BH600G + inverter advise please.

Hello all, The lathe has sat in the garage since 2006 mocking me. It's a long story, but at last the time has arrived to get the inverter
connected, a Newton Tesla Mitsubishi E500 supplied with their 3ph motor.. Is there anything I should be aware of when connecting? Has anyone added an inverter to their Warco lathe? I do like the lever operated forward/reverse feature on the lathe. Can this still be incorporated, or am I being too ambitious? I've mounted the inverter control module on the front of the gear train cover, as this makes it nicely to hand, with the inverter unit on the wall behind the lathe, with free air circulation. TS mill connected, but it will need a clean & lubricating before I switch it on. Geoff - actually getting into the workshop at last :-)
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 22/01/2012 17:32, address snipped-for-privacy@invalid.invalid wrote:

I've added an E500 inverter to my Chester lathe. I replaced the 1ph motor with a 220v 3ph and modified the wiring so as to be able to use all the original controls and switches. The only difference in using the lathe is that there is now a speed knob too. Contact me offline if you would a copy of the wiring diagram; Warco lathes are virtually the same as Chester.
--
Regards, Gary Wooding
(To reply by email, change gug to goog in my address)
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Snip

Thanks Gary, email sent. Geoff
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Thanks for the info Gary. Very helpful. For now I've connected the lathe to the VFD module, bypassing the lathe's control box, just to get it running to see how I get on with using the remote module. Being old school, I'm a little surprised that the electronics in the VFD can handle the motor currents. 'Old fashioned' contactors are what I'm used to, not these newfangled ity bitty pieces of silicone :-) Heavens, what next! Not having used the forward/reverse lever, I have no idea how it compares with the remote module. My first lathe, an Emco V10P, really was a pita with its buttons placed horizontally on top of the headstock above the motor. Just need to put oil in the headstock now, switch everything on and wait for the spatks/boom :-) Anyone come up with an easy way to get oil into the headstock bearings via the the two oil holes, that are buried fairly deep down? Brass tube extensions, or just old faithful oil gun with flexible spout? Regards Geoff
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 24/01/2012 12:20, address snipped-for-privacy@invalid.invalid wrote:

Hi Geoff, From the few photos I've found it appears that the BH600G, like my lathe, has a forward/reverse lever on the apron that operates a switch that is housed on the headstock.
Before the conversion, the method of use was: Switch the power on at the mains; the white "power" lamp illuminates but the F/R (Forward/Reverse) switch does nothing. Press the Power/Start button on the headstock panel; a relay energises and the green lamp in the Power/Start button illuminates. The F/R switch is now operational, and I can start using the lathe.
After the conversion, all works exactly as before, but the new speed knob controls the speed of the motor.
I got the impression from your original post that you wanted to convert your lathe in a similar way; everything working as before, but with the addition of a speed control knob.
From your latest post it would appear that you have also obtained the Newton Tesla control module with the built-in F/R switch and speed knob. Am I right? To use the lathe's F/R lever you need to forget the remote module and connect the inverter similar to how I've done mine. I'm not aware that the remote module contains anything apart from the F/R switch and speed knob. If it has a NVR facility then it simply exploits the inverter's built-in feature - I've used the lathe's control circuitry on mine.
--
Regards, Gary Wooding
(To reply by email, change gug to goog in my address)
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

I have only recently bought one of the last BH600G's from Warco and at some time in the future hope to convert to an inverter drive. I would be very obliged if you could let me know how you wired yours.
I am in the process of building a screwcutting alternative clutch for the lathe designed by Graham Meek following joint discussions on this as I think it will be a great improvement. Whilst making some of the gears I am finding the gear train noise quite intrusive and with the big 120/127 gear having holes in it there is a 'ring' when the gears are meshed. have you discovered any method of getting these gears to run quietly? I use paper to set the mesh gap and have tried some 'sticky' oil which helps but not best result.
Finally, how do find the lathe and what improvements do you think are worth making? I have re-scraped the cross and top slides but apart from general clean-up that is it so far.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Hello Gary,
Sorry for taking so long to reply, but my ng program is giving me an error message about not being able to post. %# software.
The F/R lever on the BH600 is as yours. One thing I never did when I first got the lathe was try it, so I have no idea how the controls work, or how I would get on with the F/R lever. How do you find yours in operation?
Yes, I do have the remote module for the VFD, and this does have F/R, stop/Start, Jog and speed control features, so it would appear that I'm not thinking this through properly, but that wouldn't surprise me right now :-)
Sorted out how to get oil into the headstock bearings - I used two lengths of 10mm brass tube, slit at one end and hammered into the holes, and a silicone plug in each.
The factory fitted rubber bungs where useless and starting to perish, so had to be replaced.
I also used one of the existing bracket support holes, for the chuck shield, to bolt a steel brace inside the headstock to keep that heavy cover open, with a dimple in the cover for the bar to fit in. Quick and simple for once.
I wonder how many fingers/hands have been mangled with that cover coming down on them?
Geoff - Norfolk
--
OuBallie
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 26/01/2012 14:46, OuBallie wrote:

I find it far more convenient to be able to start/stop the motor from the apron rather than reaching across to access to headstock. That's why I decided to make sure it was still operative with the VFD.

I found the chuck guard obtrusive so I removed it.

--
Regards, Gary Wooding
(To reply by email, change gug to goog in my address)
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 25/01/2012 17:17, ghowe wrote:

I sent the details to your email address - I hope it's valid; if not, please send me your real address.
--
Regards, Gary Wooding
(To reply by email, change gug to goog in my address)
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Polytechforum.com is a website by engineers for engineers. It is not affiliated with any of manufacturers or vendors discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.