Sockethead cap screw questions

Most of the socket cap screws on my motorcycle have press in plastic inserts - its a 82 Honda CBX550.

It would be interesting to know if nuts & bolts stores can get hold of these, some of mine are missing and the M/cycle shop wants silly money!

To fit 1/4 to 1/2 SHCS...

Hot-melt glue, the flexible stuff? Overfill the socket so there's a blob you can grab with pliers when you need to get it out.

Ned Simmons

Maybe some type of grease. Inserting a hex key will push it out of the way, and it's not a major issue if it gets on everything. Holds the dirt, however.

What's the thread engagement in the cast?

When using G2500 which is a low-tensile gray cast iron (25,000psi) or anything up to and including 1020 mild steel, we would use minimum thread depth of twice the nominal thread diameter - always. i.e. 16mm+ of screw engagement for an M8 screw. I never saw a thread get wrecked because of over-torquing a bolt (12.9 metric SHCSs) using this standard, and cheater bars/impact wrenches were the norm there (things coming unscrewed from dies can cause fatalities).

We used a depth of 1.5x the nominal thread diameter for things like soft 4140 and above.

Regards,

Robin

"Tom Gardner" wrote in news:rlehi.18639$ snipped-for-privacy@newssvr11.news.prodigy.net:

Second part first: McMaster sells torque limited T handle allen wrenches. We use these on sensitive screws production must remove often.

The first part: I have seen plastic plugs for SHCS's somewhere...but can't remember where. I've seen both the type that presses in the head of the screw, and the type that press into the CBore. - Might want to check Reid Tool.

Tom , Two things that come across my plate ALL the time are the screws blowing out. As far as freeing them up from stripping out. Heat them, put in a old key that is appropriate in size and give it a good whack with a hammer straight down (hence, the cut-off key otherwise it will tend to cant to one side and round out the head. That usually works fine for any fastener not held down with Locktite. As far as keeping crud out of the recess I have had a lot of luck just dripping candle wax on any that are not exposed to heat. Works like a charm. The Cap-plugs mentioned earlier are a great workaround too but they get costly and FOD can be an issue. Hot Glue usually works best on anything under 200c. I have been migrating a lot of fasteners to Torx and Spline drive for the exact same reason you mention. The other factor is the grade of the hardware you are using. I never, ever cheap out on SHCS for any reason.. If my clients don't like it I usually tell them to expect problems and I will not warranty it. (At $190.00 per hour they tend to listen) Grade 8 or Aircraft is the way to go. I have not had any problems as of date but I'd bet a beer I just jinxed myself by saying so! Torque to yield fasteners are not in the

Hope this helps,

Rob

Fraser Competition Engines Chicago, IL.

Silicone sealer?

In article , Tom Gardner writes

Plasticene or Blu-Tak.

David

Depending on the service these parts are used in, how about ear plugs? Cut them in half, if too long. The "Classic" cylindrical type, not the tapered ones.

Pete Stanaitis

Tom Gardner wrote:

You're stripping 10-24 threads with half-inch engagement by hand? Time to invest in better castings?

Regards,

Robin

The thinnest casting would be 1/2". It seems these machine parts are made of the softest, weakest iron.

For now, use Helicoils.

Mark Rand RTFM

That can't happen, unfortunately. This part, an "Apron" is about $3k from the factory and I'm using them unlike the factory set-up. They are what the rest of the machine seems to be built around so it's a bitch to take down to modify. The next machine to come on line, we will put steel inserts in as we build the machine. Or come up with better fastening strategies.

See:

I'll have to take them apart to put the coils in. I'm not such a great fan of Helicoils unless that's the only option, there are usually better options.