pock mark in cast iron skillet

Got a I suspect new-ish Lodge cast iron skillet with a small void, maybe 1/16" in diamter. What's the laziest way to fill this in? I'm thinking
about just peening in some soft steel wire or copper in there to just plug it. burned up oil will coat in in the end. Have access to an oxyacetylene torch and pickup any sort of rod being sold. Not really sure what type of cast iron us used in these. It makes black dust if you grind it and it takes as while to get all the dust off.
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On Sun, 4 Apr 2021 04:57:17 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader

Cadmium free silver solder would be my first choice.
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What type of silver solder? It looks like plumbing solder might melt at oven temperatures. The rest of the stuff I have is electronic grade, and also has a fairly low melting temp as well.
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On 26/04/2021 01:11, Cydrome Leader wrote:

Having looked up information on silver soldering cast iron in the past it was suggested that the surface needed to be heated to a high temperature to burn off the carbon at the surface or the silver solder wouldn't stick. That would likely make your repair impractical.
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I can use any amount of heat, up to the melting point of the cast iron itself. I can drill out the pock mark to a full hole, it really doesn't matter. The thing is from the trash. The only brazing rod I have had some haz-mat fees included in the purchase, so I will not use it near food.
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"Cydrome Leader" wrote in message
I can use any amount of heat, up to the melting point of the cast iron itself. I can drill out the pock mark to a full hole, it really doesn't matter. The thing is from the trash. The only brazing rod I have had some haz-mat fees included in the purchase, so I will not use it near food.
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If you don't mind drilling and countersinking and are skilled with a ball peen hammer you could plug the hole with a rivet.
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On 25/04/2021 7:11 pm, Cydrome Leader wrote:

JB weld?
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On Mon, 26 Apr 2021 00:11:04 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader

The traditional braze filler or cast iron is nickel. This is used to repair cast-iron machinery parts, so google for advice on how to dpi that.
Joe Gwinn
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On Mon, 26 Apr 2021 00:11:04 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader

Plumbing solder that is lead free has a small amount of silver maybe 2%, that's not what you want. Not all lead free solder has silver, it can be made without it. There are a bunch of different alloys out there.
Real silver solder is a brazing alloy. They melt at over 1000 deg F. you need the work peice red hot.
99% nickel alloy is used to weld cast iron, they have 99% Ni rod for TIG or stick welding.
Look at McMaster-Carr # 7761A15 It's 45% Silver, 30% copper, 25% Zinc, NO lead or Cadmium
Spot drill and then fill in the dimple might work best. You will need flux to braze.
I get a HAZMAT fee on argon and nitrogen, they put that on everything. It's just a scam to get an extra $8.00 everytime I go to the welding store. Read the MSDS to see what you actually have.
Randy
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This where I get lots. There doesn't seem to be a real standard to declare what solder is, and sometimes the ingredients are just not listed. I have some 5% silver solder for example. the other 95% is a mystery, it just doesn't say.

Is this the same, similar to the flat HVAC brazing rods?

$50/oz? How good/pretty is this stuff on stainless?

Yeah, that's just robbery on gasses. The fees here seem pretty random. The state of Il is somehow really scared of bronze for some reason.
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On Thu, 6 May 2021 21:22:02 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
snip

Thats still soft solder not silver solder (hard solder) - the other ingredients are probably Sn 94.5%, Cu 0.5%. In your application I would probably rout out the hole walls to slight negative angle with a ball diamond burr then just bang in some nickel with hammer and punch, dress it flat, done properly that would last you for ever! C+
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