so I can use parallel shank drills. It also has two (fairly slow) speeds so can drill whacking great holes using rotabroaches. I got it to drill dozens of holes accurately in RSJs that are used as mounting frames for commercial washing machines in my Launderettes - a job that had to be done overnight with no errors so we could re-open again in the morning with new machine fitted - well worth the money.
Reply to
Andrew Mawson
A nice feature about all Metabo drills is the safety clutch. I don't think Milwaukee makes one available at all. A younger guy at the place I used to work did some serious damage to the stringy tissues in his wrist using a similar drill from Makita (no clutch).
I have a Metabo BE 1020. A major difference (other than the handle configuration) between the BDE 1100 and the BE 1020 is the electronics. The BDE 1100 is simple "V" variable speed. Basically as the load increases, the drill's RPM will decrease. The BE 1020 has "VTC" which keeps the RPM at full under full load. The speed is adjustable via both a dial on the top of the tool, and the trigger (dial is master speed control, sets max).
The BE 1020 is a better all-around drill as it has a fast high gear, and a sensible low gear. The BDE 1100 is slow and slower, basically useless for smaller bits.
Metabos are nice tools, but don't expect them to be as rugged as Milwaukee. German tools are built like German cars - not to be abused! Enjoyed only!
BTW, I wouldn't trade my BE 1020 for the world. A fantastic tool, and a joy to use every time (kinda pricey though).
Reply to
Robin S.
Next time figure out how to build the thing so you can punch the holes!
Richard Smith wrote:
Reply to
Grant Erwin
Millwaukee offers a side handle. Have you got a hand to spare on that scaffold?
Reply to
Richard Smith wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@Richard-Smiths-Computer.local:
The milwaukee will do you good service, but I strongly suggest that you use the T handle along with the D. Only holding on to the D when a drill with that much torque hangs is going to get you to surgery to repair your wrist. I've an old IIRC Craftsman (may be BD...can't remember but it's ancient, circa early 1950's or so) all metal 950 rpm 1/2 HP drill with the D handle. I don't use this drill without a pipe. It will literally spin you if it hangs! (It has a place on top to screw in a standard piece of 3/4" black iron pipe for a T handle..why can't you find that feature today?)
Reply to
I agree.
The safety concerns alone justify the use of a mag based drill whenever possible. They are expensive but tend to be commercial quality and usually are a lifetime purchase. I suspect that a tool retailer will be willing to rent you one with the option to buy, and once you have used (a correctly sized) one you will understand. The time savings alone of not needing a pilot hole could justify it alone, but the real issue is safety.
Good luck,
Reply to
As I wrote above the real answer is a mag based drill, but for restricted access or poor base mount location, I agree that the second best is a side handle drill with a place opposite to mount a LONG piece of 3/4" pipe and two operators. My D handle is removable and I seldom ever mount it.
Good luck,
Reply to
My personal favorite for a situation like this is to use a dead man. You can make a dead man that will clamp to the work and has a screw in it to push the drill (if it's angle iron like you say then there's probably not enough metal for a magnetic drill to work properly). If made properly the drill handle can ride against the post of the dead man so there's no torque on your hand.
Here's a pic of me using a dead man to drill 5/8" holes in the frame of a truck. I drilled 230+ holes in that frame some of them through 1-1/8" of steel. My drill has the jack screw built in but I've seen them where the screw was in the dead man.
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Reply to
Wayne Cook
Never drill when you can punch.
Nitto makes some very nice electric/hydraulic punches- just spot it where you want it, pull the trigger, and bam, the hole is done.
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Reply to
one mounted on a stand..its called a "drill press"
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Reply to
MadDog sez:
"> Millwaukee offers a side handle. Have you got a hand to spare on that
Yeah! I knew a guy once that was working on the inside of a grain elevator with one of those. The bit hung up and the handle slapped him in his "appendages". The magnetic seperator found the drill before they located his body.
Bob (gotta watch those handles) Swinney
Reply to
Robert Swinney
"Spare hand" -- Yes - always - we at least have that going for us.
Handle - saw "huge drill" electric drills have handles at opposite sides, so tried using the handle of the pistol-grip drill sticking out vertically - then used the drill "on its side" - which helped a lot. For sure the handle was flexing - but if this the equipment the employer provides, that's the way it has to be.
Controlled the break-through.
But still not easy to lean onto the drill enough to give spiral swarf generation.
Rich S.
Reply to
Richard Smith
As Wayne Cook later comments - there isn't really enough metal for a magnetic base drill.
However - not put it to the test. See later - no twist-drill bits.
There are mag.base drills on site and I use them. They only mount shell-cutters, but if they were the answer I'd blag use of a lathe and make some mild-steel mountings and braze twist-drills into them
Yes I'd love to be just turning the feed with one hand and spraying on lube with the other.
Rich S.
Reply to
Richard Smith
errors so
I bet that the 'shell cutter' (rotabroach) holder fits using a Morse Taper - look at the shaft - is there a cross hole that is oval or rectangular for the ejector drift - I bet that there is !
Reply to
Andrew Mawson
Hi Grant
Don't get to have a say in the architect's decisions! For sure it is a good line of thought - how would you redesign the job?
I can use an ironworker - I agree it is a nice thought! (punch the holes)
Rich S.
Grant Erw> Next time figure out how to build the thing so you can punch the holes! >
Reply to
Richard Smith
This is a job that is difficult to properly and cost effectively tool for. The 7/16" thickness and 7/16" hole is just barely enough to require a heavy drill and it is the high number that (as you have found) is the real issue. Set up time is a big part of the cost. You have not said whether you must drill from the inside or the outside of the angle.
Any thickness problem mounting mag drills can usually be solved by clamping a thick piece of steel under the mag bearing surface.Mounting the mag to drill from the inside of the angle can create more difficult problems depending on the angle leg length and this may require fabing an adapter. The weight of a mag drill is usually considerable and in any event a safety chain must always be used.
I have no experience with portable punches but would definitely suggest you research availability and cost, they will be fast and you say you have a lot to do. I do not know if they will give you a hole that is correct or constant size for proper tapping.
For an expensive tool to be cost effective it must be versatile and able to be used on future jobs, if not then you should be able to write it off as an expense of the job you have. Renting may be a good alternative, especially if 'rent with option to buy'.
Good luck, please give us a report.
Reply to
Sounds like an application for a Cole drill. Gerry :-)} London, Canada
Reply to
Gerald Miller

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