T-Post Bracing with Diagonal Member

Hi,
I'm putting in a short (60 foot) length of welded wire fence (4' tall), using t-posts every 8 feet, and using a braced t-post at each end. This
isn't for farm animals, nor will it have any great load place on it, so it doesn't have to be done with the standard concern for rigidity (FLW, I know).
(ascii art follows, not to scale):
|\ | | \ | \ | \ | \ | \ | Fence Pull Direction---- | \ | / | \ | / | \|
While it would be normal to use a wooden post for stability at the end, I need to use a t-post at each end, which I will brace with a diagonal t-post to an adjacent vertical post (I'm thinking three feet from the end post, and using a five foot t-post for the diagonal - 3,4,5).
They sell a nifty product for connecting the t-post brace to the vertical posts, company called "wedgeloc", but that'd be about 25 bucks extra, and I'm not biting.
I am, instead, considering just drilling a 1/4" hole in the top of one and the bottom of the other t-post, and using a 1/4" hex head bolt to fasten the diagonal brace (which will also be drilled out with a 1/4" hole) , but I'm thinking there has to be a slightly more clever way of doing this.
Given this situation, how would you connect the diagonal brace between the two vertical members? I have lots of angle iron and a buzzbox, if need be.
Thanks,
Jon
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I've built WAY too much fence in my day. You got the diagonal backward. It should be in tension, not compression. Then the brace piece goes horizontal. Use a pair of wires for the diagonal, just a loop around both posts. Then you can put a stick in the middle and wind to tighten. Pull on it till square and tight. This is WAY stonger.
| /| | ----------------------/--| | / | | / | ===> | / | | / |
Karl
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I didn't mention the reason. design 1 has lifting force on the end post and will pull it out of the ground. design 2 has a down force on post 2. No problem.
karl
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Karl Townsend wrote:

Thanks Karl, that makes a load more sense, and the wire is cheap enough. I'll go with it.
How would you attach the horizontal t-post rail to the vertical members, though? Drill and use a bolt?
Jon
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You just need to hold it in place. Lots of ways. I'd want to do the work in the shop, not in the field. How about weld a short piece of pipe large enough to make a socket for the cross member on each post?
Karl
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I wonder if T rail is kind of like bed frames for welding...not great. I would hacksaw the side flange of the horizontal brace to get a flat joint with the two posts amd run a bolt through. We've used 10/24 stove bolts in the past. It doesn't take much. Definately use the wire windlass.
John
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John Hall wrote:

Thanks John, that's a good idea.
BTW, what do you mean by a "wire windlass"?
Jon
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That's what Karl described: the diagonal wires twisted together with a stick in the middle - properly called a spanish windlass- lets you pull everything up tight.
John
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On Mon, 13 Jul 2009 12:49:49 -0700, the infamous "Jon Danniken"

You really want to use chain link tubing for the ends/braces.

They're absolute CRAP. Good for you for not biting. I used them on the neighbor's fence and was thoroughly fed up with them within an hour that day. They're about as satisfying as using Thompson's Water Seal on a deck.

There's not enough t-member to drill and still have room spin the nuts, is there?

Buzzed angle iron is probably the better way to go if you're not using tubing.
-- Mistrust the man who finds everything good, the man who finds everything evil, and still more the man who is indifferent to everything. -- Johann K. Lavater
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