Replacing the Arbor Bearings in a Delta Homecraft 8² Table Saw

This could work, especially if I cut a V-slot in the bottom of the clamp, to accurately locate the 5/16 shaft. Or I may just fabricate this from a hunk of mild steel.

Joe Gwinn

Well, if you can turn that shaft...

True, but I've had finicky 2-jaw pullers which required more hands than I was born with.

It might be easier to clamp it on its side in the mill vise and "drill" half a hole with an end mill that intersects the clamp screw centerline.

-jsw

Still too close to the housing, under the table. And everything bounces, so it's hard to generate sufficient force without bending something. Pusher is easier.

Yes. This takes three hands.

I actually have better luck with three-jaw pullers, unless only a two-jaw will fit. But it's still pretty fiddly.

I think that we have proven that to use a gear puller, one must be a Hindu deity.

Joe Gwinn

Yes. I was thinking of using a 5/16" end mill to make a cylindrical seat. But I don't know if beam clamps come with suitable proportions for a roll pin that's at least 3/4" long, and yet narrow enough to be able to work with 1/4" from 5/16" shaft to housing.

Joe Gwinn

That is true but I think a hole that just reached the hinge pin would be sufficient. One hole/side could hold the push-out pin and the other could receive the roll pin. Or just remove the latter block and make a custom block with saddle and hole.

Jim's beam clamp is simpler, especially if you already have one lying around :)

OK.

"Fiddly" is the perfect (sans-expletive, anyway) word for working with pullers.

Indeed. ;)

I didn't, so looked at one at Home Despot. Even the smallest size,

1/4", is too wide to really fit, and the clamp screw is at an angle, the better to clamp the beam flange.

I've settled on the approach of making my own little tool from a piece of 1018 cold rolled rectangular bar, which I have on hand.

Joe Gwinn