How Big Is The Disc

Jun 06, 2025 Last reply: 1 year ago 15 Replies

A while back I installed an under bed goose neck hitch in my (not new anymore) truck I bought last year. I also picked up a fifth wheel companion hitch that drops into the "receiver" instead of the goose neck ball. After assembling, adjusting, and test installing the fifth wheel hitch I left it in the truck. Its in the way, and the ball takes up valuable space in the under seat storage compartment when it could just be upside down in the receiver instead. I can loose the tension bolt, pull back the cross pin and lift out the fifth wheel hitch by hand, but I don't want to. Its heavy and as my regular work outs remind me I am at the age when I am just trying to maintain strength, and probably not going to get stronger.



I was thinking about making a lifting eye for the fifth wheel. It doesn't have to be super strong. Just stronger than me. Then I could use a chain, cable, or just a hook to lift the hitch out with the tractor.



Originally I was thinking jib crane near the front of the shop, but after picking up a shipping container, and moving a lot of things out of the shop I realized shop space is to valuable to store something that will only get used occasionally. It needs to go in one of the containers, or even just outside on a pallet or rack.



I might still want a jib crane in the shop...



Anyway, what diameter is the disc on a fifth wheel trailer? Not the horseshoe int he back of the truck. The disc that slides into it. The fifth wheel I'll need to move a few times yet is 60 miles away, so I can't just walk outside and measure it.


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Maybe just buy one. Amazon $17 😉

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What fun is that?

At least that one is a lot cheaper than the one I saw on eTrailer.

The Amazon one will be here tomorrow.

I might still want a jib crane in the shop...

Anyway, what diameter is the disc on a fifth wheel trailer? Not the horseshoe int he back of the truck. The disc that slides into it. The fifth wheel I'll need to move a few times yet is 60 miles away, so I can't just walk outside and measure it. Bob La Londe

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The welding and fab shop I use for jobs beyond my equipment's capacity has their jib crane outdoors, beside the overhead door where it can load trucks.

If I had much heavy lifting and moving to do on a hard level surface I'd pick a height-adjustable rolling gantry, low for indoors and high to load trucks. The tripod-supported gantry I built for offroad can be adapted to rolling on asphalt with temporary inverted T wood uprights and diagonal braces. It can have wheeled trailer jacks mounted at their proper height up on the diagonals as retractable casters.

Tripod end supports have some advantages like being free standing so the beam ends can be winched up. I don't think they would be stable enough on wheels, unless braced to the beam which changes the leg loading from axial to cantilevered and increases their necessary weight.

I have an electric hoist but prefer the fine height control of a manual chainfall. It can support enough of a 2000 Lb load to push it into position by hand. An engine load leveler can be used as a sling spreader.

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As I understand it, this is erected by assembling it flat and then pulling the feet in with the hoist to raise one end at a time.
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When I had to set up my gantry in an awkward cramped space I lifted the beam onto sawhorses with the platform stacker, then to stepladder height on cribbing etc on the platform. Another way is to place a folding A frame ladder crosswise at the beam center and set short planks across the first rungs down, them slide and balance the beam onto the planks. After connecting the ends, remove the planks and lift the ladder over the beam. Since mine is made from back to back channels I have to lift only 1/2 the weight for 8' or 1/4 for 16' beam length. A one-piece beam would be better structurally if you can handle and store it. The channels nest together and take up very little floor space standing on end in a corner of a shed.

I've used many a 2x4 as a load spreader to keep from damaging an engine lifting it with chains to the head bolts. My dad might have had a load spreader / engine leveler around somewhere, but I have not run across it yet.

I still want a gantry crane, but they are either way more expensive than I think they should be or don't fit my exact specifications. I'm going to have to build one. Fortunately on a previous visit to my parents commercial property to haul away an old vehicle and do some repairs I found what looks like plenty of I beam to do the job.

A jig crane near the door (I was thinking just inside to protect the hydraulics would be nice, but it comes after a gantry crane. Another smaller one over the South Bend Mill and Precision Mathews lathe too.

I use whatever is easiest for lifting. I looked everywhere for my dad's old chain fall, and after I bought one I finally found his in one of his old trucks. I've got multiple cable pullers, a tractor with front implement forks, & 2 chain falls now. LOL. Pulling a burned out compressor out of an AC condensing unit works really well with a straight pick across the rungs of a 12 foot step ladder and a cable puller. Whatever works. I sold an old Cummins engine a while back and loaded it with a tiny little cable puller, a giant cheater bar, and an old steel A-frame that barely fit around the bed of the truck. It was all I had at that location. Whatever works.

Well back to work. The last set of steel shelves finally arrived for my

40' container shelving. It's hot outside and there is no air flow in the container, so I am in the office just finishing off an ice tea after hanging two of the four shelves int he existing frames. Like I said, back to work, in a minute. Stop pushing. I'll go. Really.

I won't disagree with the "fun"😆

Had a few ideas where dimensions might be found and saw these while checking them out. Your not likely to even procure the material involved here for that price. Saw a $9 listing too in suggestions farther down the page but didn't look any farther...

Might need to touch up a few welds but sheesh , never would have guessed they could be had for that price...

I use whatever is easiest for lifting. I looked everywhere for my dad's old chain fall, and after I bought one I finally found his in one of his old trucks. I've got multiple cable pullers, a tractor with front implement forks, & 2 chain falls now. LOL. Pulling a burned out compressor out of an AC condensing unit works really well with a straight pick across the rungs of a 12 foot step ladder and a cable puller. Whatever works. I sold an old Cummins engine a while back and loaded it with a tiny little cable puller, a giant cheater bar, and an old steel A-frame that barely fit around the bed of the truck. It was all I had at that location. Whatever works.

Bob La Londe

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I made do with "whatever works" for a long time. What I've described was finally satisfactory at low cost. The people across the street had a tripod of 2" pipe to pull and swap engines between old vehicles that inspired me to design and make my own adequate hoisting equipment instead jury rigging which sometimes broke.

I switched from cable to chain pullers mainly to gain more lifting height under fairly low support, and liked them well enough to repurpose the cable pullers for horizontal and angled pulls. A two ton lever chain hoist is much easier to operate near full capacity than a similar cable puller as the reel fills up. A chainfall is necessary when the hoist is too high to reach.

I now have 1 and 2 ton chainfalls, lever chain hoists of 1/4, 1/2, 3/4, 1 and 2 tons, and uncountable cable pullers, mostly damaged from rapid wear of soft steel stampings. When running the sawmill most of the chain hoists are in use for either handling logs or storing lumber.

The enabler was online column loading calculators like this that showed the surprisingly high capacity of 2" x 8' chain link fence posts and 2" x 10' electrical conduit as long as the loading is purely axial. The fence posts have the 2-3/8" OD of 2" pipe, the conduit its ID.

Pipe is stronger but a 100 Lb tripod of it is difficult to set upright when its center of gravity is above shoulder level. A 10' tripod of 2" conduit is manageable without back strain.

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long thin column's load capacity depends on the metal's elastic constant instead of its (greater) compression strength. It will bow rather than crush like a short column.*

The only sign of hoisting overload that I've seen after heavy logging abuse has been the top bolt holes being pulled oval. I changed from hardware store Grade 30 to logging Grade 70 chain to upgrade the tripods for the 4500 Lb logs. Overhead-rated chain of Grade 80 and above has shorter links that won't accept a bolt or shackle pin to adjust length except at the ends. My manual chainfalls don't apply the electric hoist starting shock load that Grade 80 and above will tolerate better. It stretches when overloaded while lower grades may be brittle.

To keep leg column loading axial I put acorn caps in sockets at the bottom and pinned the top connection with the loading shared between both sides. The acorn caps for 2" conduit are old cast iron ones from a fence dealer's junk drawer turned down to press fit inside the conduit. The acorn shape holds on a level baseplate better than ball caps. So far even the thin cast aluminum ones on fence posts have held up unless punctured by a rock.

The sockets are holes in metal base plates, some flared like trumpet horns with hammer and anvil. The downward flare and bent-down corners have kept them from sliding on turf. On loose sand the plates need to be larger and dug in at an angle. I tied the bases together on the gantry tripods. A wye is less of a tripping nuisance than a delta, and easier to reposition.

Although I calculated the load capacity I'm not confident enough to claim a number, or show how I joined the tops of the tripod legs. There are several top bracket versions to copy. I haven't seen mine anywhere, which may be a bad sign. I proof tested my work by trying to pull large stumps.

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*Surprisingly at the load where a column starts to bow its load capacity is the same no matter how far it bends, until it fractures. I saw this lifting a small log with shear legs of 12' 2x4s, the bent leg would remain stable wherever I pushed it with my hand.

full capacity than a similar cable puller as the reel fills up. ...

That job was taking down a neighbor's large oak tree that had fallen against and jammed in another. I pulled the bottom end uphill to free it, using a tripod and pulley to raise the pull angle as much as possible. Dragging the splintered end through the rocky ground took up to 3500 Lbs of measured pull over an hour or so. As the cable reel filled the leverage decreased until I could manage only two clicks at a time and the former Marine not even one, when I took a break and he stepped in to show me how it's done. He had more respect after that.

I measured the pull to stay within the ratings of my light duty towing straps, since I was close in line if one snapped. There were rugs over them but still...

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I've looked at these off and on. Have several cable come-a-longs and a larger winch good for a couple tons. But they all use cables which have their stretchy drawbacks...

Have you been able to determine if some of the more affordable versions are built well enough by now? The reviews for the HF models aren't good enough in my opinion. The high end models are a bit more than I'd like to spend with no particular use in mind, other than a future problem solver. The 1 to 2 ton range would be the likely candidates.

Just some names to watch for deals on both new and used for when I'm feeling flush🙂

I've looked at these off and on. Have several cable come-a-longs and a larger winch good for a couple tons. But they all use cables which have their stretchy drawbacks...

Have you been able to determine if some of the more affordable versions are built well enough by now? The reviews for the HF models aren't good enough in my opinion. The high end models are a bit more than I'd like to spend with no particular use in mind, other than a future problem solver. The 1 to 2 ton range would be the likely candidates.

Just some names to watch for deals on both new and used for when I'm feeling flush🙂 Leon Fisk

---------------------------- Mine are older models, some close-outs, from HF, Northern and a local discount store. The worst is a sample from the local store which they decided not to stock. It's my loaner.

The 1990's model HF 1/4T has a sticky brake that makes lowering difficult when used near its capacity. It's useful at lower loads for its short height and low weight. In a horizontal pull it doesn't add much line sag to take up before pulling. It can lift practically anything in a "normal" house without industrial machine tools, plus a snow blower and at least one end of a riding mower.

My discontinued Northern "Roughneck" 1/2T and 1T are a little nicer than HF's. The 1/2T is also light and compact and if I didn't lift large logs and pull stumps would have been plenty for home and hobby use. Weight adds up when carrying the hoist plus sling chains in one hand and a tripod in the other. I bought the 1T, pre-owned, for its 12' chain for pulling leaning trees. With it at the smaller end of a 4500# log and the 2T a ways in from the big end they lifted it without exceeding their ratings.

The 2T is in the shed and its raining. IIRC it came from the local discount store because I didn't like the ratchet drag of the HF which would interfere with running unloaded chain in and out when the tripod blocks a full handle swing. The one I bought is similar, not as bad, so I hold the knob from turning with the other hand to activate the ratchet. Otherwise rocking the handle just rocks the chain instead of taking up slack. Pulling on the chain would work too except that I keep my hands off it when a heavy log might slip off its support.

Except as noted they all raise and lower a full load without difficulty, the difference is ease of moving the chain in Neutral. The load mustn't drop when switching from Up through Neutral to Down and releasing the brake may take some fiddling.

The 3/4T is an older Jet with no rubber on the handle. I like its smoother operation but it's no longer available. It has a separate lever that completely freewheels the chain. Really except for the very poorly machined sample they all work pretty well, with a slight nod to Northern if on sale or a closeout. This is the sort of tool I like to try before I buy, which favors HF.

The 90+ Lb carbide grinder is hanging from the 3/4T right now while I mount it on the frame of a hydraulic press I used only once, to help a friend.

The HF 1T chainfall is also nice, not too awkward to raise overhead to hang while on a stepladder and twice as fast as the 2T. It's more difficult than the lever hoists to use horizontally because the hand chain doesn't feed in well, but they can't lift above your reach. I store and carry them and slings in unbreakable rubber horse stall buckets which keep the hand chain out of the dirt in use.

When I was cutting firewood I carried the 3/4T for moving logs and pulling the tractor or trailer out of mud holes. It's large enough for the trees that died before reaching the crown and not too heavy for the hand carry in from the trail, a good balance between size/weight and capacity. My test is how hard it is to hook onto a hanger overhead with one hand. A 3/4T can lift the rated load of a full sized pickup truck. It's the one I usually grab for any hoisting, such as placing the carbide grinder on its new stand.

I bought the 1T for the 12' length of its chain and the 2T to handle mature oaks I hadn't expected to fall until one blew down. Otherwise the 3/4T has done all I needed, above that finding a strong enough hanger becomes a problem. In a test half a ton pulled my truck through a snowbank. If starting over I'd first buy a 3/4T lever for horizontal and short vertical pulls and a 1T chainfall to hang from higher beams, as the lever hoist can't lift a compact sling load much above shirt pocket height.

After using the manual lever hoist once to free the stuck tractor I bought an electric winch. If the ground is firm enough the lever hoist and tripod can lift a wheel above the root or rock that caught it, then the winch pulls past it.

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Yeah, using them for long pulls is a bit tedious. At least it wasn't one of those Hi-Lift Jacks. Have to be pretty desperate to use one of them to unstick your Jeep from a mud hole you shouldn't have attempted😉

Thanks for the info/review for your lever hoists. I'd not noticed them having different features before for neutral and such. Jet was one I had thought to be somewhat on the high end. Though it sounds like it may well be worth it.

I'll keep watch for a deal with your thoughts in mind👍

I'll keep watch for a deal with your thoughts in mind👍 Leon Fisk

--------------------------- I can't remember the last time, if ever, I returned a Harbor Freight purchase. I do test them to their ratings during the return or warranty window. When I bought hoists elsewhere it was because they had other goodies to shop for, not due to HF issues. The minor brake release complaints I mentioned are different for each of my hoists. Sorry, I can't rate what's currently available.

I'm more able than most to remedy/improve things I don't like by machining or rewiring, rather than returning it, unless there's a good alternative elsewhere. These days a different brand at higher price may come from the same Chinese factory.

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I do the same. Often play the Ebay game, figuring an item maybe fine or maybe I'll have to fix it. It's my way of gambling. Most of the time it's a win and the times it's not I'm not out any money I'd not planned on losing anyway.

I read through the HF reviews to find what people are complaining about. Often times it's something to be expected from said item at the price point. Other times you can tell it won't hold up to what you want to do with it and I'll look elsewhere...

I do appreciate your thoughts on stuff, always well thought out and honest👍

I used the "most expensive" Harbor Freight cable puller for years, and it worked great. It did finally have some failures, damage would be more accurate, but it was due to gross abuse on my part. Still I looked for something "better." The one I moved the container with is a Jet, I believe, and it has also been abused, but not for so many years just yet. It seems to be holding up just fine. I would not touch the Tekton brand cable pullers. The ratchet pall/catch looks like cast crap, and they have negative reviews about that very part. I'm not sure where my Harbor Freight puller is these days, but at least in memory it looks about the same as the much more expensive Jet.

As I'm sure you've figured out, the HF quality can change in the blink of an eye for both better or worse. The Lot # is a clue. When the number changes so does the product...

I've a couple small single cable pullers I use for easy stuff. Like when another human pulling on a rope would be helpful but not much more. I've a brand new 4000 lb double cable version that Dad bought but haven't needed to try out. It might be pretty good seeing he's been dead near 20 years now.

I've a larger winch with 5/16, maybe 3/8 cable on it that I've pulled vehicles out with. Something Dad made or found many years ago. It's seen a lot of use and still works okay. Has two speeds on it by moving the handle to a different gear end. Grease fittings too.

Thanks for your warning and thoughts👍️

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