I too have been using wlm for years and putting up with the lack of "> " in quoted lines. Sometimes I'd top post, sometimes add a break line like your. After a particularly nasty netcop started harassing me for top posting I looked around and maybe a year ago I found a solution:
formatting link
I used it for this message. Only gotchas are that you have to add two nonblank lines at the top before hitting win-9, which then get deleted, and it puts a copy of your sig into the quoted material so you have to delete those lines. If I cared I'd download the uncompiled version and try to learn the scripting language, but I don't post that much these days. Anyway, just thought you might find it useful. Oh, I started with wlm 2011 because that's all there was when I built my pc, but I finally got tired of the bug that would occasionally unsubscribe me from all of my groups and looked around and found that Microsoft did one update, wlm 2012. I forget where I downloaded it from because of course win 7 is no longer supported, but google should find it for you. It has a bug or two as well, but they are different and have only affected me once or twice :-). Now if they would only put "select all" in the right click drop down menu life would be much better ...
"Carl" wrote in message news: snipped-for-privacy@news2.newsguy.com...
I too have been using wlm for years and putting up with the lack of "> " in quoted lines. Sometimes I'd top post, sometimes add a break line like your. After a particularly nasty netcop started harassing me for top posting I looked around and maybe a year ago I found a solution:
formatting link
I used it for this message. Only gotchas are that you have to add two nonblank lines at the top before hitting win-9, which then get deleted, and it puts a copy of your sig into the quoted material so you have to delete those lines. If I cared I'd download the uncompiled version and try to learn the scripting language, but I don't post that much these days. Anyway, just thought you might find it useful. Oh, I started with wlm 2011 because that's all there was when I built my pc, but I finally got tired of the bug that would occasionally unsubscribe me from all of my groups and looked around and found that Microsoft did one update, wlm 2012. I forget where I downloaded it from because of course win 7 is no longer supported, but google should find it for you. It has a bug or two as well, but they are different and have only affected me once or twice :-). Now if they would only put "select all" in the right click drop down menu life would be much better ...
Regards, Carl Ijames
======================= Thanks, I'll add that to my growing to-do list.
Recently I've replaced the failing 50-year-old shower drain pipes and faucet cartridges, lowered and repaired damage to the TV antenna, milled angled mortices in handrails for a neighbor's charity repair project, taken down the metal chimney to thoroughly clean and inspect it, spread topsoil on the yard, salvaged files from a crashed hard drive, checked and rewired the solar batteries, and last night machined a heatsink that screws (3/8-32) onto the F connector of a hot-running USB TV tuner on the laptop.
Today's projects are troubleshooting a Win 7 Media Center recording issue that may require reinstalling the OS or replacing the boot drive, and sharpening and using a custom tool to scrape the hard deposits out of the chimney sections. A rust-through on the car and oil leak on the truck are next.
If you're using round stovepipe , may I suggest you make a "chain flail" ? Mine's a 3" round disc with 4 short pieces of chain welded on , mounted on a length of 1/2" all-thread . The 8' all-thread I started with was cut into 3 32" pieces and coupled with nuts made of 3/4" hex stock . Spinning it too fast may have a detrimental effect on the stovepipe ... We were leaving Memphis on Sunday afternoon - until the lower ball joint on the left front wheel failed . Took all day Monday to replace it along with the upper ball joint , CV drive axle , and brake line hose in my son's front yard ... came home Tuesday and on Wednesday I replaced the lower ball joint on the other side . It goes in Tuesday morning for front end alignment . The Harley trike was a pleasant way to run for parts .
If you're using round stovepipe , may I suggest you make a "chain flail" ? Mine's a 3" round disc with 4 short pieces of chain welded on , mounted on a length of 1/2" all-thread . The 8' all-thread I started with was cut into 3 32" pieces and coupled with nuts made of 3/4" hex stock . Spinning it too fast may have a detrimental effect on the stovepipe ... We were leaving Memphis on Sunday afternoon - until the lower ball joint on the left front wheel failed . Took all day Monday to replace it along with the upper ball joint , CV drive axle , and brake line hose in my son's front yard ... came home Tuesday and on Wednesday I replaced the lower ball joint on the other side . It goes in Tuesday morning for front end alignment . The Harley trike was a pleasant way to run for parts . Snag
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You can do a temporary DIY alignment to make a car drivable by painting a stripe around the center of the raised wheels and then holding a well-braced screwdriver in the stripe as you rotate the wheel to scribe a true-running line in the damp paint. Lower the car to weight the wheels, roll it a little to let them position themselves and measure the difference between the lines forward and aft. There's usually a toe-in or -out spec to account for drag or thrust.
I've helped my BIL clean his 1790 farm house chimney with tire chains spun by a drill and dragging a Christmas tree up and down from both ends.
My Class A metal chimney is set up to clean in a few minutes from the ground. The rain cap pivots on or off by tugging on a cord. It's a standard round commercial cap mounted on scissor-like pivot arms attached to a band clamp around the top of the chimney. I slide a ring of 1/4" hardware cloth into the cap to keep leaves out in fall and nesting birds out in spring. Everything is painted to blend into the background of tree branches.
The lower end of the outdoor chimney rests on a shelf that leaves space below for a rubber horse stall bucket* that the brush weight won't damage. A pipe mast above the roof end supports a boom, pulley and wire cable with a weighted shop-made nylon brush I can swing over the chimney and then run down and up it until flakes stops falling. Wire brushing removes very little more. I put knurled handles on the screws that retain the lower cleanout cap to make them easier to remove and install by feel with a cold bare hand.
The chimney passes out of the basement through an opening that was originally a window. I added a smaller window and an outside mirror that shows the top of the chimney so I can adjust the airtight stove's draft for no visible smoke, eye irritation or bad smell, and thus minimal creosote and likely complete and efficient combustion. That took a lot of instrumented experimenting and fine tuning of the heated secondary air that burns the smoke. Red oak has a nice perfumey smell when completely burned.
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Once the stove heats to the smoke-free condition it will hold its temperature pretty closely for about an hour, then begin to slowly cool when it could take more wood. The camera aimed at the chimney top and stove temperature monitor in the kitchen tell me when. There's another thermocouple meter in the bedroom that reminds me to add wood in the middle of very cold nights. The stove burns and heats all night, just not at full normal temperature after the first hour, but you wouldn't know that without measuring it. By then the wood is mostly charcoal so the stove doesn't smoke as it cools.
I couldn't find a nylon brush that wouldn't scratch the lining so I made one from a 1/8" steel rod bent double and twisted, then I forced the twist open with a pointed rod and inserted coarse string trimmer cords for bristles. These were cut to length by sliding the brush slowly into stovepipe to center it as I snipped off the protruding excess, leaving them slightly long for wear. The haul rope is braided cotton which is easy on the hands when I grab tight after letting the weight free-fall.
After 35 years the chimney and brush are still in good condition, checked yesterday. I brush the chimney weekly, mainly to start clean in case weather, illness or injury stops me.
those indestructible farm buckets are good places to store and carry chain falls, and to keep the lower end of the hand chain out of the dirt. Metal buckets make a loud racket when the hand chain runs into them and plastic ones don't last long.
Sounds like the Best UPS which I have -- four 12V gel cells about the size of larger automotive batteries, sine wave output, Sola type constant-voltage transformer, picks up within a cycle of power failure, reports power-line frequency, and even graphs the waveform if you ask.
Hmmm ... Exorcisor bus based -- IIRC, the Exorcisor was the development system for the 8-bit microprocessors -- the MC 6800 and the MC 6809 in particular.
A ROM based OS sounds like Microware's OS-9 (not the later Mac OS of the same name.) It was truly capable of being run from ROM, including applications. That would have been on the MC-6809 (or with a wider bus, on the MC-68000).
The Shugart 8" disks were hard disks or floppies? I've used both (actually sharing a single controller card running on MultiBus via what looked like a SASI (pre-SCSI) interface.) This was in my MC-68000 based v7 unix system. The 8" hard disks used the same control interface bus as the 8" floppy drives, but had radial data interface. (Kind of like the smaller ST-506 hard drives.)
The Best mentioned above was not rack mount -- it was a waist-high cabinet on casters. It did take a winch and a 4:1 ratio pulley system to lift it to the second floor where it now lives.
We are in a fairly populated part of Virginia -- not too far outside the Capital Beltway -- and had an outage (a few years ago) of about 36 hour -- when a Derecho came through the area. Some in Maryland were out of power closer to a week.
Of course, the Best Power Systems UPS could not handle that long an outage, so everything got shut down cleanly and we waited -- and waited -- and waited. :-)
Most of our outages seem to be on the order of one to four hours. Still a nuisance, and the longer end is enough to shut down the systems. Once I shut things down and left for a doctor's appointment. According to my wife, power returned about three minutes after I drove away. :-(
The 8" drives were floppy drives. Single sided, hard sectored. No idea what OS it had. It was more like a state machine. One system had the drives, the second didn't. It used a very strange 'Page' system where every file was the same size, and the system configuration pages were read in order, on power up. The one without drives was simple pages. The computer only had 32KB of RAM to store notices like our community bulletin board. The system with drives held our local version of the Electronic Program Guide. It also processed the AP and UPI news feeds from a TTY loop to RS232. During a rbuild, I discovered that I could disrupt the newswires or send fake news if I had wanted to.
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