OT Car Problems OT

Try getting an intake gasket kit for an AC Bristol on a Saturday.
Reply to
Ed Huntress
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As if price, reliability, maintenance, PrinceOfDarkness affiliation weren't enough, eh?
R&R engine, replace core? Kinda reminds me of replacing spark plugs in '64-1/2 Mustang with the 260cid V-8. The Flat Rate was something like a day.
I loved Mom's car, otherwise.
Reply to
Larry Jaques
That was a whole 'nother life, eh? Parts replacement for pennies and parts were engineered to be repaired.
Reply to
Larry Jaques
Renault's better ideas. (Renault owns nissan).
Reply to
clare
Try getting a rebuilt water pump for a Cockshutt 30 for $5.40 in 1968., or for a Budda 6 cyl in a 1940-something farm drainage tileing machine. And at an apprentice mechanics wage, rebuilding the water pump for a '53 Chevy was likely still cheaper than buying the rebuilt at the time
Reply to
clare
20 minutes on a good day with the 260 or 289. Now a 428CJ in a '68 or '69 - that is a "horse" of a completely different colour!! Manual recommends removing both engine mounts - one at a time. It CAN be done on a cold engine with just the right combination of precision U-Joints and extentions - and using a 2 foot piece of vacuum hose to get a few of them started into the holes. A couple of colourful incantations also appears to help.....
Reply to
clare
Take a look at
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for a "blast from the past" - and an idea of why it might be done, and how!!!!
Reply to
clare
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To replace the clutch in an MGA (1956-1963 IIRC), according to the manual, you have to remove the seats, the floorboards (plywood) and the trans tunnel. Removing the floorboards is a real pain, as they have long machine screws through threaded holes in the frame rails which stick down and get rusted from splatter, and bent if you drive over rocky roads.
This all to pull the engine and transmission as a unit -- the bell housing is part of the transmission casting, so you can't split them until the engine/trans is out of the car.
In reality -- if you work at it (and are young and limber), you can (with one friend as a helper) remove the tail shock mount bolt working from under the car with just the gearshift tower bellows and the relatively small plate to which it attached, and then the shift tower itself (four bolts and it just pulls up). Then you take a spare old fan belt and hook it over the coupling flange to the driveshaft, so you can pull up on the tail to take stress off the bolt -- or to get it lined up so the bolt can go back in.
I learned all of this after the first time I had to replace a clutch.
Also -- while it is out, replace the synchronizer rings in the transmission. :-)
Another gem from the manual involves disassembling the trans so you can do the above.
"Withdraw the three sliding rods and forks." "Note the three balls and springs released in consequence."
"Released" as in "Launched at high velocity" unless you use a wadded rag to catch them. :-)
And the final part of almost every entry:
"Reassembly is a reversal of the above."
As far as things in the dash -- you just reach under the dash and can get to everything. :-)
Enjoy, DoN.
Reply to
DoN. Nichols
You want to try it on a Rover 2000. My brother made the mistake of trying to start his while it was already running, and it took the starter drive right off the starter. We managed to split the trans from the engine far enough to get a wire hook between and fish the starter parts out the top. Changing the clutch would be a different story.
Or try it on a Renault R12. Front wheel drive, longitudinally mounted. We ended up re-shaping the trans hump at the firewall with a hammer so we could get the transmission far enough back to get it out without removing the engine.
Or the old Austin/Morris Mini. The clutch cover needs to come off to get at the clutch - the manual says the engine needs to come out. I took all the bolts out but the one that would hit the frame - I loosened it and cut it off with a hacksaw between the cover and the housing so I could get the cover off with the engine in place. Left the bolt out.
To remove the lower control arm on a Mystique, the engine needs to be unbolted and raised to remove the bolts - that go in from the TOP. I loosened the bolts, pushed them up as far as they could go, and cut the bolt heads off - then replaced them from the bottom, putting the nuts on the top - because lifting that engine, in that engine compartment, is NOT a simple job.
As we always said, sometimes you need to cheat to eat.
Reply to
clare
A meat cleaver? Really? Amateurs. I use a sturdy 5-in-1 paint tool.
Reply to
Larry Jaques
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Ouch! What failed in there? The starter ring gear which is heat shrunk onto the flywheel? (At least in an MGA). On an MGA, pretty much everything else in the starter is removed by two bolts through the rear engine plate and into the bell housing (which, as I mentioned previously, is a part of the transmission casting, not a separate part). (Of course, you also have to remove some wires to the cable-operated high current contact points for the starter switch.)
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That reminds me of changing the oil filter. The filter was a pleated felt and wire screen assembly in a drawn steel cover which came with the car -- held on by a long through bolt. To get the last few turns to get that free, you had to loosen the engine mount bolts and jack up one side of the engine.
When I saw that the MGB had a casting which bolted in place of the original filter, and to which the filter and housing were attached from above -- just reaching down beside the engine -- I got that casting and added it. Unfortunately, the hoses to the oil cooler in front of the radiator were hardened with heat and age, and one failed rather soon, so I had to get new hoses too. :-(
I don't know the Mystique, but perhaps I should be glad of that, based on what you say here. :-)
Or to just get the car working again on your own. Nobody was paying me to work on the MGA -- I was doing it for my own satisfaction, back in the days when you did not need a degree in electronics and computers to repair a car. :-)
Enjoy, DoN.
Reply to
DoN. Nichols
It's the old "crash" starter. or reverse Inertia drive. It is fastened on by a little clip at the end, then there is the spring on the helix, and then the gear. The gear pulls in TOWARDS the starter to engage - and if you engage it with the engine running, it can take the clip off and shho the spring, helix, and gear into the bell housing.
Never had that issue on mine - and it was the early 850. On the newer engines they got a spin-on.
Did you have the oil thermostat too? LubriTherm or something like that.
AKA the Mondeo -
The mini was my first car. The Rover was my older brother's 6th ot 7th. The Mistake was my wife's car before the current Taurus. The transmission pan was on the front of the trans on that critter too - between the trans and the front frame crossmember. Needed a crowbar to shift the engine back on the mounts to get the pan off.
Reply to
clare
One friend with a late '40s Morris Oxford used an axe to modify the floor enough to do transmission work. Had I tried that on my'49 I would have had Fred Flinstones car - while driving, I could watch both front wheels go round and when driving in rain I had to wear a raincoat!
>To remove the lower control arm on a Mystique, the engine needs to be >unbolted and raised to remove the bolts - that go in from the TOP. I >loosened the bolts, pushed them up as far as they could go, and cut >the bolt heads off - then replaced them from the bottom, putting the >nuts on the top - because lifting that engine, in that engine >compartment, is NOT a simple job. > >As we always said, sometimes you need to cheat to eat.
Reply to
geraldrmiller
Instead of flushing the whole system, try flushing the heater core by itself.
Reply to
guillemd53228
Ouch! Fun to retrieve the parts. :-)
Sorry -- I was still talking about the MGAs -- 1500, 1600, and 1600 Mk II (1498 cc, 15?? cc, and 1622 cc -- I never had the plain 1600, just the Mark II.)
The casting I mentioned was for the MGB (starting at about 1800 cc.)
I did have a MGB engine in my 1600 Mk II at the end of its life. Made it rather peppy, even with the original MGA's SU carbs.
Nope -- oil simply went from the filter through the cooler and back into the engine. That was present only on the 1600 Mk II AFIK.
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Another which I don't know.
My first was my fathers old MGA 1500 (1957 model, FWIW). After that, a Hudson Hornet for a little while, until I got the 1600 Mk II, and after that (my first *new* vehicle) a BMW 2002.
Enjoy DoN.
Reply to
DoN. Nichols
Possibly a dumbass question, but "had a lot of work done to it" raises some warning flags. Are you absolutely sure that all hoses and belts were retur ned to their proper positions? I can imagine a check valve preventing the c oolant from flowing backwards through the heater core...
And it's a nice change to have some non-political stuff once in a while :>
Reply to
rangerssuck
My mini was rusted under the crossmember the seat fastened to. The floor sheet metal formed a little "scoop" down there, and when I hit a water puddle it was "thumbs down" to plug a couple holes that were provided by the factory in that crossmember ot everyone got a shower, and the windshield got washed on the inside. I think I finaly screwed a licence plate over the hole from below.
Reply to
clare
Is the heater valve like the one at
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If so, definitely no thermostat action in the valve - it's not a "ranko" valve.
Reply to
clare
Ennit-tho ? No the guy that did the actual work useta live across the little dirt road from me . Pretty good wrench , bought out a local shop and has made it go . Built a 5.0 Ford motor that "he said" would turn 17K , but he had the revs limited at 12 IIRC .
Reply to
Terry Coombs
Friend of mine had a 1600 twin-cam A. The engine was toast - but the head was good - and he wanted something that would stay together, so he redrilled an 1800 "B" block to fit the twincam head - 2 DCOE45 carbs, choked down to perfectly match the engine, and a set of custom made headers. That little bugger would GO!!! It fit so tight the joke was when he was finished doing anything under the hood he'd pour a gallon of water over it. If the first drop of water hit the floor in less than a minute, he'd left out something important - - -
Another friend bought a '53 TD that had been modified to put an 85HP Ford flattie in it as a drag car - and was never finished. We reconstructed the skuttle and firewall and installed an 1800 B engine, trans, and rear end. It moves out pretty good, and looks good too. Took us a couple hours dummying up the motor position to keep the SUs inside the hood and the starter out of the frame, while still keeping the tailshaft of the trans close to the center of the chassis. Right now it needs a rear wheel cyl replaced - he was supposed to get it done this spring and I was going to "babysit " it for him.
Mabee next summer. He also has a Fiat 600 with an 800 engine init, and is part way through building an Isetta 350.
Ford called it the Contour in North America. Really a nice driving car with the 2.5 liter DuraTech 4 cammer under the hood. The stock water pump was a plastic impeller that would not stay together over 5000 RPM - with that problem out of the way it would wind up to well over 6500. I have NO idea what the top speed was, but at 100MPH 160KPH) it would still downshift from overdive to direct and gain speed. Closest thing to a Rover 2000TC in ride and handling - and a whole lot simpler to keep on the road. The electrical system was a wee bit dodgy - I had a couple connectors heat up and burn off over the years we owned it - but other than that it was pretty good.
The last good car to come off the BMW assembly line (2002Tii) but even then, it was NOT an easy car to maintain.
I went from the mini to a '63 Valliant that I did up the 170 leaning tower of power into a 206HP 125+ MPH machine, (6500 RPM in top gear) then a '69 Dart 225 that would go all day at 104MPH - but not a bit faster.(would not wind tighter than 5000RPM)
From then on I kept my vehicles pretty well stock - the '53 Coronet Red Ram had a semi-grind cam and a 60 thou overbore, - but was still a pretty mild "Hemi"
Reply to
clare

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