How to take the metal pin out

I have a metal pin look like this

| \ =====\ | /

It is attached to glass panel

| glass |====\ glass | glass

I need to take the pin out. The flat part of the pin has dimension of 5/16 inch. The pin attached to a glass panel. I bought a

1/8" titanium bit and drilled the pin hopefully to break it apart. The drill bit just made a scratch on the pin but does not penetrate.

How should I take it out without breaking the glass panel ?

Thanks, Nick

Reply to
configterm
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Acid?

Reply to
David R Brooks

I'd try nitric acid

Reply to
Gerry

Acid would be good, but nitric isn't all that good of a choice. Hydrochloric will dissolve steel readily, and is inexpensive and readily available, unlike nitric. Sulfuric would do the job, too. Be sure to keep it submerged adequately, not only for cooling, but for keeping a fresh supply of acid at the work. Give the acid plenty of time to get the job done. HCl will actually work quite fast, thus the concern about heating.

Wear eye, skin and lung protection when working with these acids------and remember that the gas coming off will be hydrogen-----so do this where there is adequate ventilation, and there's nothing that will be ruined by rusting. If you do this operation inside, where there are iron surfaces, you can expect all of them to be damaged by the fumes.

Harold

Reply to
Harold and Susan Vordos

Are you sure that hydrochloric acid doesn't etch glass? I thought it did, but my memory could be playing tricks.

-- Ed Huntress

Reply to
Ed Huntress

messagenews:5fbXi.39824$ snipped-for-privacy@newsreading01.news.tds.net...

You're thinking of hydroflouric acid (HF) not hydrochloric (HCL). They're in the same family but HF is much more potent. Engineman

Reply to
engineman1

Yeah, I know that hydrofluoric is used for decorative etching, but I thought that hydrochloric also etches glass, or at least frosts it. I'll have to look it up and see if my memory is failing me.

-- Ed Huntress

Reply to
Ed Huntress

HCL is sometimes sold in glass bottles. Engineman

Reply to
engineman1

It appears that hydrochloric reacts noticeably with some glasses but not others. It will leach out metallic ions from several types of glass, leaving a lightly etched, often irridescent surface on the glass.

-- Ed Huntress

Reply to
Ed Huntress

Everyone,

Thanks for suggesting the Acid. Unfortunately, there is no easy way for me to apply it. The metal pin is attached to the metal frame which cover the top of glass. If I use Acid, I might destroy the metal frame. This link shows the picture of Kohler shower door.

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I'm trying to remove the top metal frame from it. Here is my crude diagram

----------------------------------- |Metal Frame | | |+ | O (pin) |+ | |

---------------------------------- | | | glass | | |

The metal frame protect the top part of the glass and provide the hinge to the door. I need to remove the pin so that I can take the metal frame out temporary. If I use acide on the pin, there is good chance it's going to destroy the metal frame as well.

If you think there are other way beside using the acid, please let me know.

Thanks Nick

Reply to
Nick

I would seriously consider using a diamond or silicon carbide abrasive bit and just grinding the pin down - if you make a little wax dam all around it you can keep water in there to cool and remove the ground up metal - it should grind away just fine if you are patient - a dremel tool (or better an air tool to eliminate shock hazard) would do the trick

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Reply to
William Noble

Hey Nick,

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Please refer to page 3 of that pdf.

Pry off the top back cover from the inside of the shower. Be sure to support the door so it doesn't shatter on the way down. Have someone on the other side gently remove the top hinge as you loosen the screws and back plate. That will separate the top hinge from the glass door. Pivot the door open and lift it off the bottom hinge half.

Be careful!

--Winston

Reply to
Winston

Let's guess what they used for HF before plasics have been invented...? Glass would be proper guess. Covered with parafine/wax.

Reply to
Coyher

You're thinking of hydrofluoric.

Harold

Reply to
Harold and Susan Vordos

Your idea is the one I had next, William, but both of the types you recommended are not proper for application on steel. Both of them are soluble at heat, and dull quickly. Aluminum oxide would be the best choice here, unless speed could be kept quite low, then diamond would work reasonably well. Heat is going to be a problem, so this entire matter should be handled slowly, allowing plenty of time for it to dissipate.

Harold

Reply to
Harold and Susan Vordos

That's pretty funny..

John

Reply to
JohnM

That's not likely to be a problem with common glass, which doesn't contain metals. I can see where lead crystal might be affected, however. The borosilicate glass used in labs, along with common household glass are not affected by HCl. I used the same 1 liter decanter for HCL almost the entire time (about 20 years) I refined precious metals and had no degradation of glass quality.

Harold

Reply to
Harold and Susan Vordos

Buy a Dremel tool at your local DIY store and grind it away. Of course I have to ask if you have called Kohler and explained your need to disassemble and asked for guidance?

I'm curious about their customer support.

Wes

Reply to
Wes

Yeah. Now covered with plastic. But it had to be the right type of glass.

-- Ed Huntress

Reply to
Ed Huntress

Thankyouverymuch, I'm here till Tuesday. :)

--Winston

Reply to
Winston

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