There are a couple.
One is strictly a lube, it's basically water with some surfactant and
water soluble oil.
Then you have actual tire bead sealant. It is basically a thin rubber
cement with carbon black as a thickening agent.
The first is used to slip the tire over the rim easier and reduce the
possibility of bead damage.
The second is used on pitted aluminum or steel rims to seal the pits and
If you only have a small tire then you could simply use a small amount
of rubber cement around the bead. It will do the same thing as the tire
Advance, Parts Plus, NAPA all carry it.
Generally, it's just a soapy water mix for lubing the tire onto the
rim. Once it evaporates, it's gone. There is no extra sealing
To seal from the inside, install some of the green slime.
Remember, in an emergency, dial 1911.
Second on the Slime. I've got a tubeless tire on one dolly that does
exactly that, a short shot of the slime fixed it up.
I've only ever seen them use a swab with some tire soap on it when
mounting my tires, comes in a bucket. Only for seating beads and
keeping the rubber from tearing when stretching it over the rims.
Lubricant only, no sealing properties.
Now if you've got a tube in your tire, the slime may just make a mess,
you'd have to patch the tube.
On Tue, 15 Feb 2011 14:55:08 -0800 (PST), email@example.com wrote:
The thing I can't understand, is why manufacturers insist on mounting
tubeless tires on everything such as wheelbarrows, snowblowers and
other low speed equipment. I can understand that tubless tires run
cooler at high speed but on a wheelbarrow? snowblower? After ten
years, the tires are checked and the rims are rusted, so the owner
gets to install the tube that should have been there in the first
place. The lawn tractor with low pressure tires does a sharp turn and
catches some grass stems or twigs in the bead and developes a slow
leak (I, personaly, traced this down and fixed it - the lady was using
a bicycle pump every time she went to cut the grass).
What is there for not installing tube type tires on low speed
On Thu, 17 Feb 2011 13:35:23 -0500, "Michael A. Terrell"
There are two completely different kinds of "tire bead goop". One is
the soap or glycerine lube (RuGlyde), which has minimal sealing
qualities - the other is the black latex "bead sealer" that does a
reasonable job of sealing a bead if it is clean and not too badly
As for tubeless low speed tires, it all comes down to PRICE.
The majority of us North Americans are notoriously CHEEP critters, and
the manufacturers won;t spend a penny more than necessary to get their
product out the door, and, hopefully, through warranty.
Re-seating a wheelbarrow tire is simple. Spray some butane into the
tire and throw a match at it. It'll pop right on, 9.9 times out of 10.
But putting in a tube is a much better solution. A "slimed" or self
sealing tube is almost a requirement in misquite or cactus country,
and a kevlar liner works wonders too. Wreaks havoc with balance, so
not so good on high speed tires.
Those needles would puncture large truck tires as well. Some were
just shy of 2" long, and they could go through the tread or the
The last flat I had on a wheelbarrow had already had a tube
installed, but the old tire was so dried out that I couldn't get the bad
tube out. I had two bad tires on a garden cart with 3/4" hubs. I made a
new 5/8" axle and slipped it into a piece of thin walled pipe to make it
fit the old mounts. They wanted more for a pair of new tires than a new
You can't fix stupid. You can't even put a band-aid on it, because it's
And one style of cactus which was around where I grew up I
called "watch-out cactus" because the needles had a dry husk on them,
and when you pulled a needle out of self, the husk stayed around nearly
forever in your skin. The husk could provide a continuing path of air
through the walls of the tire and tube.
If anyone really knows the name of that cactus (insanely
branching and re-branching bits about the diameter of a pencil or a bit
fatter), I would love to have identification. This was in South Texas,
sort of between San Antonio and Laredo, FWIW.
On Fri, 18 Feb 2011 21:31:48 -0600, aasberry wrote:
DoN, among those links that I looked at, the bottom 2 pictures
appear to have lots of thin branching parts. However, the range
map seems to show only a small patch near Sanderson or Marathon
(north of Big Bend) so there may be better matches for what you
remember. Eg, range of Pencil Cactus seems to include Laredo:
it doesn't seem to do much branching).
Way too low. Think at least shoulder height, where you could
accidentally brush against it if you were not observant. :-) It would go
about four or five inches, then branch -- repeatedly. I don't remember
the parts near the ground being fatter -- but they really must have been
to support the load of all the branches.
Nope! Not at all. and the thorns should have a length about
three to four times the diameter of the stem.
I think that I'll try to contact him, and suggest that he visit
LaSalle county. It *may* be that this never develops photogenic
blossoms, which seems to be the primary focus of the web site. :-) I
know that *I* never saw the blossoms -- but there were times of the year
when I was less likely to go into the place where I knew some were.
O.K. I just sent him an e-mail. We'll see what comes of it.
Hmm -- a wonderful resource, but I've checked most of them now
with little luck. The closest is:
Opuntia (Cylindropuntia) imbricata (Tree Cholla)
but the stems are too fat, and it is shown only well North of where I
Most of the cacti on the left-hand side of the page were low
balls and pincushions. This grew at least five feet high. Most of what
gets near that high is the Prickley pear varieties.
The interesting thing is that none of the photos which I noticed
were taken in LaSalle County, which is where these were. An
un-documented species, perhaps? (Maybe he has just not visited LaSalle
County yet. :-)
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