Your expression "chafing" runout means very little to me. Further, you
> seem to assume that your spindle bearings are the source of your runout.
> Many little drill presses have low quality chucks which themselves can
> easily have 1/32" of runout. If your chuck can be removed from the spindle,
> then try directly indicating the spindle with a dial test indicator. If its
> runout is below .002 TIR then the problem is the chuck.
> You can buy multi-step pulleys at McMaster-Carr but those are die-cast
> zinc pulleys and they have a lot of runout. I have given up on buying step
> pulleys and now turn my own on a lathe. There is a HUGE difference in the
> vibration of a machine if you have a good belt and pulleys that run true.
> Anyway, most small DPs vibrate like crazy anyway so if you don't care just
> order from
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and be done with it. The pulleys should
> be aligned so their axes are parallel and they are at the same height. It
> isn't that uncommon to add a jackshaft to a DP. I suggest you go look at
> a new one on a showroom floor to see how they do it.
It is a cheapy Chinese mini DP, $40 at the Homier traveling tool show. Something like
4 1/2" center-to-column and with a 4 speed set of pulleys on top. Very standard and low- end, can't lock the quill in place. The motor is 1700 rpm (not 1725). Works well but the lowest speed has this tacky chafing sound first time I ran it, so, must be some runout.I imagine one could place a larger single gulley wheel on the front spindle, or something like that...? I know a variable speed DC motor and control board would be really expensive, after all the searching I've done. Doing a jack shaft is too much for me.
Slow for a spinning wheel strop with leather on top of the disc. Used for honing wood- working chisels and handplane blades. Don't want the steel to turn blue because it's too fast.
I have had the arbor made with threading, and the wooden discs are glued up but it's not finished quite yet. All that should make more sense.
Alex