need good chainsaw chain

Relax Jon!

Breathe! :-)

$1500 gets you a 100 foot spool of the stuff. Compared to $179 for the carlton spool, just to the left...

Cheers Trevor Jones

Reply to
Trevor Jones
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I replaced bar oil with the used oil from my F150. Works fine but goes through about 50% faster due to lower viscosity.

Steve.

Reply to
SteveF

LOL, there's nothing a little more horsepower won't cure.

Karl

Reply to
Karl Townsend

I"ll have to check my little saw and see how many feet - maybe 2 1/2' - and all the other physicals. I suspect the chain is for larger bars than my arbor saw.

Martin Martin H. Eastburn @ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net NRA LOH & Endowment Member NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member

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Larry Jaques wrote:

Reply to
Martin H. Eastburn

Thanks, I missed that part! It makes a BIT more sense, but that is still a little expensive. By the time somebody makes up a custom chain with it, they are going to charge $150 - 200 minimum, I'd expect.

Jon

Reply to
Jon Elson

On Tue, 31 Oct 2006 22:35:00 -0600, with neither quill nor qualm, Jon Elson quickly quoth:

Ayup. Outrageous, but if you're cutting sheetmetal, rocks, dirt, and steel for a living with 'em, they're probably worth it. That's all fire and rescue men use, AFAIK.

Reply to
Larry Jaques

Do you sharpen the chains yourself or do you have it done elsewhere? Are you checking and/or filing the depth gages with every third sharpening? What I mean by this is that if you aren't filing down the depth gages, the chain will appear to go dull very quickly since the teeth can't dig in very far. With a freshly, correctly sharpened chain, you should see "noodles" of wood, not dust coming out of the kerf. You should know what depth gage setting is required for any chain and saw combination that you are using. If you don't know what I mean, email me off list.

On very hard, dry wood, you may want to adjust the angles of the teeth (when you file) to give more support to the leading edge of the tooth. I recently had to spend quite a bit of time on a chain that a friend had "professionally" sharpened. The depth gages had never been touched. When I got done with the chain, the friend said it hadn't worked that well for a long time. I agree with another poster that the "safety" chain can be a problem since those special teeth act as additional depth gages and totally stop you from plunging. ---But maybe that's better than the alternative of sawing into your forehead if the saw kicks back and you aren't prepared to deal with it. All in all, I always have my files as close as my gas and oil can. It takes less than 5 minutes to touch up a 16" saw chain. I touch up as soon as I can't easily stall the saw with a little down pressure.

Heated home and made Maple Syrup with wood heat for 20 years, Pete Stanaitis

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Karl Townsend wrote:

Reply to
spaco

Carbide and Diamond are the ones that most departments use. Carbide for "normal" use and the Diamond if you need to cut a hole through concrete/stone. Both usually used with free flowing water to help cool the chain and the user! Most of the time a department will have a couple saws set up. Many of the larger departments who use them a lot have gas and hydraulic powered saws. The diamond chain make carbide stuff seem CHEAP!

Reply to
Steve W.

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