Lathe tricks?

Presumably this thing will have an axial hole in it, right? I'd rough out the disk and then bore it or drill/ream it to size, and then put it on a mandrel and mount the mandrel between centers. If after you bore/ream the central hole you countersink sufficiently, you will be able to face both sides and turn the outside as well. And it will all be dead concentric.

Else you can do what you were planning, and then saw the part off. Put a faceplate on the lathe, and put a piece of paper between the part and the faceplate. Run a long bolt through the lathe spindle and bolt it to the faceplate via the central hole (again, assuming this thing has some kind of axle hole). Mount a DTI and tap the part in then firm up. Then you can face to thickness up to where the clamping bolt/nut is. You can sand that part off later if you care that much.

Grant Erw> Hi All,

Dog it down to a face plate. _-->XXX

If, by chance, the pard doesn't have an axial hole.... Face one side. Cut off with the saw of your choice. Glue the faced off side to the faceplate with a few drops of cyanoacrylate. Face the other side. separate from the face plate with a firm blow from a mallet or a bit of heat.

Mark Rand RTFM

Make an expanding mandrel.

michael

Hi again,

If you think about it, the forces involved in turning a large wooden bowl can be just as large as those involved in a lot of metal turning. The important thing is that the workpiece and the faceplate should both be flat and smooth in order to get a good bond. I have used the technique for both turning and milling (shaping doesn't work very well !). If you keep any interrupted cuts gentle and don't let the workpiece get too hot then the workpiece won't fall off.

Yes. Cyanoacrylate is super glue, krazy glue etc. I have also used Loctite

Accurately mounting can be done if there is a central hole or centre pop mark... Use the tailstock to press the part onto the faceplate. If the part is to be machined all over then accuracy may be less important.

Regards Mark Rand RTFM

Turn a rod to fit the center hole, nice and snug and hold it against a belt sander. This keeps your pinkies from the belt and away from the heat.

Or you can do what I do, and thats to back face the part, just before parting it off with a good parting tool.

Gunner

"You cannot invade the mainland United States. There would be a rifle behind each blade of grass." --Japanese Admiral Isoroku Yamamoto

Yes. Assuming a hole or at least a light prick punch mark in the center of the work piece, mount a center in the tailstock, apply the glue and push the work into place with the tailstock ram.

Ted