lathe advice needed...

The place i'm at is getting a new lathe monday. I think it's a samsung. I looked at the specs, seems comparable to a "medium-high" end okuma. Same
type of construction, same type of toolchanger, etc...
Iv'e ran lots of lathes, and operated a few cnc lathes, but I've never been involved in a new instalation. Is there anything I should make sure is done? is there anything I should see it do before the guy leaves? Is there anything as far as programming the guy should do? Generic pickup or anything??? Should we do things like run a toolchange loop program for a few hours? Spin the chuck wide open for a few, etc?...
Do these things need releved a week later? Does the leveling effect the tir of the spindle?
For some reason they got me pegged as a cnc lathe guru, and that is certainly not the case...however, with help from some of you guys I can be a proxy expert. lol
****** One place I worked had some kind of program where I could edit a variable and just that tool would be shifted. Another place picked up using led blocks. Things like that I would really appreciate hearing from you guys. This place I work is a fair honest shop, they treat toolmakers with respect, I'd sure like to see em get set up good with their first cnc lathe.
Also... Anybody know where we could get a good apprentice, no experience, just mechanically inclined, and the younger the better,...willing to go to school at night and buy lots of tools on tool credit. Decent pay to start for right person. Sunny florida, south of the oil mess. No local or state taxes. if you live in a good area, water and trash is free. One of ya'll got a frustraited kid...give em a grand, and send him down to me! We'll hook him up in a box with a bicycle. A few work shirts, an an atm card. Thats all you need in florida to get started.
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Ehh, not so much. But not a bad machine either.

Check level an dalignment. If you have a tailstock and a long piece of material of sufficient diameter, turn the OD for the length of the Z- axis travel and check for taper over the whole length.

Check to make sure all of the control options are turned on. G70's G80's, rigid tap, custom macro, etc.

Bot a bad idea. Run the spindle and axes too. Check for excessive heat/noise in the headstock.

Only if the chuck is rated at the same rpm as the spindle. I'd be more inclined to run a break-in program on the spindle. They probably already did it at the factory, but you never know...

Maybe and no. If it is a long bed lathe you will most likely have to re- level it a couple of times. The spindle should have less than 40 millionths runout from the get-go.
As far as spindle alignment with the turret, you should check a few holders and make sure you aren't off up and down (Y plane), You can dial in side to side (X plane) with an offset.

Assuming it's a simple 2-axis lathe, it should be about as easy as it gets.
See if aanyone at Samsung can tell you what the maximum chip section the spindle is capable of taking. This will be something like 2mm squared. It will tell you the maximum DOC and feed rate that it will take while turning.

Use work shifts in Z. X shouldn't change. Use geometry offsets for touching off new tools, and wear offsets, for final adjustment. I would probably use the face of the chuck or chuck jaws to establish Z-zero and then use a work shift to put Z-zero at the face of the work.

What kind of turning will you be doing? Bar work? Chuck work? Materials?

Good luck with that.
--

Dan

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D Murphy wrote:

Make sure to down load the parameters after the machine is running and the tech. has made any changes.

I second that!

Best, Steve
--


Regards,
Steve Saling
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isn't that where that were ABC filmed "invasion" of the aliens? ya the south Florida swamps! <g> Ya know that cop, the lady doctor, & bunch that are infested with alien jojo- the crazy brother-in law was abducted & doctor is having an alien baby :-) just joking, what time ya want my 23yr old down there? My 25 yr old is a 4th yr (almost journeyman) FORD dealer mechanic here. He aint goin anywhere. I could set him up with an old "last word" indicator, no better yet one of those mechnical +-.004 pointer type do hickie indicators if you could call it that.<g> Some old B/S non carbide faced slanted line mic's that are always right on - not .025 off like some say <g> So if he aint frustrated with life now with those things he will be.
all kidding aside, I will ask around. One kid even comes to mind, but I'll have to ask first.
-- ~g~
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