I have a 5 sheave pulley (all different diameters) made for a 1.125" shaft. I need to adapt it to a 1" shaft. I know I've seen spacers or adapters but can't recall what they were called so can't search for one. Shaft has a 1/4" key.
Any ideas?
snipped-for-privacy@aol.com fired this volley in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:
They're called "bushings". Make your life simple and get a 'split' bushing so you can just use a taller key.
Lloyd
The spacers you are thinking of are called bushings. A good hardware store should carry them. The one you want will be made from rolled steel sheet. It will probably plated with a very thin coat of zinc. It will have a gap running lengthwise. This gap is to accommodate a key. You should also be able to buy at the hardware store a key that is rectangular instead of square. These types of key are made for just what you are trying to do. The key will be 1/4" x 5/16". Eric
I've *made* what I needed. For that small a step-up, you need a sleeve with a gap cut in it for the key, and a custom key which is 1/16" taller than the 1/4" width.
Good Luck, DoN
How much torque will this key have to hold? The key is much more likely to rotate than one with only a single centered shear plane, unless you can firmly attach the split bushing to the 1" shaft, perhaps with silver solder or dowel pins. I'd also make that custom key a snug fit in height to help it resist rotating, or drill and tap extra setscrew holes.
jsw
12hp gas engine. the machined steel pulley(s) has 2 set screws; 1 on
I've built vee-belt pulley drives for a 5 HP and an 18 HP gas engine, though the 18 HP one was an accessory drive, a hydraulic gear pump, that didn't absorb all the engine's horsepower. Both of them pushed the limits of a 1/2" belt and the shaft keying enough to require modifications after relatively brief use. For home use if the design is difficult I accept a short lifetime on things I can easily fix.
They worked as designed in normal operation but failed under overload conditions I couldn't adequately predict, getting stuck for the bucket loader I added to my tractor and lugging the engine at low speed against a high inertia load on my sawmill.
The fix on the tractor was a lower displacement pump spinning faster, on the sawmill an idler pulley belt tensioner so I could slip the belt to spin up the inertia of the motorcycle wheels the blade runs on, and decouple the engine before shutting it off. One of the pulleys was new and the paint in the groove grabbed the belt despite loosening the idler. Scraping it off helped a lot. jsw
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