Interesting. From what I see -- the choice of crimper is a function of the size of the terminals, and the wires proper for those terminals.
For example, with the AMP crimp terminals, all sizes from 28 Ga to 10 Ga are handled with either ratcheting hand-held tools -- or automated crimpers fed terminals on tape from spools.
All sizes from 8 Ga through 4/0 use hydraulic tools. The 8 Ga through 2 Ga may be done with hand held and pumped hydraulic tools with the dies integral with the tool -- or with a hydraulic slave cylinder powered by either a foot pump or an electric pump. The ones from 1/0 through 4/0 are only crimped in larger hydraulic crimp heads which are only powered by the foot pump or the electric pump. Yes, I have examples of all of these except the production tooling for the tape-fed terminals.
I don't have the proper tooling for crimping the Power-Pole terminals which your web site shows -- but would like to add it to my collection. :-)
It may also be that you don't get it hot enough to cause the microcracks in the first place. Cooling to keep your hands from burning probably requires more frequent dipping than might otherwise be done by someone with a holder and working just to keep the HSS from turning blue. :-)
Perhaps one at the grinding rates and production rates in industrial production -- which is mostly done with inserts these days anyway -- for cutting rates which even HSS can't handle. :-)
When the HSS bit gets too hot to hold I wait about 10 seconds for the heat to spread out before quenching it. So far I haven't seen any part of the edge chip off. Gunner's idea to use a drill chuck is fine for roughing, but I have to hold the bit directly in my fingers to be able to feel how evenly it is contacting the wheel, to grind one unfaceted hollow face that's easy to stone when it dulls.
formatting link
The hand Anderson crimper is like a bolt cutter, with dies shaped like ( ), not much different from the smaller Amp solderless terminal crimper. A wire rope ferrule swaging tool might work for non-critical jobs, or you can solder them. The powered one (Tyco, not Anderson) has four points closed inward by a cam.
You can use the upsidedown holder from the front, by running the lathe in reverse. I have been doing exactly that on my 5914.
My current holder is a Dorian D30BXA-7-71C, which takes blades cutting a
2mm wide slot. This is a bit small, and chatters on the larger diameter workpieces. I will also be getting a D30BXA-71-26, which takes larger blades. In both cases, one can use a slot grip blade or a HSS T-blade.
Dorian made these holders to be reversible, and they work just fine. These holders are on page P-22 of the Dorian catalog.
(well ... actually I didn't write what follows, which appears to be all new text. :-)
O.K.
Hmm ... except that the Anderson perhaps does not have the ratchet assembly to assure a complete crimp before release? And the amp crimpers (at least the ratchet controlled -- not the "field repair" ones which *are* small diameter bolt shears -- will typically have a single or a double dot in the die faces to mark whether it was done by the proper size crimper for the particular terminal in question.
And this shape is for the pre-insulated ones, not for the bare ones. The AMP crimpers also includes a separate crimper to crimp the wire insulation grip -- to one of three sizes depending on the thickness of the insulation involved. (This secondary crimp is the "Diamond Grip" part of the P.I.D.G. designation)
The powered one for *which* terminals? the four-point design is common on smaller machined uninsulated terminals -- usually for insertion in multi-pin connectors. Daniels is one maker of such crimpers for smaller terminals. Amphenol for others. And often for the same connectors, there are pins formed from sheet metal, with a "Type F" crimp. Two pairs of flags -- the front ones bent to a double 'U' around the wire, and the rear ones bent to a circle around the insulation.
The wire crimp looks like this (viewed with a fixed-pitch font like Courier):
/) \) And for the insulation support:
_ / \ Left side is closed, right side is slightly open \_/
The powered ones for the PIDG style ring, fork, or press-on terminals from 8 Ga up through 4/0 use the same shape as the smaller PDIG ones -- but with the actual size embossed in the plastic of the insulation instead of the dots used by the smaller ones up to 10 Ga.
Powered ones for insertable terminals (probably the PowerPole ones would qualify) would be likely to use the four indentor design, but for pre-insulated terminals, it is unlikely.
Part of the problem with crimp terminals is that there are so many choices, and thus places to go wrong.
But I would never solder a pre-insulated terminal onto the wire.
As long as the lathe does not have a threaded nose. My 5814 came with a 2-1/4x8 threaded nose, but now has a L-00 (probably from a
5900 series machine) so I could do this.
Thanks. If I decide that I can afford that, I will try them. But I get rather good behavior from the right-side-up one in the BXA sized holders anyway.
Yes, it would be ugly with a threaded spindle nose. Picture machinist being chased around the shop by a 75# chuck.
But I knew that you had changed to a L00 nose, which is what my 5914 has.
By the way, the chief consequence of the chatter is to dull the carbide insert, making cutoff harder to do. The dulling was quite abrupt. The insert doesn't look different, but one can feel and see with a magnifier that the cutting lip is blunted.
The chatter is the same, reversed or not, and is most likely caused by using a blade that isn't quite stiff enough for the diameter of the work being cut off. Dulling did not happen with 1" diameter 6061 on
1018/12L14 stock, but did happen with 3" diameter 6061 stock.
Evilbay? It would be hard to hurt one of these holders.
I do that too, now that the lathe has been tightened up. But I can be more aggressive with the reversed setup operated manually, with feel.
Right -- but I had to mention it for others who might be reading this -- just in case. :-)
O.K. I can believe that.
Hmm ... surface speed sensitive. What RPM with the 3" diameter stock?
I recently did some parting of 3" diameter 12L14 with no problems.
Back when I was trying to part off some 6" diameter 12L14, I just did not have a long enough parting tool extension -- and the infamous $200.00 H/V bandsaw can't handle that diameter either.
I finally had to bore it out to reach the depth which the parting tool could reach. Luckily, I *needed* that large hole anyway. :-)
There is that -- but I've stopped buying much there since they started forcing their sellers into accepting only PayPal. I just don't like the idea of being forced into using a payment service which is also owned by eBay. :-)
In the serious computer stuff (parts for SPARC based Sun workstations), they usually are also set up to handle credit cards.
O.K. I usually go for power feed to free hands for squiring in cutting lube.
Probably too fast, but I recall ~600 RPM, as slow as my 5914 will go until I rebuild the upper hydraulics. I have the seals kit from Clausing, but have not yet installed it. Messy job.
Using a HSS T-blade if I recall. How big?
I have not tried anything larger than a 6061 aluminum tube 4" in diameter, held in the 3-jaw chuck. The walls are about 3/8" thick. This worked, yielded a 0.007" taper in 8". It will be a few more trials before I conclude that this is the inherent taper.
The reason to use a tube was to reduce the weight pulling the piece downwards in the chuck.
I think I'll try the taper experiment using a 1" diameter steel or aluminum rod held in a 5C collet chuck.
Why is that a problem? I've had no problem. Not that I buy that much.
BXA-7; I have one too. It works now that the lathe is tight.
I do that too, but I'm more comfortable doing it manually when I'm being aggressive, although I've now done it enough to be comfortable with a faster powered feed.
PolyTech Forum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.