Interesting wood handle fit problem

I have a new product to manufacture for a new customer. A hardwood block, that has two brushes glued and nailed to it, has a 7/8" x 2" deep hole to receive a 7/8" broom handle. A small hole goes all the way through the block for a screw that will go through the block and into the broom handle's end. We will apply glue to the joint. The problem is that the handles range from .851" to .883 in a random measurement of 12 pieces in a 100 piece bundle. These are imported as imports have almost completely displaced domestic suppliers. I can have the block supplier make any sized hole. Even with the carpenter's glue and a # 10 screw, I fear the joint won't hold up. I can't spend a lot of money to do something fancy like a blind wedge (That WOULD be the ticket) so, I'm hoping for magic. Any magic to spare?

Reply to
Tom Gardner
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Dip the handle ends in water and apply a polyurethane glue (gorilla glue)and your good to go. The Poly will foam and fill any gaps and hold like iron. Had a similar problem with new handles and old push broom heads. No matter how tight we screw them in they always loosened up. No more.

Good luck

Jim Vrzal Holiday,Fl.

Reply to
Mawdeeb

Clas Ohlson in Sweden,

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sells this contraption for fastening broom handles to brushes:

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I wouldn't be surprised if a hardwareshop in your neighbourhood sells something like that.

S.

Reply to
Sevenhundred Elves

Reply to
kfvorwerk

Can you taper the end and use a mating tapered hole?

Reply to
Ron Thompson

A tenon trimmer comes to mind. Perhaps 0.825" or so - chuck it up in a drill, clamp the handle, push on, pull off, the end of the handle is the right size. This is in-house processing, and wood-working at that, and you just got rid of your wood-working stuff, so....

These have been both home-made and manufactured for centuries. One commercial source is here, but they only offer .75" or .875" off the shelf.

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The other possibility is RTV silicone. It's low strength, but has tested in chair joints to give good long-term performance, where "stronger" glues tested well after initial assembly, but were worse after a few wet-dry cycles of wood movement (no flexibility, glue or wood breaks).

Reply to
Ecnerwal

No magic but if you predrill the ends of the handles about 1 1/2" and use a thicker, longer screw right after the Gorilla Glue has liberally been applied I'll bet it _seems_ like magic.

dennis in nca

Reply to
rigger

or the plug cutter style if the shoulder can be squared off

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Reply to
Joe Gorman

Since you're using a screw to hold the handle in, taper both ends as well as the holes and that will insure that everything fits well. Also make sure that the handle is dry and the blocks are wet wood to insure that a good fit ensures. If you must use straight holes, use unseasoned wood (fresh off of the tree) and force the handle in to the correct distance and then let the wood season. Takes a while but the joint will be good and solid.

-- Why do penguins walk so far to get to their nesting grounds?

Reply to
Bob May

On the other hand, the PU glues suggested by others would be cheaper and quicker. It's true what they say, it foams and swells so it fills out the irregularities. Really magic. Don't know why I didn't think of that.

S.

Reply to
Sevenhundred Elves

Just bought some from Lee Valley and the instruction sheet specifically mentions that it will not function as a gap filler. The thick layer has little strength? Gerry :-)} London, Canada

Reply to
Gerald Miller

Yes, the more it foams, the weaker it will be, so you will have to experiment to find out how much moisture needs to be applied, if any. It is moisture that makes it foam and also makes it harden.

I wonder why they say it won't work as a gap filler. Maybe they sell some other product that's better as a gap filler, or maybe they were just trying to make sure that they wouldn't be held responsible if something breaks after being glued in a less than optimal way, which it admittedly is.

S.

Reply to
Sevenhundred Elves

I can't use any moisture around wire brushes...rust! The block is kiln-dried Poplar according to specifications and that's a lock. So far, I think the PU and a big screw sound best and cheapest...not a huge margin but nice.

Reply to
Tom Gardner

The trick there is to add a little silica or glass beads to the handle after applying the glue. Either dusted on or dipped in a bucket of fine beads. This is also done with epoxies to give them more body and filler strength for gap filling. Same principle should work for PU.

Jim Vrzal Holiday,Fl.

Reply to
Mawdeeb

The PU needs some moisture to cure. This might be no more than dip the handle end in water, jam it in the block, remove, glue, re-insert and screw. The gorilla glue is a mess. Don't get it on your hands.

Pete Keillor

Reply to
Pete Keillor

Oooooo!

Reply to
Tom Gardner

No, the stuff foams up in the large gap and has very little strength. I only use Gorilla Glue for parts with very close fits, like shotgun stock patches. Attempts to use it to fill gaps will leave you with a lot of hard stuff on the surface like shaving foam and with about as much strength.

The idea of shaving the end of the handle to fit the mating hole is a good one, if that's done, there's no reason a premium moisture-resisting yellow carpenter's glue wouldn't work a whole lot cheaper. I've had Titebonded edge-glued joints only let go in the wood surrounding the joint when tested, can't get better than that. The yellow glues set up faster and are a lot less messy to clean up, they also don't stain hands.

Stan

Reply to
stans4

Yellow glue mixed with sawdust?

Reply to
keith bowers

Reply to
kfvorwerk

I think you hit the mark! We've done that before and it works!

Reply to
Tom Gardner

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