rock jaw-crusher, other rock crushers

I was thinking more of an index line down the length of the stock aligned with one of the chuck jaws as a reference , but a pass with the DI would be a good way to insure the alignment .

Actually holding the part on offset centers and using a drive dog would work well too . But yes , you have the idea I was trying to convey . I used the chuck to offset the cam on my home made QCTP but it's only a couple of inches long .

Thanks everyone for coming back on this one. Not sure can take it anywhere at mo. - but appreciate knowing how I would go about it...

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The decisions break down to buy, build or find another interest. Build involves an investment in space-consuming machinery that hopefully retains or gains resale value (that's the excuse). For me the advantage of learning machining was becoming able to take on all of a project instead of only the electrical part. It might not have been done if it required assembling, coordinating and paying a team.

On the better-run projects I've seen each member had a self-contained portion of it that didn't need much interaction (disagreement) with others. Dealing with the company machine shop required defining problems in their terms, machine to these dimensions and tolerances, instead of expecting them to come up with a solution to someone else's problem. That was usually my job.

I was thinking more of an index line down the length of the stock aligned with one of the chuck jaws as a reference , but a pass with the DI would be a good way to insure the alignment .

Actually holding the part on offset centers and using a drive dog would work well too . But yes , you have the idea I was trying to convey . I used the chuck to offset the cam on my home made QCTP but it's only a couple of inches long . Snag "They may take our lives but they'll never take our freedom." William Wallace

-------------------------------- That's in the class of problems I assume can be solved when making it, cross that bridge... They don't hold up the design process, though I may make them first to be sure. If someone else has done it there must be a way. The solution may be having to make a locating fixture, as for machining a crankshaft.

I use 5C collets in square or hex blocks to accurately machine the ends of round rods. Vee blocks on a mill would do for eccentric center holes in fairly short shafts.

IIRC that is how I made the eccentrics for my compost screen shaker. I started with a short length of round stock offset in the four jaw, centre drilled the right end, turned down the mid section; then through drilled for the shaft and cut it in half andused the small diameter in the fixed journals and the larger eccentrics in the screen frame rails. The two sections are keyed to the driving shaft by set screws in dimples in the shaft Now that the City has institutrd a green bin program I will probably transfer my screening plant to Junior who lives out of town.

There's been quite a lot of responses since "thanks" message. That there is this article

I have unwittingly stumbled on something which is a big subject. Thanks all for inducting me.

There's been quite a lot of responses since "thanks" message. That there is this article

I have unwittingly stumbled on something which is a big subject. Thanks all for inducting me.

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Despite R.C.M being an interest group for hobby and small shop machinists I tried to show you the substantial investment involved in building useful-sized powered machinery, instead of luring you to join us. I had soon banged into the limits of what I could build with a saw and drill press. Several past posters here stubbornly resisted spending for a lathe and mill and continually suffered the resulting frustration.

I was helping a non-machining inventor with the physics, chemistry and engineering to copy the Rossi E-Cat and trying not to discourage him until I found and showed him hard evidence it was either a scam or experimental error.

I have not read this thread at all, but... I saw a few comments about materials, and I was reminded of some "salvage" from rock boring machines, and the teeth on the heads were some sort of carbide. Now, wait. Before you lecture me that carbide is to fragile, bear in mind that there are probably different forms of carbides. Just like there are different forms of steel and even different forms of HSS steel.

Sorry, that's it. That's all I got. I wasn't that interested at the time and flipped to another feed.

Yeah AR400 and AR500 are tough, but I seem to see a post in this thread as I was clicking it read that dismissed those for this application. Those would have been my first guess on the basic premise of this thread.

I should have made it more of a question. Many rock-crusher jaws seem to be made out of Hadfield manganese steel -

14%Mn. Intensely work-hardening. Guessing that as can be cast and get the properties, enables the ridged surface which presumably helps the breaking action.

Great hint about wear-resisting plates. IF took this anywhere, go see if can blag offcuts. Don't put the cart before the horse - get a working version going asap.

In the meantime, with needing to clear a small level accessed via couple of risers of large rocks from previous blasting without using enough blasting medium (as explained by ex-miner member), ordered

• "feathers"/splitting wedges - 14mm=9/16ths" yes, but also 10mm=3/8ths"

• smaller SDS battery / cordless SDS drill

The unusually small 10mm "feathers" - hopefully SDS drill can do 10mm holes in the hard granite with cordless drill - whereas 14mm my instinct says (and various online commentators say) that is a bit of an "ask". Need is to break up blasted-out but not shattered boulders only inches dimension apart from length up to 3ft - so can easily move to the raise and lower down in cargo-net (tramming level below - cannot simply throw down).

"Smaller" cordless SDS drill - needs to easily go into a bag which can be carried down the ladders into the mine. Easy to put out-of-the-way until needed. And cost - be something you could cope with loosing as it's a bit of an envirnment down there.

Dust - instinct is to do bigger version of bottle used when mag-base drill for steel in workshop. Use scriber pushed through cap of plastic bottle like milk bottle, and spray enough water onto drill to make drilled material into a slurry (as you also do with watering can when using a gasoline "Stihl saw" to cut rock).

No idea how this will pan-out in reality. Sometimes you have to lunge at something. Whilst none of this is necessary, it leaves some of us lugging largish boulders along the overhead level and lowering to tramming level.

Thanks everyone for hints.

Wear resistant plate for excavator buckets, chutes, etc... Late much-appreciated Randy Zimmerman showed me welding replacement wear-resistant plates into large excavator bucket when visiting Canada

15 years ago.

A physicist I knew explained it is actually quite readily achieved to get fusions - over a period of hours you can produce a few atomic events

- at vast consumption of power running the device which causes them. FWIW.

A physicist I knew explained it is actually quite readily achieved to get fusions - over a period of hours you can produce a few atomic events

- at vast consumption of power running the device which causes them. FWIW.

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Several thousand volts is enough to overcome proton repulsion. So far the Farnsworth Fusor has not progressed past a very inefficient small scale lab demo.

's an example of what can be built with only a drill press.

Flying saucers powered by static electric ion repulsion are also possible, on a small scale.

Rossi used a brazed copper water pipe reactor in which the hot hydrogen could reduce the copper oxide scale inside to atoms and blow them into the nickel. My first clue was that the copper found in the nickel had the isotope ratios of the natural element. It should have been different if it had been transmuted from nickel.

I had to be careful of which projects I agreed to work on. Some engineers and inventors had inadequate training outside their specialty, or of the practical aspects within it. Until I bought a house I was limited to what I could make in my father's wood shop.

In the meantime, with needing to clear a small level accessed via couple of risers of large rocks from previous blasting without using enough blasting medium (as explained by ex-miner member), ordered

• "feathers"/splitting wedges - 14mm=9/16ths" yes, but also 10mm=3/8ths"

• smaller SDS battery / cordless SDS drill

The unusually small 10mm "feathers" - hopefully SDS drill can do 10mm holes in the hard granite with cordless drill - whereas 14mm my instinct says (and various online commentators say) that is a bit of an "ask". Need is to break up blasted-out but not shattered boulders only inches dimension apart from length up to 3ft - so can easily move to the raise and lower down in cargo-net (tramming level below - cannot simply throw down).

"Smaller" cordless SDS drill - needs to easily go into a bag which can be carried down the ladders into the mine. Easy to put out-of-the-way until needed. And cost - be something you could cope with loosing as it's a bit of an envirnment down there.

Dust - instinct is to do bigger version of bottle used when mag-base drill for steel in workshop. Use scriber pushed through cap of plastic bottle like milk bottle, and spray enough water onto drill to make drilled material into a slurry (as you also do with watering can when using a gasoline "Stihl saw" to cut rock).

No idea how this will pan-out in reality. Sometimes you have to lunge at something. Whilst none of this is necessary, it leaves some of us lugging largish boulders along the overhead level and lowering to tramming level.

Thanks everyone for hints.

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I found that my Makita rock drill cut satisfactorily fast in NH granite with a 1/2" bit and bought the splitting sets to match. An adjustable nozzle spray bottle of water was enough to control the dust without wasting the limited water supply, with a bit of soap added to make it wet the fine powder better.

Great hint about wear-resisting plates. IF took this anywhere, go see if can blag offcuts. Don't put the cart before the horse - get a working version going asap.

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Perhaps a demo model with long pipes for handles, which allow measuring the required force.

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I've used Deuterium to tag molecules so they could be traced with MRI to where in the body they were metabolized and disappeared.

In my dad's stuff is a chain cutter left over from his hardware store. It's lever operated, and I seen have seen it cut through 3/8 grade 70 logging chain (along with other sizes and grades). We used to stock the stuff in bulk. I don't think I could cut the same chain with my biggest bolt cutters. Wouldn't it be nice to know what that chain cutter is made of. It might not be suitable rock crushing, but it might make for a good lead. I'd cut a piece off and let one of you guys send it out to be x-rayed, but I have no idea how I would cut it. LOL. ;^) Well, and someday it might be handy to have a chain cutter in the shop.

P.S. I haven't been ignoring you guys. I've been busy, and I haven't had much to add.

I've got a couple SDS drills which are generally adequate for drilling concrete, and with some patience the odd piece of rebar or rock in the mix, but when I get to hard stuff I break out the 1 in Milwaukee spline drive. I wouldn't want to carry that in a bag down a ladder deep into a mine shaft.I don't like carrying it from the shop to the truck, but I have carried it up and down a few ladders when it was the only tool that would do the job. When I had to drill 60 year old well aged structural concrete the SDS drills just didn't have the umph to push a big drill very far very fast. That's why I bought the bigger 1" spline drive. I was drilling conduit runs through two feet of structural concrete in an old post office building built in the 1940s. I've never drilled anything harder to drill. I think you are going to have to count on fault lines to help if you plan to drill anything really hard with a relatively easily bag toted "cheap" SDS drill.

I never even considered a cordless rotary hammer. Is there one that will actually do real work? I do have a couple cordless hammer drills, and I've worn out many over the years, but a real rotary hammer? I am prepared to be impressed when you post the video of one blasting through rock.

I never even considered a cordless rotary hammer. Is there one that will actually do real work? I do have a couple cordless hammer drills, and I've worn out many over the years, but a real rotary hammer? I am prepared to be impressed when you post the video of one blasting through rock.

Bob La Londe CNC Molds N Stuff

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I bought an import corded hammer drill the size of a 1/2" wood drill and found it useless in granite with 1/4" and 3/16" masonry bits. The 1" spline drive Makita cuts faster with 1/2" bits.