Harbor Freight for the Strategic Shopper

"Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney" wrote in message news: snipped-for-privacy@earthlink.com...

put on my plaid long sleeve shirt, dark glasses and camouflaged cap, went in and bought a nice drill. Then went back to the car, changed shirts, took off the cap and sunglasses, went back in and bought a nice saw. Then went back out, took off the shirt and went back in my tee shirt and a floppy hat and bought a tarp. I still had coupons but ran out of clothes.

Tomorrow is the expiration date. I plan to wear bicycle shorts underneath some overalls, a raincoat and a poncho.

"Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney" wrote in message news:VvSdnajn snipped-for-privacy@earthlink.com...

put on my plaid long sleeve shirt, dark glasses and camouflaged cap, went in and bought a nice drill. Then went back to the car, changed shirts, took off the cap and sunglasses, went back in and bought a nice saw. Then went back out, took off the shirt and went back in my tee shirt and a floppy hat and bought a tarp. I still had coupons but ran out of clothes.

underneath some overalls, a raincoat and a poncho.

Anybody know if thrift stores still carry wigs?

I keep looking at that compound sliding miter saw that goes on sale for $89. I have a miter saw and a radial arm, but that compound sliding miter saw would be handy on occasion. I just now note they have 3 versions. With some differences in miter capacity and bevel cut capacity and RPM. It seems the laser guide has the least capacity. I'm glad I noticed this, I don't want to see the low capacity unit go on sale and me jump on it then find out the limited capacity.

We just recently got a store opened in our city. My wife went shopping there and bought some wheels for a cart, she even got the free multimeter as a gift for me! Mikek

No need for clothes changes. I take handfuls of coupons in every time I shop there, plus I have the Inside Track Club card. For redeeming multiple 20% coups, I do try to change checkers, though, JIC.

What saw and what drill? I may take you up on that bet.

One caveat on the drills. They don't like to do low-speed hi-torque work. Mine smelled really bad the first time I did that, but it's still kicking.

Another thing, check the brushes are seated on any replaceable-brush motor you get from them. One brush on a brand new chop saw didn't fare well and it smoked the motor on the third, harder cut.

Izzat you, frnak?

I find that trying to buy the tools when on sale is an even better deal, usually 35-50% off. I toss a single 20-percenter on top for good measure, and they usually fly. The downside is that I get daily emails from HFT. I did get the $299 airless paint sprayer for $135 that way, though. And the $299 12" SCMS for $159. And the $229 3hp (searz) compressor for $143. Everything goes on sale at least once a year, so I can usually afford to wait. 20% coupons come to me through

3 sources (mags, newspaper, email daily), monthly, so I generally have one or more to use at any given time.

I buy my hard-daily-use name-brand tools elsewhere, like Amazon and HD.

e in message news:VvSdnajn snipped-for-privacy@earthlink.com...

te in message news: snipped-for-privacy@earthlink.com...

put on my plaid long sleeve shirt, dark glasses and camouflaged cap, went i n and bought a nice drill. Then went back to the car, changed shirts, took off the cap and sunglasses, went back in and bought a nice saw. Then went back out, took off the shirt and went back in my tee shirt and a floppy ha t and bought a tarp. I still had coupons but ran out of clothes.

eath some overalls, a raincoat and a poncho.

system-61973.html

Really? As an electrical instructor, are you even the slightest bit worrie d about using a cheap multimeter?

snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com fired this volley in news: snipped-for-privacy@googlegroups.com:

That's sort of a 'mixed bag'. I would never use one of those myself, except to get a quick check of the meter itself, to verify it was _reasonably_ accurate.

However, I install equipment for folks who are not usually technically- competent at fixing equipment (being competent at making things that go "BANG", instead), and there are sometimes things I can do "with their hands" over the phone to help trouble-shoot problems.

If they don't even own an instrument, I'll pick up one of those to leave with them (checking it first, of course), just so I don't have to pick up my car keys every time the phone rings.

LLoyd

Gunner Asch fired this volley in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:

Uh, huh! And a LOT cheaper than driving to their site, both for you AND them.

Besides that, it gives the customer a sort of "ownership" of the problem, when they can help trouble-shoot it. That goes a long way toward cementing personal relationships with your customers. They KNOW they saved a bunch by doing it, and it makes them feel pretty good about it.

LLoyd

The HF DVMs have an internal calibration pot that can bring them within 2 counts of a good meter. Mine were generally within 5 counts at 12.00V as received. 500 VDC from a Megger's guard terminal hasn't fried a meter or its included test leads, which I just unplugged, twisted together and measured as >1000 MegOhms at 1000 VDC.

I use better quality probes and leads to check the power line.

-jsw

"Jim Wilkins" fired this volley in news:mc2j22$um5$1 @dont-email.me:

Well, since everything on my machines except for incoming power is (usually) at 48V or lower, I'd say those leads will hold up pretty well to any 'corona' that might develop!

LLoyd

I have a bunch of them around. They are all well within tolerances. I have tested a few and they matched my Fluke meters reading for reading. The test leads are not the best but for probably 95% of what a meter is used for they work.

They are great for the average person as well as a "training" meter. I'd much rather a newbie burned up a (free-3.00) meter than a ($4-500.00) Fluke!

That is my experience too. I built a voltage standard and was surprised at how accurate those cheap HF meters are.

Dan

I just picked up one of those last month. I didn't have any clamp on ammeter and wanted one. It's a nice little unit in a very nice little case. Well worth the $14.

My "good" meter is a Mastech MS8209. 'Taint a Fluke, but I don't need one. I've happily used the sound meter, thermocouple, LUX meter (recently on LEDs to test relative output/efficiency), and love the beeping ohmeter. The clamp-on has a beeper, too.

Obsess much? (On pets or meters?)

That little Circuitmate function gen was indeed bad. :( She no make pretty pictures on the scope at all.

Have you ever tinkered with an 8060A?

I bought one real cheap that worked fine in the store but became intermittent at home. I suspect the pushbutton switch contacts. Before I tear into it I'd like to hear first-hand what works and more importantly what doesn't.

Primum non nocere

-jsw

That, and too many rifle and handgun rounds, eh? Or do you wear ear protection on the range? Suckage about your hearing holes and not being able to hear the beeps. I adore that function of the VOMs, especially for repetitive testing in tight places.

Hah! You tried before me?

"Nessun risultato trovato per circuitmate" You don't read French and I don't read Italian.

I'm just hoping Lee does a drive-by soon... It's a long way to your house. I'm still pissed at not being able to get to the range with you, but as you saw, I could barely stand up. Damn, I hate getting sick. By the time I got home, the flu/cold had pretty much run its course, but the double sinus infection had really blossomed. It took

2 courses of Z-pack to finally kill 'em.

I haven't popped the top, though I did with the HP DVM. I saw nothing inside which I could even attempt to work on. It was so securely shielded from stray RF that it would take a day just to get its armor off.

During my meager time as a test tech, I discovered that the spray contact cleaner designed for switches worked wonders on our old equipment. Clean, debride , deox, lube.

Found a manual:

I bought the 8060A during the summer and set it aside as a winter repair project.

The upper A V ? button fails the [PowerOn + REL] switch test:

It passes the ratio test with 9999. PowerOn + ->

I referenced and quoted from the first one.

The second applies to a higher serial number range than my meter, which is why I mentioned the older datasheetarchive file instead of either of the two newer Fluke .pdfs

Thanks for looking.

-jsw