Hard Starting Honda Lawnmower

I have a Honda HRC215 lawnmower. It's a very nice machine, but became impossible to start.

The symptoms were that:

Over time it would get harder and harder to start, eventually becoming impossible to start without starting fluid. But starting fluid always worked, and once started, subsequent restarts were easy.

If the mower was left in the sun for a while before attempting to start, this greatly improved one's chances.

The first start of the year was very difficult.

I had followed the service manual, adjusting things as required. This would help for a while.

Long story short: It turns out that two things are happening at once.

First, fuel volatility. Gas that's been around for a while loses its volatile components to evaporation, making it hard to get initial ignition. Warming the mower helped because it raised the vapor pressure of what remained. What really helped was to replace the gas at the start of the season: pour the old gas into the car's fuel tank, and buy brand new gas. Note that the gas is not turning to varnish - the carburetor is clean is a whistle. A key clue is that starting fluid (ether) always worked on the first try.

Second, the choke cable. It turns out that the clamp at the motor end of the push-pull cable isn't secure, and slips slowly. I was trying to compensate by adjusting other things, and got deeper and deeper in trouble, as it drifted back out of adjustment. The net effect was that even when in starting position, the choke was not properly closed.

Now this system isn't especially complex, so I started looking for what was slipping. And the cable has exactly two ends, and the one at the control clearly could not slip. Which left the motor end. Turns out the clamp was the traditional kind, with a ridge that was supposed to drop into the V between adjacent turns of the coiled wire sheath, the positive metal-to-metal engagement preventing slippage.

Problem is that the coiled wire is square in cross-section, so there is no V, and the clamp was attempting to grab the soft plastic jacket. Which slowly flowed away, allowing the cable to move in the clamp, no matter how tightly it was clamped. By the time I looked at it, the jacket had become mushed and mangled, and and the cable would slip immediately. Clearly, a design flaw.

The solution was to make a retention clip of bent 0.0625" diameter music wire that goes under the existing retention clamp and prevents the cable from being pulled forward. This allows sufficient pressure to be applied that the choke is engaged.

Now, the mower starts right up.

Joe Gwinn

Reply to
Joseph Gwinn
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Yee haw. I was thinking "he's got moisture in his magneto coil" -- your problem has a much easier fix, though.

Reply to
Tim Wescott

Glad you found the problem. With these symptoms, sometimes the gasket between the carb and engine is missing, or dried up. Put in new gasket, and seal it with Permatex IIB, non hardening gasket sealer. The black crap that won't come off your hands sealer.

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The symptoms were that:

Over time it would get harder and harder to start, eventually becoming impossible to start without starting fluid. But starting fluid always worked, and once started, subsequent restarts were easy.

Reply to
Stormin Mormon

I never worried about moisture because ether always worked, even on a cold engine.

Joe Gwinn

Reply to
Joseph Gwinn

I have an HR215. Same issues. I've been too lazy to fix it, because a teaspoon of gas down the carb starts it on the first pull.

I'll get around to it eventually. Thanks for the tips.

Reply to
Ed Huntress

It's a quick fix, and it involves politics-free metalwork.

Take a 3" long piece of 1/16 inch music wire, and bend into a hairpin over a 1/16 inch thick sheet steel. Bend hairpin bend-end down, so a

1/2 inch leg is formed. The cable wire will pass between the arms of the hairpin, but the coiled square wire is far too large. Bend the tails up, in the opposite direction as the hairpin bend end. These tails will rest on the existing retention clip, and prevent the cable from pulling towards the carburetor assembly on the motor. (It's best to be looking at the motor while reading this description.)

Joe Gwinn

Reply to
Joseph Gwinn

Thanks, Joe. I've saved that one with the PDF of the mower manual. When I get off my butt to fix it, I'll pull it out and see if my HR215 uses the same setup as your HRC215. It probably does.

Reply to
Ed Huntress

Joe, I know that you've solved your problem, but I was wondering if you adjusted the valve clearance. I think that those engines have compression release (CR)and I was wondering if there were special instructions. For a Briggs OHV engine with CR that I fixed, you had to set the clearance after the piston dropped 1/4" past TDC. (I don't have the service manual for a similar Honda mower or I'd look it up.) Denis G.

Reply to
Denis G.

No, I never adjusted the valve clearance. There is a procedure, which doesn't look all that hard. (I've adjusted valves on cars.) When I start the motor by pulling on the cord, I certainly can feel the compression. Anyway, the motor runs just fine once started and warm, and it never backfired, so it didn't seem like a compression problem. I think I tested the compression once, but I don't recall the details.

Joe Gwinn

Reply to
Joseph Gwinn

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