Lathe Tailstock help (advice) needed

lathe with higher speeds.

I have a similar vintage leblond. The bore for the quil on mine is slit on the back side with a bolt to tighten the quill. You can lock it in place if needed or adjust the drag. My 10EE has same idea.

I take it you don't have this feature. Can you easily add it?

Of course you could bore it out, add a bushing and then bore again. I think you could put a boring bar in the spindle, the tailstock in front of the carriage and push the entire tailstock with it tightened to just slide.

Karl

years and now finally want to correct it or move on to a better lathe.

within the tailstock when trying to enlarge (drilling) a hole from 15/32 to

31/64 in brass.

tapping purposes allowing the quill to slide back and forth while disconnected. Don't quite understand the procedure, but doesn't matter at this point.

lathe with the proper disclosures.

of the headstock gear settings.

lathe with higher speeds.

the easy way is Loctite Fixmaster. Depends on where the wear is. If its the quill..Fixmaster might do you a good job..if its the tailstock...sleeving might be better.

If you know anyone in a plating shop...you might have good luck having the quill copper plated thick..and then hard chromed.

Gunner

years and now finally want to correct it or move on to a better lathe.

within the tailstock when trying to enlarge (drilling) a hole from 15/32 to

31/64 in brass.

tapping purposes allowing the quill to slide back and forth while disconnected. Don't quite understand the procedure, but doesn't matter at this point.

lathe with the proper disclosures.

of the headstock gear settings.

lathe with higher speeds.

There's Moglice:

You'd rough bore the tailstock to make enough clearance for the Moglice, fixture the quill in its proper location, make dams as required to contain the goo, inject the Moglice of the proper viscosity, and let it set. The stuff cost $25 - $45 for a 50 - 100ml kit.

I would probably be happier with a smaller lathe with higher speeds.

The above line says it all. Why spend time and money on a lathe you are not happy with. Remove 333 to reply. Randy

years and now finally want to correct it or move on to a better lathe.

jiggling within the tailstock when trying to enlarge (drilling) a hole from

15/32 to 31/64 in brass.

tapping purposes allowing the quill to slide back and forth while disconnected. Don't quite understand the procedure, but doesn't matter at this point.

the lathe with the proper disclosures.

of the headstock gear settings.

lathe with higher speeds.

Is Moglice hard enough for that? Compression strength of epoxy (Moglice) typically is around 5,000 psi. Moglice claims 23,000 psi. I have no freaking idea how they make that claim, unless they have some magic filler that takes up all the load. And the side load on those quills can be pretty high, especially if some klutz let a chuck work lose while drilling or tapping, and bell-mouthing the bore of the tailstock.

Anyway, since it's a straight sleeving job on many lathes (I don't know the LeBlond), I'd press in a piece of brass tube and ream it to fit, after grininding the quill to make sure it's straight and uniform.

Or I'd try. Whether I'd succeed is another question.

Karl, thanks for your reply. My lathe is identical. Clamping down on the slit on the rear of the quill no longer helps. Still play in the front-to-back direction. Ivan Vegvary

Thanks Gunner, Lot's of reading, interesting pdf Ivan Vegvary

Thanks Ned, will look at your suggestions. Ivan Vegvary

Randy, I agree re smaller lathe. Le Blonde is 3 phase, might be hard to sell. (Lucked out, have 3 phase in my home shop) Ivan Vegvary

years and now finally want to correct it or move on to a better lathe.

jiggling within the tailstock when trying to enlarge (drilling) a hole from

15/32 to 31/64 in brass.

tapping purposes allowing the quill to slide back and forth while disconnected. Don't quite understand the procedure, but doesn't matter at this point.

the lathe with the proper disclosures.

of the headstock gear settings.

lathe with higher speeds.

Though I can't vouch for the properties, Moglice is heavily filled. It can be used to rebuild feed nuts, which I imagine is a more demanding app than a tailstock quill.

I did the way bearings on the work drive for a deep hole drill a couple weeks ago. The work drive weighs 800 pounds, but the bearing pressure is not too high. I'll let you know in 10 years how it worked out.

years and now finally want to correct it or move on to a better lathe.

jiggling within the tailstock when trying to enlarge (drilling) a hole from

15/32 to 31/64 in brass.

tapping purposes allowing the quill to slide back and forth while disconnected. Don't quite understand the procedure, but doesn't matter at this point.

the lathe with the proper disclosures.

some of the headstock gear settings.

lathe with higher speeds.

Looking at the material properties, it looks great for way bearing applications. Those are rarely very high specific loads.

But the load on a tailstock quill probably is a great deal higher. I've seen the mouth of a quill socket get wrecked by one mistake -- not mine, I'm happy to say, although it scared the heck out of me to be standing close while a big Jacobs chuck flew out on the floor.

That would be the plan. You could bore it and use a brass shim rolled into a tube.

Jon

15 years and now finally want to correct it or move on to a better lathe.

jiggling within the tailstock when trying to enlarge (drilling) a hole from

15/32 to 31/64 in brass.

tapping purposes allowing the quill to slide back and forth while disconnected. Don't quite understand the procedure, but doesn't matter at this point.

the lathe with the proper disclosures.

some of the headstock gear settings.

smaller lathe with higher speeds.

I can't think of any normal loads on the tailstock that would exceed perhaps a couple hundred psi on the tailstock bore of a typical lathe. That's an order of magnitude higher than the pressure on the Moglice I put on the gun drill drive, but approx 2 orders of magnitude less than the compressive strength claimed for Moglice.

Estimating the load on the tailstock by looking at the result of an accident seems a bit like deciding whether the body metal on your car is thick enough by running into a tree.

...

I'm sure you're right for *most* operations. If it were true for all this lathe has seen, the tailstock wouldn't need a rebuild.

Maybe i just like what I know, but a rebore and sleeve seems easier anyway.

my 2 cents

Jerwelcomen.

Gunner

years and now finally want to correct it or move on to a better lathe.

jiggling within the tailstock when trying to enlarge (drilling) a hole from

15/32 to 31/64 in brass.

tapping purposes allowing the quill to slide back and forth while disconnected. Don't quite understand the procedure, but doesn't matter at this point.

the lathe with the proper disclosures.

of the headstock gear settings.

lathe with higher speeds.

Oh MY, this is a VERY handy PDF! Thanks mucho!

years and now finally want to correct it or move on to a better lathe.

jiggling within the tailstock when trying to enlarge (drilling) a hole from

15/32 to 31/64 in brass.

tapping purposes allowing the quill to slide back and forth while disconnected. Don't quite understand the procedure, but doesn't matter at this point.

the lathe with the proper disclosures.

of the headstock gear settings.

lathe with higher speeds.

COOL STUFF! This thread has been the most valuable to me in months! I'll be using Moglice soon! Thanks!

Do you know whether it's the quill and/or the bore that's worn? It will make a big difference as to the repair. E.g., if it's only the bore, then Moglice-ing it would work. But if the quill were worn in a taper, the Moglice would make things worse (it would fill the bore to match the quill's taper and never move again).

I never repaired a tailstock, so maybe it's always one or the other that wears, but you still need to know which it is.

Bob

Ugh. Having popped a lathe saddle free off the bed after casting Moglice on the underside of the bed, I'd be afraid you would never get the ram out of the tailstock. If there was any wear in the middle of the ram that reduced the diameter even .001", you'd be completely hosed for sure. The biggest arbor press in the world wouldn't free that ram. If you go this route (and Moglice is REALLY great stuff!) make sure you use an extra, extra thick layer of mold release on the ram. Actually, what I'd recommend is to make a substitute ram plug that is a couple thousandths undersize, cast the Moglice and then line-bore the Moglice for alignment and fit to the ram. Then, you could establish near zero clearance, without the nightmare of getting the real ram stuck in there. The pseudo-ram could be any sort of mockup, maybe even rolled-up shim stock, that would make it real easy to peel it off the Moglice.