repair pin holder

When you buy old equipment you always buy a repair job...

An 1-1/2" pin holds the hoe on the tractor with two 1/2" steel plates 3" apart. The pin is shot and these two plates have a hole that is now an oblong slot.

I'm thinking of a rotabroach in my mag drill. Should I drill clear outside the damaged area with a huge drill? I don't know if my 3/4" drill chuck will drive something this big.

2 3/8
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or can I weld the hole shut a bit, clean up with a carbide burr in a die grinder and use a smaller bit? This would still be a seriously interupted cut, but not much metal to remove. (I'd have to find a 1-7/8 like this offer)

1 3/4
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This will only get the first plate. Next I'd need an arbor extension i could turn on the lathe to go deeper and get the second plate. Anybody done this?

Or, is there a better approach? Surely, others have had to do this repair.

After I have something round and square, i plan to weld in a bushing back to

1-1/2"

Karl

Reply to
Karl Townsend
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Maybe you already know, but I think that portable line boring machines are made for this sort of thing. They're somewhat expensive if purchased new -- (you can find youtube videos of York brand machines in action). You can also find them used or improvise and make one yourself. Here's a search of the dropbox files for "line boring" for some improvised solutions:

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Reply to
Denis G.

Maybe you already know, but I think that portable line boring machines are made for this sort of thing. They're somewhat expensive if purchased new -- (you can find youtube videos of York brand machines in action). You can also find them used or improvise and make one yourself. Here's a search of the dropbox files for "line boring" for some improvised solutions:

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yea, line bore equipment would be nice. I'm trying to make do with what i got - a mag drill.

karl

Reply to
Karl Townsend

Do you have room to add 2, 1/2" plates over the munged holes? You could drill or bore them in the shop & weld in place. Should be able to align them as accurately as you need. Bob

Reply to
Bob Engelhardt

McMaster Carr sells 1.5 dia graphite rods 12 inches long. Not especially cheap at $70. But you could use a carbon or graphite rod in the hole when you fill in the hole with hard facing rod. Ask Ernie over in SEJW how he would do it.

Dan

Reply to
dcaster

So after welding, is the graphite rod trapped?

Wes

Reply to
Wes

I think it would be. But graphite is pretty easy to cut or could be driven out.

Dan

Reply to
dcaster

=A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 Dan

I think that graphite would oxidize (ie catch fire -- unless you took great care to exclude oxygen).

Reply to
Denis G.

I think that graphite would oxidize (ie catch fire -- unless you took great care to exclude oxygen).

**************************************** No it doesn't do that. Thee are these rods you hook to an oxygen source and your pick up battery to get them going and you can cut up aluminum dump truck bodies for scrap and those things don't hardly effect a block of graphite. I bought a box of graphite scraps form some shop that makes things with cnc equipment probably aircraft related maybe patterns I don't know but I got a whole box for $20 not cylinders or rods unless five inch diameter by one inch long counts as a cylinder.
Reply to
fran...123

Carbon arc cutting rods are also consumed. I think that Dan was suggesting using the carbon as a refractory mold to help rebuild the worn out part of the bore with arc welding deposit (not cutting material away).

Reply to
Denis G.

Carbon arc cutting rods are also consumed. I think that Dan was suggesting using the carbon as a refractory mold to help rebuild the worn out part of the bore with arc welding deposit (not cutting material away).

************************************* Though I am not looking at the group where the post started I know about putting a piece of graphite where you want a void, in an enlarged hole and welding the hole smaller instead of welding the thing up solid and then boring a new hole. I have done that on a small scale occasionally though mostly lately it has been copper and rectangular holes. I was just giving an example of my experience of oxygen lots of sparks and graphite. Yes the arc gouging electrodes do burn away though I have never tried that in an inert gas to see if it is the oxygen in the air or some other mechanism.

Fran

Reply to
fran...123

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The way i fixed bad bushings on construction machinery without line boring them was to burn out the hole to fit a piece of DOM tubing through the hole that had the id of the original pin. You can either use a length of tubing that will go through both holes or use two short pieces and put the new pin in place to hold them when you weld in the dom sleeve. If you use a full piece you can burn the center section out and then grind the burned face and take out the burning slag.

John

Reply to
John

If you are thinking of welding up the old hole I would just get a piece of brass pipe and weld around it while running water through the pipe to cool it.

John

Reply to
John

Hey Karl - keep it simple. If you got the room, make up 2 plates with

1.5 inch holes in them, and weld them in - would depend on which side the bucket tongue comes in of course.. If you want to be real fancy and chew up lots of time, then cut/grind off the old plates and weld in new ones......then turn up new pins, including a few spares....

Andrew VK3BFA.

( I know its not sophisticated, but hopefully, I havent said anything totally stupid.........)...

Reply to
Andrew VK3BFA

Hey Karl - keep it simple. If you got the room, make up 2 plates with

1.5 inch holes in them, and weld them in - would depend on which side the bucket tongue comes in of course.. If you want to be real fancy and chew up lots of time, then cut/grind off the old plates and weld in new ones......then turn up new pins, including a few spares....

I think Andrew is spot on. I would however consider making a grease-able / renewable bushing to take the wear and end the cutting and grinding for ever.

This might mean a little more work in the short term, but down the road when you have a failure in the field that needs to be fixed "NOW" you will be glad you invested a bit of time.

Reply to
Roger Shoaf

Nah - disagree. Get the thing moving, if it lasts five years, good. Make up spare plates if you like - even simpler then. Dont redesign the thing. BTW Karl - you gonna live long enough to do all the projects ........I know I wont....

Andrew VK3BFA

Reply to
Andrew VK3BFA

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