Reducing steel rod diameter (2023 Update)

The hole is 0.41 inch, and can't be altered. I need to have a sliding fit on a rod, 18 inches in length, for this hole. Closest I can find is

7/16 inch, or 0.4375 inch. 3/8 inch is too small.

Now the puzzle is how to reduce that diameter by methods which only available tools: a drill press, a hand drill, pedestal grinder, hand files, abrasive papers.

Obviously, I won't get much accuracy, but that's okay. One idea I had would be to chuck it into the drill press and push sideways with a file to the right diameter.

Hope that doesn't make you cringe. If it does, make a suggestion.

Reply to
Ted Bennett
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Just a bit over 10mm!!

Bob AZ

Reply to
Bob AZ

How about this:

A .413 diameter (size Z) drill rod 36 inches long. Water hardening steel. Price $5.37 from McMaster Carr.

Page 3533 P/N 88755K68

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If that is too large, then you can also get 13/32 (.04063) for the same price.

Now all you need to do is cut it to length.

Also available on O1 for a few more bucks.

Reply to
Roger Shoaf

Swing the table aside if necessary, lower or raise the head until you have the proper spacing and make up a simple pointed "center" which attaches to the table or the base of the drill press, spin that sumbitch as fast as you can and using 60 grit Emery cloth...work your way up and down the spinning shaft. Measure for size, use Dykem or magic marker to indicate the highspots, and keep a going. You only have .27 to go..and it will go quicker than you think it will.

Gunner

"There are hardly any excesses of the most crazed psychopath that cannot easily be duplicated by a normal, kindly family man who just comes in to work every day and has a job to do." -- Terry Pratchett

Reply to
Gunner

Chuck the rod in the drill and clamp the drill to a table or saw horse. Sandwich the rod in between the file and a piece of wood, preferably with a groove in the wood to guide it, lock the trigger on the drill, and move your file/wood up and down the shaft.

When I was a kid, I honed down a valve stem using a drill and knife sharpening stone.

Reply to
Gary Brady

You might try a hunk of size "Y" drill rod (0.4040").

McMaster Carr can deliver it overnight for about $10, including shipping.

Their part number is: 88695K37

LLoyd

Reply to
Lloyd E. Sponenburgh

Oh... sorry...OR 13/32" at 0.4063" for a closer fit. ('bout the same price... cheaper than hours of sanding)

McMaster #

8893K43

LLoyd

Reply to
Lloyd E. Sponenburgh

Cringing, drill rod, McMaster-Carr. X - .397 Y - .404

13/32 - .406 Z - .413

Ned Simmons

Reply to
Ned Simmons

Chuck it in the hand drill and spin it against the grinding wheel, moving back and forth. Your biggest problem will be getting it even. I.e., a consistent diameter. Bob

Reply to
Bob Engelhardt

how about designing a hollow cor bit with cutting edge on inside of what most would consider a hole saw.

Reply to
stalt124

How about a little more information so we know what the f*ck you're talking about ?

Reply to
Snag

How about a little more information so we know what the f*ck you're talking about ? Snag

---------------- You can follow the link to a 16 year old posting. I don't understand why people dig up these zombies. When posters ask for some secret way to reshape steel without modern machinery I'm tempted to tell them to find a blacksmith.

The PBS program on Ben Franklin showed forging the rounded end of an old fashioned key in a half-round die. A core box plane can cut a half round groove of any arbitrary diameter, to make a sand core for casting the iron die block.

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Reply to
Jim Wilkins

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