Order in the shop!

I am moving part of my "stuff" to a new room I built. I think I'll just take in the inside repair stuff, fasteners, power tools, and things not related to automotive or welding, which will stay in the garage. A lot of fasteners, and a lot of them in the hang up plastic containers they come in.

For those, I can put rows of nails and just hang them.

I have three of those plastic drawer things to organize my nuts and bolts and screws. Yeah, right. I need to sit for about a whole day and go through everything just to reset it to zero, and get things straightened out.

I went to the Borg, and they want $20+ per each of those plastic cabinets with the drawers. And they don't have any really big ones much bigger than

16 x 18 or so. I kind of like them, as one can see what's in them through the clear plastic, but they always end up jumbled. I have some of those that have a cleat and hang on the wall, but they always end up filled with sand and dust as they are open on the top. They're okay for the welding hardware and rough stuff, but hard to find anything small like a machine bolt or a particular screw.

I have been thinking of making some bins, but then again, there's the same problem of them getting dirt and stuff in them over time, and it's hard to see what's in there once the second layer of STUFF is started.

Anyone have any ideas that won't cost an arm and a leg like those spendy drawer organizers sold at suppliers? $20 for plastic is bad enough, but the amounts they want for some of these is more than I've paid for a used car.

Maybe it's time to do the old baby jar thing, but my wrists aren't the best.

Ideas appreciated.

Steve

Reply to
SteveB
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plastic organizers are not sturdy enough for nuts and bolts, so for more serious quantities, it is better to go for steel drawer cabinets, huots etc. But in a pinch, smaller plastic 3-drawer cabinets will work.

i
Reply to
Ignoramus11444

I have close to 100 half pound tobacco tins on the open side ( other side of the studs is sheathed with OSB) resting on horizontal 1 x 2" strapping - 3 per stud space. The plastic capped tins that salted nuts etc. come in would also work. When I had my shop in the cinder block garage at the previous house, I made a rack of 1 x 3" verticals with 1 x2" horizontal strapping mounted to the wall. I avoid glass jars at all costs due to danger of breakage. Pill bottles are handy for small items. Gerry :-)} London, Canada

Reply to
Gerald Miller

Put out a call for the old IBM punch card cabinets. Usually 20 drawers each, each drawer can be removed individually , rolller glides, heavy duty, and are easily subdivided.

They are about the size of regular filing cabinets, but the drawers are much shallower. Make GREAT tool and parts cabinets

Gunner

"Pax Americana is a philosophy. Hardly an empire. Making sure other people play nice and dont kill each other (and us) off in job lots is hardly empire building, particularly when you give them self determination under "play nice" rules.

Think of it as having your older brother knock the shit out of you for torturing the cat." Gunner

Reply to
Gunner Asch

Sam's has a very nice Metro clone bin rack setup for $99. Just put the small packages of stuff in the bins. I've got one setup and will probably get another. Bin for wood screws, bin for bolts, bin for electrical parts, bin for tape, etc. Works well.

Reply to
Pete C.

I'm a traditionalist. I use coffee cans - they have lids, and fit on shelves. But I'm also a radical cutting edge kinda guy - I put labels on them, with an ideal of a label that can be read from any side (typically

3 ways works OK). I also use some other containers we have a lot of through typical use - big stuff goes in cat litter buckets, etc.
Reply to
Ecnerwal

I use plastic containers with lids. Large plastic containers that is. If you have a Big Lots near you, they have some Stirling (I think) under bed containers with lid. They are about 15" x 30" x 8". I think they were about 8-bucks.

For some of the larger stuff like grinding wheels and buffs, I make dividers with strips of ply wood that interlock like cardboard separators in a case of wine.

I also use square food containers without lids and fill the under bed tray so they stay pretty much in place. The large under bed thing sits on a shelf and I only have to open a single lid to see what's inside. I label the under bed thing with "Wood/Metal screws", "SAE Bolts/ nuts" etc.

Often HF also has specials (less than 20c per) on those rear hang parts bins and I get a bunch of those and put them inside the under bed thing.

I also have two carriers for the rear hang parts bin. I got a 4' x 4' sheet of 3/4" particle board, mounted to a base with some casters and side supports then stapled the parts bin racks to the 4' x 4'. I have a curtain made from a table cloth from a swap meet (80c) that I drop over the lot to keep them dust free.

Dave

Reply to
Dave, I can't do that

I picked up a bunch of those cheap HF grey bins that mount on the wall. Looked at them and decided that they would collect a bunch of dust and crud. So I hit the Wal~Mart and picked up some of the heavy clear vinyl they have. Mounted the bins and then made a narrow shelf over the top and attached the vinyl to the shelf. I cut the vinyl so it overlaps with

2' sections (like a flap door barrier) Now the crud doesn't collect in the bins and I can look in and grab what I need easily.
Reply to
Steve W.

On Mon, 18 Feb 2008 08:28:09 -0800 (PST), with neither quill nor qualm, "Dave, I can't do that" quickly quoth:

I got some of those but haven't put them up yet. I'm trying to figure out a dust control system first. Maybe a stitched fabric cover with plastic insert will do it.

Has anyone tried their new $97 parts bin on wheels? It has been in their email ads for the past couple weeks. I'm no longer happy with the concept of open parts bins any more, as my woodworking is way too dusty. (Bins sold separately? Feh!)

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Reply to
Larry Jaques

I keep a small stock of hardware in plastic drawers in the shop and the excess in food containers etc out back in the shed. They're sorted by thread size and material but not length or head type since it's easy to pick out matches to the one I'm holding. Stainless, brass, aluminum and plastic are all in the same drawer because they are so easy to tell apart. The only exception is separate drawers for short screws which otherwise fall to the bottom under the long ones.

This greatly reduces the number of bins needed; almost every size I need from #0 to 1/2" plus metric fits in two 13" Acro cabinets.

I made a stepped sorting gage with coarse threads from 1/4-20 to

1/2-13 on one end and fine threads on the other. Nuts and washers can be quickly sized by slipping them on and screws by visual comparison. It's also a nice work sample to take to job interviews.

Jim Wilkins

Reply to
Jim Wilkins

i use the ziploc resealable lunch containers usually taking a minute to label them at least by project using masking tape and a sharpie

for shelving i make a wall of milk crates and lash them together on their side with tiewraps and it allows me a lot of size flexibility to put large tooling or small parts in the same cubbyholes

Reply to
Brent

Plastic Sterlite drawers stacked on top of each other with different containers (cutoff plastic bottles ect) holding various items in each drawer. Best system I've used to date for misc fastners ect. Also have smaller drawer system for reloading/flytying bench. Good product for the money. ED

Reply to
ED

I have them stacked 4 high and the bottom one has bowed out enough that the drawers fell out of the tracks. Someday it will have plywood reinforcements screwed to the sides.

Reply to
Jim Wilkins

"Steve W." wrote

I like it.

Reply to
SteveB

That's pretty close to the way I do it too.

Large ones for power washer, HVLP painting gear, etc.

Smaller ones for angle grinders, soldering equipment, sanders.

Two large ones full of fiberglass materials and tools.

Lots of small peanut butter jars for fasteners, etc

Four large heavy duty shelf units paired back to back against one wall with most stuff stahed there.

Works well.

Richard

Reply to
cavalamb himself

Canning jar time ? Normally cheap by the dozen or more.

Lids can be screwed under something.

Mart> I am moving part of my "stuff" to a new room I built. I think I'll just

Reply to
Martin H. Eastburn

I use B-52 Film cans myself :-) They are more Man like. :-)

Mart> >

Reply to
Martin H. Eastburn

Nah - your stuffed. If you have a logical, ordered mind, you would have worked it out years ago. Just accept the chaos....the only thing I fond that works is the plastic crate things that retail for a few bucks each - I throw things of the same class in them, and then use stick on labels to get some vague idea where things are.

So saying this, I just got back from the hardware store where I had to buy some shade cloth fixing strips - I KNOW there is a box of them, somewhere....

Regards,

Andrew VK3BFA.

Reply to
vk3bfa

Jim Wilkins wrote: ...

'You have a picture? Bob

Reply to
Bob Engelhardt

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