OT(?) Sheared lug nut stud

Right, Elephant Snot! But that's absolutely -Hell- to remove.

We got snow last Friday and it still isn't gone. I'm missing days of work and it sucks the big one. Work's hard enough to get in Winter here as it is.

As are most Scotchbrite pads, on the manual end.

Break the bead on that side. If it's a steel rim take a STIFF wire brush to the rust and scale on the bead. Brush on a coat of "rusty metal primer" then a coat of rustoleum type paint. Then while the paint is still sticky re-inflate the tire and seat the bead.

If it's aluminum it is a bit more difficult. Basically you do the same steps, BUT the aluminum will probably be VERY pitted. For that grab a can of bead sealer (usually at the commercial counter of your local FLAPS) Runs about 12 bucks for a large can. Apply a coat to the rim and a coat to the tire. It is basically rubber cement with a binder added. Re-Inflate and the leak should be gone.

Now IF you wanted to do it the best way and don't want to buy new rims: Dismount the tires, bead blast the bead areas to remove all the crud, then TIG up the bad areas and file/sand them back to smooth. Spray with the proper paing and re-assemble.

As far as lawn tractor stuff. Tube them. BUT clean the rim very well first, if you used slime be prepared to replace the rims, that stuff rots steel worse than salt water....

A lot of them are not threaded where they go through the rotor, which is thicker than 2 of most washers.

When the slime freezes at the bottom of the tire when parked, it makes for an awfull rough ride untill it thaws and redistributes.

Worth pulling the tyre off and checking for damage. I had a number of flats when pulling out of the drive a turning sharp left and parking to clear the drive, I'd come back and find the tyre flat. When the tyre was pulled the bead was damaged which could only have happened at the fitters so I went back to them, they looked up the fitment record as I couldn't find the receipt, and they gave me a new tyre and fitted it, no more problems.

I had bead leaks on my motorcycle , cured by sanding all the built-up crud off with 220 grit sandpaper . A clean and somewhat polished surface both on the lip and the adjacent surface is the key . Gotta do the wheelbarrow ... oh , and if there's any crud like rust flakes or whatever on the tire itself , that's gotta be cleaned up too .

I wouldn't know. I last mowed my lawn 3 weeks ago, before the first freeze. It'll sit there and rot for months now, thankfully. ;)

They obviously forgot to lube the tire when putting it on the rim. It's nice that they repaired their mistake at the correct price.

Granted, I've been away from the industry for nearly 30 years, but I'd very seldom seen any protrude much at all from the rim. There's no need and it costs extra money for the extra meat, so most are properly designed. I'll bow to your more current knowledge. (grudgingly, tho.) ;)

Not yet. I bought some old wheels for the tractor and demounted the tires to do that, but the electrical problem with my truck has consumed all my spare time this fall. I finally replaced the coils and ignition module and the check-engine light shut off, though the old module tests OK. The error codes didn't pin down the problem very closely.

When I bought the shop manuals for it I didn't notice the Engine/Emissions Diagnosis Manual, which applies to every engine and vehicle Ford made that year and was listed separately from the Ranger books. I got one from eBay this fall. The damn thing is 3-1/2" of onion-skin paper and hard to understand beyond the simplistic trouble-tree diagnostics meant for parts-swappers spending the customer's money. It didn't address the suspiciously large dwell angle I saw with a scope.

I now have a run list in the computer of every wire in the engine controls and custom-machined connector pins and test points to measure their resistance and observe that the signals match the graphs in the manual. Several connectors were corroded and at least one was open when I started. One of the ignition module screws broke off so I machined a drill jig to clean it out, then when I loosened the power steering pump that was in the way its rusty pressure line cracked. At least it failed in the driveway rather than on the road. The old truck keeps getting newer as I replace parts. jsw

So, engineers have finally figured a way to put the "shotgunning" into code for electronic troubleshooting, did they? It must have been those pesky used-car engineers, huh?

Hmm...

But you saved a lot of money buying it, right?

They did lube it actually as I always watch them when they're fitting the tyres, somehow the fitting tool caught the bead and sought of tore it and that bit got jammed in, enough side pressure at that point such as in a tight low speed turn and it leaked.

The same happened to me on the tractor. The tire shop didn't have a machine the right size and pried off the glued tires with irons. After examining the rusted 1980's rims and the gouged beads, I just put in tubes. Brushing on Slime before mounting the tire didn't help.

The Harbor Freight mini manual tire changer turns an impossible job into a very difficult one.

The cast aluminum handle is known to break, and while they will replace it they won't rush you one while you have the vehicle immobilized on a jack. I added two steel reinforcing straps on the outside. jsw

I can knock the rust off, but was hoping to find a clean and polished surface in a can. jsw

Well, I suppose that's possible.

Look to a can of sand called a "sandblaster", sir. It's a spray-on but isn't a rattle can.

That means one of two things. Either the installer didn't drop the first section of the bead below the seating rim, or the rim (or tire) was improperly designed.

The error codes didn't pin down the problem very

In 1970 I went into an Army course on repairing -very- complex electronics. They told us that there was a troubleshooting procedure but they had found that having repairmen memorize how the circuits work (in excruciating detail) was more effective, plus we wouldn't have to carry around and risk losing the manuals which were classified.

At that time the draft gave them a large enough pool of engineering grads to make it practical. After the draft ended they had to revert to board-swapping. The 40-week course gave them four graduates out of almost 100 starters. The others were allowed to enter less demanding courses.

After I got out I went into the custom test equipment industry, specifically for the first generation of automotive engine control electronics and antilock brakes, and found out how hard it is to identify faults without adding excessive monitoring circuitry which has an equal chance of failing. You can detect a lot of problems easily by measuring the power supply current, for example, but an out-of-spec value doesn't tell you what caused it.

I figure the depreciation cost on a newer vehicle would be $1000 - $2000 a year, so I'm ahead if I spend less than that per year on an old one. Most years nothing breaks. jsw

Gunner Asch on Thu, 12 Dec 2013 08:03:49 -0800 typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:

"Time to replace the truck. Now, do we do it all at once, or one part at a time?"

-- pyotr filipivich "With Age comes Wisdom. Although more often, Age travels alone."

Most likely an untrained labourer installing the tires.