pock mark in cast iron skillet

Cadmium free silver solder would be my first choice.

Remove 333 to reply. Randy

What type of silver solder? It looks like plumbing solder might melt at oven temperatures. The rest of the stuff I have is electronic grade, and also has a fairly low melting temp as well.

Having looked up information on silver soldering cast iron in the past it was suggested that the surface needed to be heated to a high temperature to burn off the carbon at the surface or the silver solder wouldn't stick. That would likely make your repair impractical.

JB weld?

I can use any amount of heat, up to the melting point of the cast iron itself. I can drill out the pock mark to a full hole, it really doesn't matter. The thing is from the trash. The only brazing rod I have had some haz-mat fees included in the purchase, so I will not use it near food.

I can use any amount of heat, up to the melting point of the cast iron itself. I can drill out the pock mark to a full hole, it really doesn't matter. The thing is from the trash. The only brazing rod I have had some haz-mat fees included in the purchase, so I will not use it near food.

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If you don't mind drilling and countersinking and are skilled with a ball peen hammer you could plug the hole with a rivet.

The traditional braze filler or cast iron is nickel. This is used to repair cast-iron machinery parts, so google for advice on how to dpi that.

Joe Gwinn

Plumbing solder that is lead free has a small amount of silver maybe

Real silver solder is a brazing alloy. They melt at over 1000 deg F. you need the work peice red hot.

Look at McMaster-Carr # 7761A15 It's 45% Silver, 30% copper, 25% Zinc, NO lead or Cadmium

Spot drill and then fill in the dimple might work best. You will need flux to braze.

I get a HAZMAT fee on argon and nitrogen, they put that on everything. It's just a scam to get an extra $8.00 everytime I go to the welding store. Read the MSDS to see what you actually have.

Randy

Remove 333 to reply. Randy

This where I get lots. There doesn't seem to be a real standard to declare what solder is, and sometimes the ingredients are just not listed. I have some 5% silver solder for example. the other 95% is a mystery, it just doesn't say.

Is this the same, similar to the flat HVAC brazing rods?

$50/oz? How good/pretty is this stuff on stainless?

Yeah, that's just robbery on gasses. The fees here seem pretty random. The state of Il is somehow really scared of bronze for some reason.

On Thu, 6 May 2021 21:22:02 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader snipped-for-privacy@MUNGEpanix.com wrote as underneath :

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Thats still soft solder not silver solder (hard solder) - the other ingredients are probably Sn 94.5%, Cu 0.5%. In your application I would probably rout out the hole walls to slight negative angle with a ball diamond burr then just bang in some nickel with hammer and punch, dress it flat, done properly that would last you for ever! C+

I have some flat brazing rods for HVAC work that do not need any flux on copper. The Silver stuff I have is round.

Depends on how good you are with flux and a torch. Pricey, yes. but you don't need much. A 1 OZ roll lasts me awhile.

Remove 333 to reply. Randy

My first full size oxy-acetylene torch was $2 at a garage sale. It's Crasftman branded buy probably from victor. It had the cutting attachment and one normal torch head. Didn't even need new gaskets. Did get a new cutting attachment nozzle, so that was like $17.

I'm guessing the seller just wanted a home for it. I like that it has a patina already and doesn't make your hands smell like s*it.