Spindle repair

Now, THAT'S a good idea. I occasionaly grind a pound. Mine happens when I'm overdue for a shot of air tool oil in the airlines to the unit.

Karl

Reply to
Karl Townsend
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A grasping mechanism.

Ill see what I can find for you.

One type..using balls

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Best I could find in a couple minutes searching. Ill pull a page out of a manual and scan it maybe tomorrow if you still dont get it.

Gunner

Reply to
Gunner Asch

Or visa versa.

Reply to
Gunner Asch

That pretty much reiterates the same info, Pete. What my grokker is crying out for is the method of actuation. What does the linear action work on? Does a tapered cone come down onto the retention feet, or do(es) the feet/foot pivot?

And what actuates the mechanical portion of that? Pneumatics, hydraulics, what? Thanks in advance.

Reply to
Larry Jaques

OK, so a pressure on the top end of the drawbar compresses the springs and gives room for the balls to float and release the retention knob? By Jove, I think I've got it!

If you find exploded diagrams of other methods, I'd love to see them, too.

Reply to
Larry Jaques

Has anyone ever found an automatic oiler which works as stated?

Reply to
Larry Jaques

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Reply to
Pete C.

Yeah, I think Gunner linked the image from there. It helped a lot.

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Reply to
Larry Jaques

Glad I could help. Eric

Reply to
etpm

snipped-for-privacy@whidbey.com fired this volley in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:

Explain more about that, Eric. Does it simply detect the distance the spines have engaged, or is there some sort of radial alignment detection?

Lloyd

Reply to
Lloyd E. Sponenburgh

Actually...yes. Machine tools are often home to 2-5 of them. From the Bjur to many other flavors. That being said..there are many different applications and lubers for each application

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You most certainly dont want to put a luber on the output from the air tank. That means every air line in the house gets oil. Not good when using air to spritz the dust out of a TV or control box. Same with using air hoses on the end of a luber. That air hose quickly becomes oil soaked and will occasionally spit out a blob of oil..not something you want to happen when you are spray painting your restored car.

The best way is to put a luber on its own stub and use it for nothing whatsoever but for the machine its supposed to be lubing..with its very own dedicated air hose.

This is the brand I use mostly..but there are others out there equally as good.

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That being said...there is absolutely nothing wrong when using air tools..with simply squirting some air tool oil (just about an oil) into the input fitting once or twice a day if you are using it throughout the day.

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My favorite of course is Marvel Mystery Oil. A quart is about $9 and will last freaking YEARS.

Gunner

Reply to
Gunner Asch

I don't mean pressurized oil, I meant oil-misted compressed air.

That's the only place I'd use one, at the machine input. But I've never trusted the FRLs, even from the well-known & exotic HFT. ;) Except for removing moisture and particulates.

That's precisely what I have always done, MMO. It has as pleasant a smell as Hoppe's #9.

Reply to
Larry Jaques

I tried to convince my better half to use Hoppe's #9 for her perfume... Told here there is nothing that would turn a man on more than smelling #9 on a lady.

I'm with you, those little inline air oilers don't work for shit. Now, the hardinge inline oiler on my CHNC hasn't failed yet - its 30 years old.

Karl

Reply to
Karl Townsend

Indeed. Bjur also makes misters.

Reply to
Gunner Asch

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