Sorta OT - looking for a firearm manual

"Des Bromilow" wrote in message news:...

Yeah, you'd probably get a better response over in rec.guns or alt.sport.air-guns. You asked here, though, I'll answer here. That should be a "G", not a "6". IIRC, there was a 78G and a 79G, one .22 and one .177. I've got the .22 version. The Daisy version differed in several important respects, as far as I know, there's no parts interchange. Gun Parts has an exploded view in their catalog, the manual has no better detail. My manual is kicking around here somewhere, I haven't seen it since I moved, though. Gun Parts has some drawings online, might be they would have the S&W CO2 pistol's, they also have the last vestiges of spare parts for the things,

I've had one leak, it was at the CO2 cartridge chamber plug on the bottom of the grip. This is one main difference between the original and the Daisy version, the S&W has a completely sealed chamber, Daisy has their usual CO2 cartridge clamp and seals at the puncturing needle on the cartridge end. I've had the S&W maintain pressure for months. You can check for leaks by submerging the bottom of the grip(plug) with a fresh punctured cartridge in there in a bowl of water. Bubbles were readily apparent on mine. You have to look at the sealing surfaces where the plug screws into the grip, this is gently tapered and I suppose if it has a scratch, you're cooked. I got replacement O-rings from S&W when I had my leak, they were still available then, replacing one of those on the outside of the plug fixed the leak. I don't believe normal hardware store butyl O-rings would work, I think CO2 dissolves in them or reacts with them in some way. The ones I received were kind of yellow-white and weren't black like a common O-ring, Viton, maybe. If your leak isn't at the plug, you might submerge the muzzle and see if the valve itself is leaking. There's also an O-ring seal where the valve assembly fits into the CO2 chamber, this might be leaking too. I'd minimize the disassembly if I were you, you might create more leaks than you solve. You can get at the innards, though, by removing the large slotted screws on each side after you pull off the grips. IIRC, you remove the striker spring from the front first, through the adjustment hole. CO2 chamber should be empty when you pull the top off, you'll launch stuff otherwise. Since it's been a long time since these were last made(I bought mine in the early '70s), seals and those type of parts are in limited supply or flat not available. Do be careful pulling parts off, the stuff is mostly die-cast and is easy to damage. Once you find your leak, you might want to shoot some WD-40 onto the areas you submerged to displace the water. Try to keep it off the seals, though.

It was one of the most powerful CO2 pistols available at the time on high power, I've killed rabbits with mine, and I've gotten more than

Stan