Southbend 10" Tailstock Question

I have a South Bend 10 inch lathe, Model 199Y. The tailstock is not original. I have a 10" tailstock casting from E-bay that seems to take
a 9 inch lathe's tailstock quill (1.060) with no slop.
My question concerns the keying of the tailstock quill. The 9 inch tailstock has a key pin in the tailstock casting which is rather obvious. The 10 inch quill has no quill, and no key, but has a key slot. The quill is also slotted. Therefore, at present, I have two keyslots and no key. I can see no obvious way to hold a key in the tailstock casting. While I could invent methods to make these parts work together, I would like to know what an original 10" Southbend tailstock has in the way of capturing the keystock in the keyway. Does the quill carry the key, or does the casting? My guess is that the quill carries the key...but it is only a guess.
Brownnsharp
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Hey BS,
OK, you are correct, in that the quill carries the key. On mine, the actual measurements are:
Quill Diameter    1.0615" (a thou under 1-1/16) Key width    .25 Key proud of Quill .1455" ("Diameter" of quill and key minus quill diameter) Key length    2-1/2" Quill Overall length    5-1/8" Key ends 1/16" short of threaded end Key "shows" at working end of barrel just as quill runs off lead screw. Both ends of key are slightly rounded. No visible means of holding key in the quill cut, but it is very tight. Quill INCH markings start about 3/8" from taper end, and are in 10ths inch from 0 to 1 to 2 plus two tenths over 2" (eg. 2.2" total. 0''''/''''1''''/''''2'' ) Metric marking (well separated from inch marks) are in mm from same 0 point, and are marked at centimetres to just over 5CM (57mm total 0..../....1..../....2..../....3..../....4..../....5..../.. ) and so are therefore juuuuuussst slightly longer than the inch markings. Lead screw is 1/2-10 (Acme??) and uses a 1" long bush brass nut with two (apparently) opposing pins holding it in the quill about half-way along the nut. I forgot to measure the approximate OD of the nut bush. There is a 0- 0.1 inch micrometer dial slip fitted to the quill at the handle. A "standard" MT2 pops loose when the quill has about 3/16" to go before it would start to "hide" inside the bore.
Uses a double cotter to clamp the quill. I did not make any attempt to take the tail-stock "apart", so to speak, to get threads and sizes of the thrust area. I will if it is necessary for you to get more info.
Hope this helps. Take care.
Brian Lawson, Bothwell, Ontario. XXXXXXXXXXXXXX
On 15 Oct 2004 19:39:34 -0700, snipped-for-privacy@wt.net (brownnsharp) wrote:

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Thanks Brian, tis more than enough to enable me to procede. I think I will build a new quill from scratch. Have done it before, for a friend's antique lathe. A little tedious to get the concentricity I want, but not rocket science.
Brownnsharp
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