I bought a scroll saw to cut some 3/16" 360 alloy brass. I haven't had much luck with the 15tpi blades I bought to go with it. My project is WR Smith's skeleton clock. He uses a scroll saw to cut his frames; it shows it in his book. Unfortunately, he doesn't mention what blade he uses. My scroll saw can use pinned and plain 5" blades, so if anyone could point me in the right direction I'd probably be able to use any blades suggested.
thanks, Dave
i got what looks like a scroll saw, but its a jewelers saw and its got very, very fine teeth on the blade.. got it at a hobby shop it is suppose ot be used in jewelry making stuff... to cut metals...... thats probably what you need the scroll saws i have have teeth about 5 times the size of the teeth on these paper thin blades..... that probably whey it is not working......
Hi Dave, I have cut the frames of a large skeleton clock from 3/16" brass & used some "Makita" blades part No. 722101-A. On the packet it say's "These blades are designed for soft/hard woods, plywood, plastics, etc." I decided that brass comes under "etc." & I can't get metal cutting blades for the Makita scroll saw. The blades are 5" pinned, & are 15 TPI. I broke about 6 blades cutting both frames, but at about a buck each that was acceptable. I sprayed the cut line liberally with W.D. 40. Hope this helps, Ian Sutherland.
You need a minimum of 2 teeth bearing on the thickness of the metal, preferablly
3--to keep it from tak> > I bought a scroll saw to cut some 3/16" 360 alloy brass. I haven't had muchThree teeth in a cut isn't good cutting procedures. You need to get blades that are a lot finer so that there are more teeth in the cut and the cutting goes smoothly. I'd recommend that you use at least a 30tpi blade. In addition, those blades are rather flexible and will break if you stress them too much.
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the metalworking fret saw blades I have are sold in bundles of a dozen by No.'s instead of tpi and sell for around $5/dozen. A rough guesstimate with a screw pitch blade suggests 50 teeth per inch. They are very fine, you may find them a real treat to use after trying at 15 tpi. Lee Valley used to sell them but not any more :(. do some googling to find a supplier.
These are the same 5" blades used for piercing work. They can be used in a scroll saw or fret saw frame. I never found it a time saver using a power scroll saw for this work. I had an Excalibur for a while and while it was a pretty good scroll saw, I don't really miss it. The better feel you have doing it by hand + not spending half the time replacing broken blades might even make it faster. If you are new to this, get an adjustable fret saw frame, its easier to install the find blades, and make up a fret saw board clamped to your bench with V cut out of it to rest the work on.
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The only identification on my saw ( jig scroll or whatever you wish) is a "dunlap" decal on the web of the over-arm; I paid $1.25 at a church, men's club auction in 1971 for the bare, rusty machine; no motor, no stand, no blades. All three sons learned about machine tools on this saw - how much damage will it do to an adventurous five year old. I moved from cut off coping saw blades to short bits of narrow band saw blades to actual jig saw blades, sometimes even the mini hacksaw blades. When I got into miniatures, I decided to try jewelers blades; to this end, I slowed it down with a smaller motor pulley and reduced the blade tension with a weaker spring ( bad Idea - it needs more tension). with these blades I have even cut 1/8" steel. I have never tried the tungsten coated wire blades for cutting glass and ceramics, but I sure have got my money's worth out of this, even considering the motor salvaged from a worn out sump pump and a bit of scrap wood to build a stand. My approach to brass would be to try a fairly coarse blade and light feed cutting dry.
Gerry :-)} London, Canada
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