Removing frozen bolt

I do some of my best work in my office clothes before changing into blues...God watches over us then! Kroil is mail-order only, get some NOW in anticipation of the next adventure.

Spray some "PB Blaster" on it. Good stuff. Randy

Kroil is the best penetrant I've ever used. I've also heard good things about LPS's product but haven't used it myself. LPS may be easier to find depending on your location.

I have a very old turnbuckle. One rod came out, luckily the one that is threaded in the reverse direction of a common bolt, so I'll be able to get a

3/8 common turnbuckle piece to replace it if I ever get it out. I managed to twist the other one off. Now, it is down to a nub I can just barely get hold of with Vise Grips. I heated it a couple of times yesterday and dripped 3 in 1 oil in there and let it cool. I still can't get the thing out. Trouble is, the long end is between the two forks of the turnbuckle and inaccessible. I can drill a hole sideways through it, but don't think I can put enough torque on it to get it loose. Any better penetrants? Methods? Or am I going to have to carefully drill this out? I'd like to save it, as it is somewhat of an antique.

Steve

"SteveB" wrote: (clip) Methods? Or am I going to have to carefully drill this out? (clip) ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

1.) Grind a flat on the stub end where you have been applying the Vise-grips. 2.) Carefully center punch the flat. 3.) Using a small drill, start a hole, and point the drill to correct any remaining centering error. 4.) Drill through the broken stub, using increasingly larger drill bits, until you have removed most of the stub. Stop when your drill starts to touch the threads on the turnbuckle body. 5.) Clean out the remaining shreds with a tap.

On Sun, 16 Dec 2007 09:16:58 -0800, with neither quill nor qualm, "SteveB" quickly quoth:

Spray liquid freon (or other chiller spray) on the threaded section, immediately apply pinpoint flame to the turnbuckle at the joint, spray the threads with Kroil, and then turn. Be sure to use some aluminum anti-seize compound on the replacement.

-- Seen on a bumper sticker: ARM THE HOMELESS

Heat it to bright red, let it cool. That has a way of busting rust like no penetrant can do. Don't try to twist it while it's red, you'll just twist it off. You can try twisting on it when it's still hot but no longer showing any color.

This nearly always works for me. On the rare occasions where it doesn't, then I soak it in Kroil for a day or so. The heat-cool cycle creates some micro-cracks in the rust that the Kroil can get into.

Id have a go from the otherend. Id cut a screwdriver slot in the inner bolt end ( assuming you can get to it), put your screwdriver through the other end of theturnbuckle into the slot. heat the siezed end red hot with a smallhot flame whilst turning the screwdriver. It should come loose Keep going back and forth till its free enogh for you to turn some more thread out. Then go back to using your mole grips to finally remove.

On Sun, 16 Dec 2007 15:44:44 -0800, SteveB penned the following well considered thoughts to the readers of rec.crafts.metalworking:

What ever happened to the fine art of drilling out a broken threaded fastener?

It's Sunday, and I'm all dressed up. And going out this evening. Did stop and get some JJBBlaster or something like that. Couldn't find KROIL. I'll try the Blaster on there one more time. Problem is, that the piece sticking out is a nub now, and not a lot to grab on to. There's enough on the other end, though to either cut a screwdriver slot, or to double nut it, then see if there's enough room to get a universal socket in there. Will do the heat to cherry red thing, too. If that don't work, about all I can think of is to weld a piece of rod to the end of the threads inside the tuning fork part, and hope it will pop loose. And if that don't work, I'll toss it.

Steve

Just had to do it. Couldn't stand NOT to do it. I left the Blaster in the truck, so went to fetch it. Blaster was in my hand. The turnbuckle was still in the vise. I squirted it and went to check to see how my drywall is drying. It isn't, so I added one of those large propane heaters.

Came back, clamped the vise grips on there and got a quarter turn. Went back and forth ever so carefully so as not to lose what little knob I had (no pun intended) and worked it all the way out. Chased it with a tap.

And all in a pair of good slacks, too.

Like we used to say in the sixties, "Man that is some good shit."

Steve

This one was in the tuning fork portion of a turnbuckle. Only about 1/4" was sticking out. The rest was between the forks of the buckle. Getting it chucked up and perfectly straight might not be a big deal for someone. Just not me.

Steve

Yep, Kroil is great. I ordered a gallon based on recommendations here and I love it.

I really need to give credit where credit is due here. I heated it up, and then put 3 in 1 oil on it and let it sit. Then I hit it with Blaster when it was cold and let that sit for fifteen minutes. It might have come loose with the 3 in 1 and been ready to move. But I got two new bullets in my bandoleer, so I'm happy.

A lot of times in such situations, there is NO solution. It's a coin flip. It'll work or it goes in the trash. But when there's a chance to snatch victory from the jaws of defeat, one final try, it's nice to give it your best shot of whatever you got.

It's also nice when it works.

Steve

If Kroil is better than Blaster, I need some.

Steve

Lemme get this straight. I saw some stuff today made by Pyroil.

Same or not the same as Kroil?

Steve

That it is.

Next time you face a similar situation, and the part can be placed in a small container, lose all those other methods and soak the item in Coke, or other cola drink. Even 7-Up. The phosphoric acid will dissolve the corrosion, allowing the parts to be taken apart with fingers. Penetrating oil may lubricate the joint, but it does little towards actually dissolving the crud that makes things stick.

Wash with solvent first if the parts are oily.

Harold

On Sun, 16 Dec 2007 22:42:17 -0800, with neither quill nor qualm, "SteveB" quickly quoth:

Not even. Kroil is made by Kano Labs. Eastwood also sells it.

It looks like they're having a sale on it right now, too. Two 16.5 oz Industrial size cans for $16, including shipping to your door. Such a deal!

-- Seen on a bumper sticker: ARM THE HOMELESS