need good chainsaw chain

I bought two Logger truck loads of oak logs. They have been cut for a fair while and the wood is pretty dry. My Carlton chainsaw chains aren't even lasting a full gas tank before they are dull.
I just found the original Stehl chainsaw chain and I'll try that tomorrow.
I need to buy a couple chains to get this job done. Anybody recommend a saw chain that will hold an edge in this situation?

Stihl?? :) :) From yer tool rental place. Sposed to be really good. You'll pay retail-plus, but they should have'em. Or mebbe from a big Landscaper/Tree service; might give you a break. -- Mr. P.V.'d (formerly Droll Troll), Yonkers, NY Ever-preparing for The Grand Insertion Party Nominee, IPPVM Independent Party of the Proctologically Violated®© (M)asses "That's proly not a hemorrhoid you're feeling.... " entropic3.14decay at optonline2.718 dot net; remove pi and e to reply--ie, all d'numbuhs
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Wow, that is a lot of work!
How are you sharpening the chains? Are you seeing any dirt in the place you are cutting? Most places that sell chain saws will have good quality chains. At least that is true here in Central Oregon.
My chains get dull cutting juniper trees because of the dust that collects in the bark. It is all volcanic and sometimes will make sparks when hit by the steel chain.
Even so, one chain will last for a couple of pickup loads unless I hit some farmer's nails or fence wire.
Paul
Karl Townsend wrote:
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www.baileys-online.com
It's a loggers mail order supply place. I buy quite a bit of stuff from them - all of it excellent quality. Saw chains run a third of what I would pay locally. (Appx $11 vs $32) They carry Oregon and their Woodsman store label. Give them a call with your saw brand chain size, # of drive links, and drive tooth thickness, they will get the right chain for your saw. Note: I am not affiliated with Baileys in any manner, just a satisfied customer.
Envy on your oak, mine is 'grit filled bark' lodgepole pine - about 6 cords a year. I touch up my saw chains every tank of gas - just a couple of strokes seem to be enough - and a thorough going over between loads.
If you have any dirt/sand/mud on the log, remove it with an axe or keep the dirt side toward the saw. That helps to keep most of the dirt from being carried into the saw chain.

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Unfortunately, if that oak is well dried you'd be better off with a king-sized chop saw than a chain saw.
That oak will be much harder to cut than Aluminum.
If you have a water source available at the woodlot, you might try using it as a "coolant" in hopes of softening the wood as you cut. Dunno if it'll work, though.
On my old McCulloch, I'd, sometimes, have to sharpen the chain 1-3 times to cut through 30" thick oak that'd been down for a while. [Didn't matter whether I was using an Oregon or a McCulloch chain, either.]

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I was getting ready to make a similar post. My chains made by Oregon (bought at Sears) are fine for cutting pine but aren't lasting on the couple of oak trees I've got to cut up.
Hopefully someone with some experience with commercial grade chains can chime in.
Steve.
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Back in the 'sixties and 'seventies, when Dutch Elm desease took out thousands of Elms in Ontario, we felled the trees with a chain saw, and cut them to 4 ft lengths green (or as green as we could catch them, being dead.) We then let them sit/dry for a while before cutting to stove length with the buzz saw. Splitting was best done at about 10 below.
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On Sun, 29 Oct 2006 21:44:06 GMT, "Karl Townsend"
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You need a good circular "buzz saw" for that job. Aboyt a 42 incher on a 50HP tractor ought to do the job <<BG>>

On Sun, 29 Oct 2006 21:44:06 GMT, "Karl Townsend"
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http://www.rapcoindustries.com/ Makes carbide tipped chain, not sure how they are to use or sharpen. Love to have one on my O75AV but Oregon's work well enough for me..
ED
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I'm going to order one of these. Anybody else tried one?
Karl

Karl Townsend wrote:
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Fill yer boots Karl,
I lost pretty much all interest at the feedback and comments page where they were waxing ecstatic about the price at 5 to 10 times the cost of steel chain.
I'd figure on buying maybe 4 chains of standard build for that job, and probably wearing out two completely, with a little life left on the other two.
You might be able to write them off against the business, though, that can make the difference.
I am certain that they work very well, I just have no real use for one at that price.
But I'm a cheap sonofagun most of the time.
Had I a job to write it off against, I'd probably be pricing out the 100' roll. :-)
Cheers Trevor Jones

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I'll price one tomorrow, if they are under $150. I'll get one. I may go higher if I can't start getting some production out of my wood cutting. I don't have all month to do this job.
FWIW, I don't buy ANYTHING I can't write off. What's the point?
Karl

On Mon, 30 Oct 2006 00:15:16 GMT, with neither quill nor qualm, "Karl
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You'd best check prices first. Some folks mortgage their homes to be able to afford carbide chain. <g>
http://store.baileys-online.com/cgi-bin/baileys/1335 <thud>

On Sun, 29 Oct 2006 17:34:08 -0800, Larry Jaques
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Give it time. Chinese will bring it down to few bucks per foot.

Larry Jaques wrote:
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HOLY S**T! $1600 for a saw chain? Do you X-ray your logs first to make sure there's no nails, etc. in them? Hmmmm... I see a business opportunity, here. I could probably braze carbide chips onto a saw chain in half an hour. $15 chain + $20 carbide bits + 1/2 hour $1600? Sounds like a winner to me!
Jon

On Mon, 30 Oct 2006 22:18:08 -0600, with neither quill nor qualm, Jon
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That's for a 100 foot roll of carbide chain, Jon. ;)

I"ll have to check my little saw and see how many feet - maybe 2 1/2' - and all the other physicals. I suspect the chain is for larger bars than my arbor saw.
Martin Martin H. Eastburn @ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net NRA LOH & Endowment Member NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member http://lufkinced.com /
Larry Jaques wrote:
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Larry Jaques wrote:
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Thanks, I missed that part! It makes a BIT more sense, but that is still a little expensive. By the time somebody makes up a custom chain with it, they are going to charge $150 - 200 minimum, I'd expect.
Jon

On Tue, 31 Oct 2006 22:35:00 -0600, with neither quill nor qualm, Jon
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Ayup. Outrageous, but if you're cutting sheetmetal, rocks, dirt, and steel for a living with 'em, they're probably worth it. That's all fire and rescue men use, AFAIK.

Larry Jaques wrote:
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Carbide and Diamond are the ones that most departments use. Carbide for "normal" use and the Diamond if you need to cut a hole through concrete/stone. Both usually used with free flowing water to help cool the chain and the user! Most of the time a department will have a couple saws set up. Many of the larger departments who use them a lot have gas and hydraulic powered saws. The diamond chain make carbide stuff seem CHEAP!