Studs on an axle

On cars, I always pulled them in. I would knock out the old with three pound short handled sledge and then put in the new ones, aligning the grooves, and then with the lug nuts put on backwards, I would pull them into place with a four way lug wrench. Don't have to pull any axles or anything like that.

Dick

I've done that, and using a cheater pipe, I have put all the pressure on the lug wrench I think the threads will take.

Steve

TOP POSTING CORRECTED!

Had the problem on my pickup, but the lug nuts have blind holes and can't be used backwards. So, I took a piece of scrap metal, drilled it and put a countersink in it with a large ball end mill so it would accomodate the lug nut. Worked great.

As Dick pointed out, you should align the grooves (easy).

Jerry

Since you brought up the issue -- if you're going to post something new way down at the bottom where most of us won't see it, learn to cut the quoted text that we've already read so you just leave enough for context.

Jerry Foster wrote:

I overhauled a small DiAcro bench shear recently. It had two press-fit round steel shafts that acted as the guides for the top blade.

I found that I was unable to separate the shafts from the base casting using a sledge hammer no matter how hard I pounded the hammer. Eventually I made a fixture that would fit the shear and work on my press. Using the press the pieces separated easily.

The reverse was also a job for the press. I tried to beat the pieces back together but it was impossible. So after making another fixture for the press, the shear is now back together again and working very nicely.

Gary

You the guy who bought the welder from me, I delivered it one night?

How do you like it?

Gunner

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(First, apologies to Netnanny Mike if I am doing this incorrectly.)

I foresee a hydraulic press in my immediate future. I've done my last pounding that should be pressing. Sometimes, pounding is the thing to do, but I think this case calls for a press, as in your circumstance. Nothing beats the right tool for the job, and makes a half hour ordeal a one minute cruise.

Steve

I've used that method quite a few times on wheel studs. Just remember to recheck the wheel nuts after a few miles as the new studs might seat a little further with the vehicle running. The other thing to notice is that the back face of wheel nuts is often far from flat as it's never meant to be used. Take the worst of the sharp high spots off with a file or face them in a lathe to make them seat better. You will probably need a few packing washers to cover any unthreaded part of the wheel studs when pulling them in.

John

Roy, were you the Roy that had the frugalmachinist website? and if so, please tell me you archived it somewhere... patlandy snipped-for-privacy@verizon.net

I don't think that he is that Roy, but whether or not, here is the frugalmachinist archive: