Harbor Freight for the Strategic Shopper

Welp! Today I had a bunch of 20% off coupons ready to expired, so I put on my plaid long sleeve shirt, dark glasses and camouflaged cap, went in
and bought a nice drill. Then went back to the car, changed shirts, took off the cap and sunglasses, went back in and bought a nice saw. Then went back out, took off the shirt and went back in my tee shirt and a floppy hat and bought a tarp. I still had coupons but ran out of clothes.
$5 says that both tools break within a year.
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in message

put on my plaid long sleeve shirt, dark glasses and camouflaged cap, went in and bought a nice drill. Then went back to the car, changed shirts, took off the cap and sunglasses, went back in and bought a nice saw. Then went back out, took off the shirt and went back in my tee shirt and a floppy hat and bought a tarp. I still had coupons but ran out of clothes.

Tomorrow is the expiration date. I plan to wear bicycle shorts underneath some overalls, a raincoat and a poncho.
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put on my plaid long sleeve shirt, dark glasses and camouflaged cap, went in and bought a nice drill. Then went back to the car, changed shirts, took off the cap and sunglasses, went back in and bought a nice saw. Then went back out, took off the shirt and went back in my tee shirt and a floppy hat and bought a tarp. I still had coupons but ran out of clothes.

underneath some overalls, a raincoat and a poncho.

Anybody know if thrift stores still carry wigs?
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On 2/17/2015 9:53 PM, Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney wrote:

I keep looking at that compound sliding miter saw that goes on sale for $89. I have a miter saw and a radial arm, but that compound sliding miter saw would be handy on occasion. I just now note they have 3 versions. With some differences in miter capacity and bevel cut capacity and RPM. It seems the laser guide has the least capacity. I'm glad I noticed this, I don't want to see the low capacity unit go on sale and me jump on it then find out the limited capacity.

We just recently got a store opened in our city. My wife went shopping there and bought some wheels for a cart, she even got the free multimeter as a gift for me! Mikek
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On Wednesday, February 18, 2015 at 12:55:48 AM UTC-5, amdx wrote:

e in message

put on my plaid long sleeve shirt, dark glasses and camouflaged cap, went i n and bought a nice drill. Then went back to the car, changed shirts, took off the cap and sunglasses, went back in and bought a nice saw. Then went back out, took off the shirt and went back in my tee shirt and a floppy ha t and bought a tarp. I still had coupons but ran out of clothes.

eath some overalls, a raincoat and a poncho.

system-61973.html

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Really? As an electrical instructor, are you even the slightest bit worrie d about using a cheap multimeter?
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snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com fired this volley in

That's sort of a 'mixed bag'. I would never use one of those myself, except to get a quick check of the meter itself, to verify it was _reasonably_ accurate.
However, I install equipment for folks who are not usually technically- competent at fixing equipment (being competent at making things that go "BANG", instead), and there are sometimes things I can do "with their hands" over the phone to help trouble-shoot problems.
If they don't even own an instrument, I'll pick up one of those to leave with them (checking it first, of course), just so I don't have to pick up my car keys every time the phone rings.
LLoyd
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Uh, huh! And a LOT cheaper than driving to their site, both for you AND them.
Besides that, it gives the customer a sort of "ownership" of the problem, when they can help trouble-shoot it. That goes a long way toward cementing personal relationships with your customers. They KNOW they saved a bunch by doing it, and it makes them feel pretty good about it.
LLoyd
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The HF DVMs have an internal calibration pot that can bring them within 2 counts of a good meter. Mine were generally within 5 counts at 12.00V as received. 500 VDC from a Megger's guard terminal hasn't fried a meter or its included test leads, which I just unplugged, twisted together and measured as >1000 MegOhms at 1000 VDC.
I use better quality probes and leads to check the power line.
-jsw
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Well, since everything on my machines except for incoming power is (usually) at 48V or lower, I'd say those leads will hold up pretty well to any 'corona' that might develop! <G>
LLoyd
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wrote:

I just picked up one of those last month. I didn't have any clamp on ammeter and wanted one. It's a nice little unit in a very nice little case. Well worth the $14.

My "good" meter is a Mastech MS8209. 'Taint a Fluke, but I don't need one. I've happily used the sound meter, thermocouple, LUX meter (recently on LEDs to test relative output/efficiency), and love the beeping ohmeter. The clamp-on has a beeper, too.

Obsess much? (On pets or meters?)

That little Circuitmate function gen was indeed bad. :( She no make pretty pictures on the scope at all.
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wrote:

That, and too many rifle and handgun rounds, eh? Or do you wear ear protection on the range? Suckage about your hearing holes and not being able to hear the beeps. I adore that function of the VOMs, especially for repetitive testing in tight places.

Hah! You tried before me?

"Nessun risultato trovato per circuitmate" You don't read French and I don't read Italian.

I'm just hoping Lee does a drive-by soon... It's a long way to your house. I'm still pissed at not being able to get to the range with you, but as you saw, I could barely stand up. Damn, I hate getting sick. By the time I got home, the flu/cold had pretty much run its course, but the double sinus infection had really blossomed. It took 2 courses of Z-pack to finally kill 'em.

I haven't popped the top, though I did with the HP DVM. I saw nothing inside which I could even attempt to work on. It was so securely shielded from stray RF that it would take a day just to get its armor off. <g>
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wrote:

Friendly fire? Bummer!

Jayzuss! You can really hear the shrapnel whizzing on by, can't you? Well, if you weren't hit by it and had your eardrums shredded. Crazy, mon!

Damned straight. Goodonya, mate!

That's proving to be darned unhandy at times, isn't it?

I haven't even opened it yet. A little RF dimmer switch with remote came in the mail today and I soldered a jack to the LED string. It works beautifully with the (low light) single 3528s. I'll be using it on one of these strings: hi-dens 3528 (120/m) or single 5630s (60/m or 300 per 5m string.) It cost $2.82 with free shipping from Shenzen, China. New switching (vs xfrm) wall wart p/s are $2.60 with free shipping. Get a couple of the dimmers and keep one in your pocket, the other velcroed to the bulkhead of your fave boat and have mood lighting. High for reading, low for lurking. Go 5050 or 5630 for the brightness, though a single string of 3528s would light up that little cabin pretty nicely, I'll bet.

It felt more like 20,000 leagues.
The bug hit me right as I was carting Mom around in the wheelchair, then I had to help set up the reception (up and down ladders for 3 hours.) By the time the reception was on, I was completely out of it. I drove to your house 2 days later, with the blinding headache from the (first of two) sinus infection starting to flare up. Some vacation. <sigh> After I loaded up at your house, I drove to my sister's and died overnight. Her fresh chicken soup helped a lot. <g> After making it home the next day, I spent the next two weeks in bed. All of October was gone before I started to bring in any more wages. Sucked, it did!

I don't recall, either, but it's not.
Is it possible to get replacement batteries for the 422, um, on _our_ kind of budget? Or should I pop an $18 7ah glass mat SLA in there, for use off-grid? I need to get some contact cleaner for that intensity switch, too. It drops out from about 0-80% brightness, then blinks on a bit too bright, though the focus helps reduce the phosphor bloom a bit.
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wrote:

Suckage.

Gold plating the terlit seat, no doubt?

Where will you _ever_ find replacement carpet in that color?

No pretty lights upon powerup.

BTDT, haven't yet read them front to back.

That was my first thought.

Yabbut, they were larger and AC only.
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wrote:

I think I did see that at one point, but it was a spurious spurt against the norm of zero output.

Well, at least you didn't pay for it and forget to pick it up after the stroke. That would have been excruciating if someone else remembered it and you didn't.

Ornimentals? <chuckle>

Truth!
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wrote:
I wrote:

Found a manual: http://elektrotanya.com/beckman_fg2_signalgenerator.pdf/download.html
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    [ ... ]

    My high frequency hearing (everything above 2 KHz) has been gone since at least high school (before I started shooting, so we can't blame that. :-)
    I bought a Fluke 77 some years ago, and wound up selling it to a co-worker. I could not hear the continuity beeper. So, I got a Fluke 27 (physically larger, and a lower pitch beeper) so I don't have to ask my wife to be a beep repeater. :-)
    In particular, I like the double short beep for the proper forward voltage drop on a silcon diode, or transistor junction.
    Enjoy,         DoN.
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Have you ever tinkered with an 8060A?
I bought one real cheap that worked fine in the store but became intermittent at home. I suspect the pushbutton switch contacts. Before I tear into it I'd like to hear first-hand what works and more importantly what doesn't.
Primum non nocere -jsw
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On Thu, 19 Feb 2015 07:21:05 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"

During my meager time as a test tech, I discovered that the spray contact cleaner designed for switches worked wonders on our old equipment. Clean, debride <g>, deox, lube. https://www.google.com/search?q=spray+contact+cleaner
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I bought the 8060A during the summer and set it aside as a winter repair project.
The upper A V ? button fails the [PowerOn + REL] switch test: http://pdf.datasheetarchive.com/indexerfiles/Scans-049/DSADA001160.pdf
It passes the ratio test with 9999. PowerOn + -><-)))
My choices are CRC MAF and general-purpose contact cleaner, 91% isopropyl alcohol, Deoxit and Deoxit Gold. I've never tried Deoxit, the others have worked well enough for me on more accessible wiping contacts like the harness connectors in my truck. Here's the issue, see 2.4: http://www.brentek.com/pdfs/DRY_Applications.pdf
At Unitrode we used semiconductor-grade 91% isopropyl to clean new boards and bare wafers after Freon was prohibited. I have the Walmart-grade.
http://mrmodemhead.com/blog/fluke-8060a-repair/ "The switch assemblies make it hard to fully clean the circuit board with IPA (isopropyl alcohol), which is usually step #1 in any restoration project."
Internet opinions on contact cleaners vary. Any soluble contamination is likely to enter the switch, and once inside it's nearly impossible to remove, so I'm asking for hands-on experience.
-jsw
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I referenced and quoted from the first one.
The second applies to a higher serial number range than my meter, which is why I mentioned the older datasheetarchive file instead of either of the two newer Fluke .pdfs
Thanks for looking.
-jsw
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