I have several Italian .22LR Olympic-style "free pistols" I am repairing for the collegiate pistol team I help coach. These are Pardini PGP-
75's, which are bolt action:To set the "headspace" (gap between the bolt face & chamber), they use a hardened eccentric bushing at the base of the bolt handle. It rides in the slot in the action, and rotating the bushing adjusts the headspace. If the headspace is too large, you get unreliable ignition, and/or reduced accuracy.
The bushing position is set at the factory, and clamped with the bolt handle, which screws down on top of the bushing. Both the bolt handle threads and the bushing are treated with some sort of 30 year old Italian threadlocker (maybe even epoxy). I've experimented with a variety of solvents, and acetone & lacquer thinner won't touch it. Methylene chloride (paint stripper) softens it up, and allows cleaning off the exposed threads & loose bushings.
On some pistols, the bushing slips & just needs to be repositioned. On others, the bushing cracks & has to be replaced. Spare parts are very scarce, and we only have a few extra bushings.
I have one pistol where the bushing is OK, but must have slipped during installation. It works OK, but the headspace is well past the nominal upper limit. I got the bolt handle off with a strap wrench, and expected that the bushing had slipped, but it is firmly stuck.
I've had it soaking in paint stripper for a month now, but I suspect the gap between the bushing & the bolt stud is too small to allow enough solvent in to undo the bushing in less than geologic time.
The other approach for dealing with most threadlocker is heat (~ 300F?). I can make a specialized soldering iron tip that I can slip or clamp over the bushing to free it. The iron I currently have is temperature controlled, but at 700F. I could also go & buy a cheap resistive iron and use it with a variac to control the temperature down at a better level.
Thank you for anyone who has stuck with me so far. Here's the question:
I would really like to salvage the bushing. What's the best way to get it off without wrecking the heat treat? It's quite thin (< 0.5mm), and I will be applying heat on the outside to get through to the inside.
The best options I've come up with are:
1) Use my 700 degree iron, with a tip mounted with a small brass block with a hole that is a slip fit over the bushing. If I c*ck the tip at a slight angle to get good thermal contact, I should be able to pull the bushing off as soon as the threadlocker lets go, and then the bushing should fall free from the heat source.2) By a cheap iron, and make the tip clamp securely onto the bushing. Then use a variac/dimmer to sneak up on the temperature. I have a set of Tempilac sticks that I can use to tell when it has reached certain temperatures. I also have an infrared thermometer, but I don't think it goes hot enough for this. With this approach, I am unlikely to get the bushing much hotter than required to melt the threadlocker, but it will be at that temperature for much longer.
3) Contact Italy and try to get more replacement bushings. That could take months, and is not a sure thing. One reason I want to salvage this one is the spares we obtained earlier may have been the dregs. Some of them are not very eccentric, and many are not a very good fit on the bolt handles.4) I can certainly continue to leave the bolt soaking in paint stripper. I have other projects to keep myself busy, and if I can repair all the other pistols, the pressure will be off. It doesn't seem to affect the metal, and if I keep it sealed up, I can try to wait it out.
5) Quench after getting it free. Given how hard they are, quenching presumably wouldn't make it much harder. However, it could become more brittle, and likely to crack.6) Make new bushings. I have no idea how involved this would get. I did a rough hardness test on a cracked one using hardness files, and it was ~ RC60 (which may be why it cracked...). I don't have any experience or equipment to do sophisticated heat treating. I'm assuming that heat treating will probably distort them a bit, and/or mess up the surface finish enough that a light grind would be in order. I can certainly rig up a Dremel as a tool post grinder for that. The big advantage with this is that I can make a bunch. I know of at least one other college team that has even more dead ones than we do.
Other ideas & comments?
Thanks!
Doug White