OT(?) Sheared lug nut stud

That depends on how much clearance there is in the rotor. Can you get the old stud out the back and the new stud into the hole without dismantling the disc from the hub? If so, you're golden. Otherwise, it's time to tear it down.

Oh, looking online, I see that they have the floating rotor. Yes, you'll need to remove the caliper so the rotor comes off and exposes the hub. A few quick taps on the broken stud with a hammer and drift punch will press it out the back. It doesn't take much.

A washer. Using 2, with a coat of grease between them, is better.

Yes, get an uncapped nut with a flat top. Invert it to the flat is against the washer and pull the new stud into place. If there is extra length, which there should be without the rotor in place, you can use two washers. Grease them for an easier time. Use the impact gun to press it in via the threaded stud.

Once you have the new stud you can try to match it to a standard metric hex nut and a few metric or inch washers. jsw

Thanks, too bad about the brakes. Just trying to guesstimate how much time it'll take tonight. (The little lady doesn't like that I'm driving with only three lug nuts.. )

Hmm OK, I was thinking of putting the conical side of the lug nut against the washer... thinking about some sort of self centering.

George H.

Absolutely not! You want the force spread out to reduce friction and allow all the power to pull the stud in. I've pressed in studs on long axles sitting in a 5" vise, with the stud descending into an open

1/2" drive socket, so you know it doesn't take that much force.

I can imagine. I used to be able to do it in well under an hour, including writing up the ticket and pulling stock.

Jack up the wheel involved, remove wheel, remove 2 caliper bolts, pry caliper cylinder 1/4" back into caliper and remove caliper, remove rotor, hammer out stud, install stud, run up the nut on the washers, remove nut, reinstall rotor, reinstall caliper, reinstall wheel, add extra lug nut, hop in and hit the brakes several times to reseat the caliper, close out the ticket, then give vehicle to the customer. Piece of cake, duck soup.

Yes. Wherever you got the capped lug nut and stud.

If you were trying to open the center hole in the washer, that would do it. But it puts force into moving outward rather than down.

Within reasonable limits increasing the area does not reduce the friction.

From Marks Handbook, "Under moderate pressures the frictional force in proportional to the normal load on the rubbing surfaces. It is independent of the pressure per unit area of the surfaces."

It is not intuitively obvious.

Dan

You will need more than 2 washers unless you do what I do - and use the rotor. Pop off the caliper, pop off the rotor, knock out the stus, insert new stud from behind, install rotor backwards on hub, install a couple greased washers and then install an open end lug nut, cone side out and crank it down. Total job can be done in 15 minutes if you've done it a few times - absolutely no more than an hour if you have the nut, stud, washers, and grease as well as the required tools at hand.

Speaking of wheel problems, how do you properly seal rim leaks on steel and aluminum wheels? I haven't had particularly good luck with Slime on my garden tractor's rusty rims, and now one of the car's tires is slowly losing air along the bead. jsw

On rims where looks were not important like your tractor tires, I have sanded and painted them.That gives a smooth surface to seal against.

Dan

Pull the tire off the rim and get an air grider with a "prep pad" - clean the entire bead - all the way around. Then treat it with a conversion coating - phosphoric acid -then a coat of urethane paint. Make sure the rubber bead is totally clean and lubricate with vegetable soap - like GuGlyde, and reinstall the tire. Every 5 years or so should do the trick - in other words every time you change tires.

If you use tubes make SURE they are radial tubes - or bias tires. Michelin Aistops work for radials - but you are limited to about

65mph. Make sure you dust the tire and tube well with Talc to prevent heating the tube.

He said one of his car tires is loosing air along the bead. On a lawn tractor you can use anything that holds air - heat and ballance are not an issue. Slime cannot seal a bead leak - pretty useless on sidewalls too. Pretty good on tread leaks but a good kevlar boot to prevent puncturing the tube works even better for thorns etc.

It's faster than it should be. Since it has no suspension it can bounce itself airborne where the steering and brakes don't work. I tried chasing the kids around their ATV course fast enough to get air over the jumps. I should have put the loader bucket on and put some air under their jumps.

But the problem now is the SUV.

Clare suggested scrubbing and urethane paint. He also sent some Canadian winter weather that makes painting outdoors unlikely. The tractor's tires were glued on with something yellowish that made them hell-owish to remove, even for a tire store after I gave up. Google brings up other bead sealers. Is there a good simple balance between difficult and effective? jsw

Yellow stuff is trim adhesive - a "solution of last resort" for guys who don't know how to do things right. - or weather-strip adhesive. Both work for a few weeks.

And that nasty snow that's headed my way came up from TEXAS of all places!!!! We had -18C overnight - got about 4 inches of snow over the last 2 days here in Waterloo - more to the south-east down by Lake Erie, and north west up by Lake Huron.. Seems like there is a "splitter" somewhere down there leaving us in the "shadow".

As for other bead sealers, there are black latex bead sealers that do a reasonable job - IF the beads are clean.. Those abrasive "prep disks" on a die grinder are the cat's meow for cleaning up both alloy and steel rims.

Thanks, latex is safer than urethane to apply indoors near a wood stove. Is your 'prep disk' a reddish Scotchbrite pad? jsw

red , purple, or brown - the green ones are a bit too fine.

No, you won't. They're generally threaded all the way down to the splines, which seldom protrude past the hub.

Here are pics from Google for 2002 Toys:

Slime will seal the bead, too, if the wheel is off and rotated to allow the slime that far up the sidewall. Speaking of which, one of my tires is still slowly leaking after sliming. I should pull it and find the leak. It may be a bead leak, too.

TIP: Never buy a -small- bottle of Slime. The big one is much cheaper per ounce, and you'll always find a wheel which needs it. Just maybe not this week. ;)

Vroom, vroom! Love that sound. Even on a mower.