hand-held electric drill for bigger drills in steel

Richard Smith · 2007-05-31T20:46:12+00:00

Hi everyoneI searched and found these electric drills...Metabo BDE 1100Milwaukee HDE 13 RQDMilwaukee B2E 16 RLDThese all have stirrup-like handles in line with the drill-bit andspecialise in power and control at lower drill revs (and no hammeraction - they are for metalworking only).Reason for asking - my situationI've now drilled hundreds of holes 11mm [7/16th-inch) holes in 8mm[5/16th-inch] thick angle-iron.With many more to go...And now painfully (literally!) aware - classic "electric drill" withpistol-shape is good for carpenters - where need a light touch. Butnot for metalworking! Need to easily be able to apply the large forceneeded to get spiral swarf formation with a twist-drill.So - question - What is the best drill for heavy-duty metal-drilling?Experience tells me:* The handle must be in line with the drill-bit, so the applied force goes straight down the bit* A good strong depth-stop close to the drill would make life much easier so don't have to worry about the break-through momentThe Milwaukee HDE 13 RQD looks specifically designed for this exactlythis job in commercial work - where can guarantee there is anotherhigher-revving electric drill on the job for piloting. Is lighterthan the 16RLD and shorter - shows higher torque and is presumablymore robust, with no gear-change. Have I got this right?Presumably also - as it has few other uses, with slow revs and nohammer action, it isn't "desirable" outside the workplace...!By the way - working in a team of two, one piloting at 5.5mm[7/32nd-inch], the other following at tapping size at 11mm[7/16th-inch] then the one on piloting threading with the tap-runningtool. Always up on a scaffolding.What is the advice from all you folk out there?Richard Smith

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Private 19 years ago

Since you have considered all the other options, here is another way that may work for you with some thought.... if you are on good concrete and with good std construction scaffold and good rollers and with an extra level mounted above the work floor, you may be able to solidly mount a heavy drill to a frame which can then be secured to the upper scaffold frame with nylon ratchet straps or clamps and adjusted for height. Then just use a couple more ratchet straps to go around the angle (I assume there is 1/4" min clear) and just pull the scaffold forward. I suggest you sweep the roller track on the floor first.

alternatively if the rolling surface is poor... Fab the frame so it is vertically adjustable and allow it to slide on the leveled scaffold floor.

Do what it takes to complete the job safely. Good luck.

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Andrew Mawson 19 years ago

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Richard,

I've not followed all the posts in this thread so maybe your application will preclude my suggestion, but have you considered using a Spit powder charge nail gun to pin the elements together:

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I was skeptical, but having one of these beasts am amazed how they fire fixings through quite thick steel. No drilling or tapping at all! The hire places such as HSS have them.

AWEM

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Richard Smith 19 years ago

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Hi Andrew

No I hadn't considered one of these! It looks fearsome. One that shoots nails into wood is bad enough! I fear to think of one which would shoot through 8mm of steel!

Might be difficult to apply as two ~8mm thick plates standing about

40mm apart with a pre-drilled hole passing through both, designed to take a bolt - which is fastenered to the angle. The one you point to

- it's more like nailing but for steel, isn't it?

I'll ask about one of these and look out for instances of its use.

Richard Smith

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Andrew Mawson 19 years ago

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One of the 'nails' that they can fire is actually a stud - as you say awesome. I got mine to fix cladding to the rsj uprights of a steel barn I'm buying. First saw the on 'Grand Designs' where a chap was pinning steel plates to structural steel in a new roof construction in Edinburgh.

AWEM

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Richard Smith 19 years ago

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&*^%! Wild but it makes sense. The metal flow over the "nail" would grip it, giving a very secure fastening. And with the metal cladding being thin, with flexure it can't magnify forces with leverage and would tear with a lowish force, absolving the mount of need to take huge forces anyway. I'll definitely look out for examples of this being used. Thanks Rich Smith

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John Joseph 19 years ago

Something like this should do the trick --

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(Wish I'd thought of this)

Regards

John

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JohnM 19 years ago

Richard, did you see my post about a pushbar? It's really the approach to this job, it'll work better than anything else I've see suggested.

John

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Richard Smith 19 years ago

John - yes, I did see this.

You suggested to me

"Whatever drill you use, use a pushbar with it. A leaf from a spring works very well- cut a notch in one end and stick the leaf through the drill handle, catch the notch in a chain that's hooked to the work and bear down on the free end of the leaf. No pilot hole required, save heaps of time and effort."

Come to think of it - would work perfectly. Carefully drill and tap the first hole then screw in a bolt with a loop, attach your lever and the rest would go well.

And works for this case of single-sided access (masonry behind angle-iron).

Must try this if on similar job. There is a D-handle (spade-handle) drill at the yard - found one.

Thanks again - best wishes -- Rich Smith

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JohnM 19 years ago

I generally use a piece of light chain with a hook on one end. If you can hook the hook someplace it's easy, otherwise you can tack the other end of the chain to the work. The leaf-spring suggestion was for something big, a piece of 1" square tube would likely serve for what you're doing.

A prybar with a fixed fulcrum and a hook on the end of it to catch a chain can really be the s*it too. Works like a half-clamp but is more versatile, and it's easy to put a couple thousand lbs. of pressure on a spot. Affix the chain to the work with a single tack- rock the link you're tacking slightly toward the side you're hitting with the welder, then when you put tension on it you're giving a little tack the greatest advantage. Slap the chain toward the tack when you're done and it'll pop right off.

John

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Richard Smith 19 years ago

I'm picking up your wavelength here - must start to think like this. Mild steel is totally forgiving stuff - for sure can temporarily tack bits on and so on without a concern in the world. Thanks again - really appreciate your input. Rich

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RogerW 19 years ago

This all brings back memories (bad) long ago of drilling with a low speed, high torque hand-held drill in limited space. The bit caught, the drill twisted and jammed my hand in the limited space so I couldn't let go of the trigger. Yikes. Had to reach in with the other hand and pull my finger off the trigger. Lucky I didn't get badly hurt.

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