Steel or Cast Iron?

Hi All,
I'd like to get the group's thoughts on a slightly off-topic question.
I'm in the process of rebuilding my small tractor. I have installed a
new engine that came with a very nice muffler. The muffler needs to rotate around a bit, to clear the front loader gear.
I have cut off the muffler to cylinder head flange, with the idea of rotating it and having it welded at the muffler shop.
The original flange is the simple two bolt "oval" style common on small engines and it is made out of cast iron. I think that making a new flange that is thicker, hence sturdier, and nicer looking would be just the ticket.
Question: Can I use mild steel for the new flange? Will it rust out quickly or cause other problems?
Thanks for your time,
Steven Harris Everson, WA
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Steven wrote:

I would use steel. Cast iron is cheaper for shapes if you are talking quantity (10,000?). That's why the original was cast.
Ted
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I was with you right up to: "and nicer looking". Anything that works well has it's own beauty.

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It will work just fine. I made a header for one of my Cub Cadets out of a Suzuki four stroke bike exhaust, and made my flange. Made the super-tight bend by cutting the pipe every 1/8", bending, then tigging it up as I went. Ground it smooth.It came out pretty nice, and is a whole lot quieter.
RJ

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Thanks guys!
I'll just stop this milling around and forge ahead...
Steven

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On 30 Jan 2004 18:26:31 -0800, snipped-for-privacy@nas.com (Steven) vaguely proposed a theory ......and in reply I say!:

Lathing the rest of us to .... **************************************************** sorry remove ns from my header address to reply via email
Spike....Spike? Hello?
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I would suspect that if you make it from steel that you may only get 15-20 years out of it before it rusts away. ;-) lg no neat sig line

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Go ahead and make it out of steel. Stick the tube THROUGH the flange, weld on the ENGINE side, then grind it smooth.
Steven wrote:

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Roy J wrote:

Hmmmm. Why?
Ted
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Much easier to get a good weld if you do it on the inside. If you can roll a nice bead between .065" tube and 1/4" plate (not easy to avoid burning holes!), then the outside is preferred. This way, the warpage tends to pull the ears away from the engine block, helps to seal things better.
Ted Edwards wrote:

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In some cases the weld bead will interfere with the bolts on an external flange weld.
RJ

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Roy,
I'm going to have the muffler shop apply the weld on the muffler side, as that is what they prefer. Should I also weld up the engine side too?
What paint/coating should I follow up with, if any?
-=- Steven Harris

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I once replaced a Y-pipe on a Ford Thunderbird. I painted the new one with hi-temp paint like you'd use on a barbecue. Seven years later it hadn't rusted. Many people told me it couldn't be done. YMMV.
Grant
Steven wrote:

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